Inexperienced feller looking for advice.

[slowp]

Accessories:

I leave too thick of hinges. I guess.

The most important accessory:

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[RandyMac]

Accessories?

 

[GASoline71]

Here are some stump shots from a while back... I believe these were in the 24" to 30" range.

You guys use those funny lookin' notch thingies where you cut about your gunnin' cut.

Gary

 

[Gologit]

You didn't have to sugar coat it. I've got thick skin. :msp_thumbup:

I've read plenty of posts here to know some of the pro guys have zero tolerance for ignorant firewood cutters like me. But then again, there are many guys here willing to help out a guy like me and to them, I say thank you.

To you, I say thank you for the safe wishes.

See, I told you there'd be a little flak. But there's some good advice here, too. Most of the guys (and gal) that post on here are experienced and a lot of them make their living with a saw. They'll whack you around a little, kinda like an initiation, but if you truly want to learn falling this is a good place to start.

And we don't consider firewood cutters to be ignorant and we don't look down on them. Well, not all of them anyway. We've had a few who wandered in here, asked our advice, and then argued with us. Boy, did that get ugly.

Stick around, ask questions, enjoy.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Thanks to all who have contributed. I was lead to believe the notch should be a lot deeper than ~1/4 the way into the face of the tree. As you can probably tell in my pictures, I cut mine atleast 1/2 the way through.

Is that so a deeper backcut gives a wedge more leverage on the tree or just because it is safer to have that much more wood holding the tree stable while the backcut is performed?

Hey Hammer you got a laugh out of me! Holy #### you're a Cash fan?

Early one morning while makin the rounds, I took a shot of cocaine and I shot my woman down. I went right home and I went to bed. I stuck that lovin 44 beneath my head.

Got up next mornin and I grabbed that gun, took a shot of cocain and away I run...

HUGE Cash fan.

See, I told you there'd be a little flak. But there's some good advice here, too. Most of the guys (and gal) that post on here are experienced and a lot of them make their living with a saw. They'll whack you around a little, kinda like an initiation, but if you truly want to learn falling this is a good place to start.

And we don't consider firewood cutters to be ignorant and we don't look down on them. Well, not all of them anyway. We've had a few who wandered in here, asked our advice, and then argued with us. Boy, did that get ugly.

Stick around, ask questions, enjoy.

A little flak, but I can handle it.

I'm smart enough to know not to argue with folks I'm trying to learn from. I'm quite open-minded.

 

[PA Plumber]

You guys use those funny lookin' notch thingies where you cut about your gunnin' cut.

Gary

Yep. I tried a Humboldt once. It was on a slope.

That tree went about 20' to the left of where I wanted it and shot 1/2 way down the ridge.

Scared the pants off of me and ruined a perfectly good Chestnut Oak tree in the process.

I'll stick with a conventional notch until I learn how to fell trees!

 

[Billy_Bob]

...I was lead to believe the notch should be a lot deeper than ~1/4 the way into the face of the tree. As you can probably tell in my pictures, I cut mine atleast 1/2 the way through.

Is that so a deeper backcut gives a wedge more leverage on the tree or just because it is safer to have that much more wood holding the tree stable while the backcut is performed?

I've always read the notch should be about 1/3 the way...

Anyway the general idea is that as the tree falls, the hinge will remain connected from the stump to the tree. And keep the tree in control as it falls. (Keep it from flying up and whacking you in the face for example!)

 

[RandyMac]

1/3 minimum more if needed. I'm from the deep and steep facecut school.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Thanks to all who have contributed. I was lead to believe the notch should be a lot deeper than ~1/4 the way into the face of the tree. As you can probably tell in my pictures, I cut mine atleast 1/2 the way through.

Is that so a deeper backcut gives a wedge more leverage on the tree or just because it is safer to have that much more wood holding the tree stable while the backcut is performed?



Got up next mornin and I grabbed that gun, took a shot of cocain and away I run...

HUGE Cash fan.



A little flak, but I can handle it.

I'm smart enough to know not to argue with folks I'm trying to learn from. I'm quite open-minded.

Notching breakdown.

Corners
-The corners of the notch gun or aim the tree.

Openness
-The openness of the notch will tell you at what point in the fall you want the tree to release from the stump. This happens when the notch closes and breaks the hingwood in a leveraging fashion. There is a major preasure spike here that occurs at the hinge, if the backcut is not progressed enough at this point a "barber chair" can result. This is the moment of truth for the faller and takes experience and judgement to execute perfectly.

Depth
-The depth of the notch will setup the hinge width and also determine how much tension or compression the backcut will be put under. 1/3 diameter or 80% hinge are the general rule here. The deeper you notch the more tension or compression you are putting the back cut under. I'll break this down further
- 1/3 notch standard
- 1/4 or less on leaners (headleaners or backleaners)
- Up to 1/2 on balanced trees, especially usefull in spars


Backcut breakdown.

-The height the backcut is made above the apex of the notch is called stump shot. This is a ledge that will help keep a tree on the stump as it may want to kick back at some point in the fall especially if the falling tree strikes another tree. Stumpshot can create hinge height, which will add some strength or holding power to the hinge.


Hinge breakdown.

Hinge height
-Created by the amount of stumpshot used

Hinge width
-Created by the depth of the notch or wherever the notch progression stops on a tree that is out of round.

Hinge thickness
-Created by the progression of the backcut.


These are some of the in's and out's of general tree felling.

 

[indiansprings]

I'd compare what your doing to what I would consider fence row cleaning in my area. Beside the falling advice that you have received, I'll give you my thoughts on how your attacking the job at hand.
I would refrain from getting a **** load down. It makes it tough to operate, trip hazards, limbs etc. I'm from the school of dropping one or two and cutting it up and piling my brush, cutting one or two more and doing the same thing. It keeps it from getting like a giant version of a game of pick of sticks. get too much down and it just becomes a tough area to work in. Just my take on it, I've done a lot of this type work, imho your going to be working your hiney off for that wood. Be safe/be careful and good cutting.
A lot of good advice has been given on felling, pay attention to what Randy Mac says, and you won't go wrong.

 

[RandyMac]

Notching breakdown.

Corners
-The corners of the notch gun or aim the tree.

Openness
-The openness of the notch will tell you at what point in the fall you want the tree to release from the stump. This happens when the notch closes and breaks the hingwood in a leveraging fashion. There is a major preasure spike here that occurs at the hinge, if the backcut is not progressed enough at this point a "barber chair" can result. This is the moment of truth for the faller and takes experience and judgement to execute perfectly.

Depth
-The depth of the notch will setup the hinge width and also determine how much tension or compression the backcut will be put under. 1/3 diameter or 80% hinge are the general rule here. The deeper you notch the more tension or compression you are putting the back cut under. I'll break this down further
- 1/3 notch standard
- 1/4 or less on leaners (headleaners or backleaners)
- Up to 1/2 on balanced trees, especially usefull in spars


Backcut breakdown.

-The height the backcut is made above the apex of the notch is called stump shot. This is a ledge that will help keep a tree on the stump as it may want to kick back at some point in the fall especially if the falling tree strikes another tree. Stumpshot can create hinge height, which will add some strength or holding power to the hinge.


Hinge breakdown.

Hinge height
-Created by the amount of stumpshot used

Hinge width
-Created by the depth of the notch or wherever the notch progression stops on a tree that is out of round.

Hinge thickness
-Created by the progression of the backcut.


These are some of the in's and out's of general tree felling.

CC&P'ed from a Gov manual?

A 1/4 or less on a headleaner? Oh my, barberchair special.

 

[Nailsbeats]

CC&P'ed from a Gov manual?

A 1/4 or less on a headleaner? Oh my, barberchair special.

No, I wrote it myself.

The 1/4 would usually be accompanied by a bored back cut, thus eliminating the need to race and the chance of a barberchair granted you didn't leave to heavy of a hinge.

If you can get it in deeper and still keep up with the backcut, then by all means.

 

[RandyMac]

oh, got it, bored.

 

[bitzer]

CC&P'ed from a Gov manual?

A 1/4 or less on a headleaner? Oh my, barberchair special.

Thats exactly what I thought. I gun til it moves. You want to get rid of that compression wood. Then bore out some tension wood if its leaning that hard. Thats were watching the top as you're sawing and doing a little reaming in the process to keep the kerf from sitting right away takes a little practice. Correct assesment Macdaddy or shall I call you Mr. Reno? How is Janet these days?



Have fun mr. beats when you're boring behind that 1/4 face and the tree sits down HARD just as you pop through the other side.


Depth/style of face and all the little cuts and pieces removed all have their place in a variety of situations. That BS about it has to be this way and that. Its BS.

It sure is fun watching the woodwork come alive on these type of threads.

 

[forestryworks]

You should always cut until the tree commits.

Who the hell cuts a 2" holding wood strip on EVERY single tree and then stands there and scratches their ass wondering why the tree is skybound? Oh, the GOL fellas.

Cut 'er up til she goes then use the escape route.

 

[madhatte]

On the one hand, we ARE talking about chainsaws. On the other hand, we ARE talking about chainsaws.

There's more than one way to do things. Some are just stupider than others. Listen to how the tree wants to do things. Take its suggestions, then adjust accordingly.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Thats exactly what I thought. I gun til it moves. You want to get rid of that compression wood. Then bore out some tension wood if its leaning that hard. Thats were watching the top as you're sawing and doing a little reaming in the process to keep the kerf from sitting right away takes a little practice. Correct assesment Macdaddy or shall I call you Mr. Reno? How is Janet these days?



Have fun mr. beats when you're boring behind that 1/4 face and the tree sits down HARD just as you pop through the other side.


Depth/style of face and all the little cuts and pieces removed all have their place in a variety of situations. That BS about it has to be this way and that. Its BS.

It sure is fun watching the woodwork come alive on these type of threads.

It's just some general guide lines buddy, no body said it had to be a certain way, you made that up on your own so get the #### off my back.

It takes experience and someone by your side with a specific tree being cut down as an example to really put the learning in motion. This computer stuff is meant to put the mind in motion.

 

[RandyMac]

When you mention a 1/4 facecut, back it up by saying you intend to bore cut, otherwise it can go badly by those with no knowledge or experience.

 

[Sport Faller]

You should always cut until the tree commits.

Who the hell cuts a 2" holding wood strip on EVERY single tree and then stands there and scratches their ass wondering why the tree is skybound? Oh, the GOL fellas.

Cut 'er up til she goes then use the escape route.

Damn, if I could get back all that Roger Maris swingin', wedge pounding, expended energy from leaving waaay to much holding wood.......... well, I could probably get up from watching storage wars and fix myself another drink

 

[RandyMac]

Get one for me Jake.
I been eating aspirin, trying to remember what it was like to run.