Best Chainsaw in the $300 catagory

[nstueve]

Some good advise so far, but this is AS and no one has bit on....
Again this is AS. Post up the model, and maybe somone on here has the parts, and better yet someone on here may get that saw running for you, and save you some money.

I totally overlooked this... He might have a 031-032! that would be a great starter saw and have the xl as a backup! There are plenty of shops that won't fix old saws and only want to work on the new ones b/c they can make more money on them. If you find a good shop or a good builder on here you'll be able to get any old stihl back up and running!

I'd check on what saw model your old man has and then check with us... if it's not worth it you better talk to Neal (nmurph). He's a great guy and great builder...


:arg: hi-jacking for a min... Neal did you get any thing good hunting this year?

 

[bryanr2]

Some good advise so far, but this is AS and no one has bit on....



Again this is AS. Post up the model, and maybe somone on here has the parts, and better yet someone on here may get that saw running for you, and save you some money.

If not and since you already have at least 1 Stihl b&c from your fathers saw, I would stay in the Stihl line, find something that can run the same bar & chain as your father's saw and you get 1 power head w/ extra goodies :biggrin:

Nothing wrong with Huskies or Dolmars, but if you can have a second b&c it can make life easier. You will eventually picnch one (we all have), and if the spare b&c is handy you just unbolt the stuck one, through on the spare, and cut the other out. This also makes having the saw shop sharpen your chain easier drop a chain off and still be able to cut.

Any Stihl 26/260 - 29/290 would be good, I'd try for a used 26/260 if your father's saw uses the same b&c. Most are the 3003 mount, smaller saws 3005, then Just need to know the pitch, & gauge.

dw

Sound advise- but I would rather have a 346. An extra bar and chain would not be a deal breaker for me.
26/260 is a classic pro model and the 29/290 is a respectable homeowner model if you have all day to cut. The 346 will walk all over both, weighs less, and is more nimble in the cut. OP you got a opportunity to get a pro grade 346 from a respected member on the site that you came to for advise. Advise would be to go with nmurph. In the original post, you stated you have 30 wooded acres to cut in and want to cut 5-10 cord a year. The 346 pro grade saw will outlast the homeowner saw by a long shot, it will run faster in the cut, it's lighter, and has a solid reputation and following.

 

[roostersgt]

Didn't see Murph had one for sale. Given the choice, I'd take Murphs light and nimble 346XP over a MS290/029, but I seriously doubt it would "outlast" a 290. I've yet to see a worn out 290. 290 's are not disposable. They are incredibly durable. The only way to kill them I am aware of is to straight gas them, lean them out, drop them from a tree or run over them with some type of vehicle. I know a couple of guys in the firewood business who swear by them. They've run "pro" saws and were not impressed by the price. I've seen their saws. Dirty, faded and plastic cracked in many places, but still working. Two of his saws have been run hard by transient workers (day laborers) for more than 8 years now and are still running. Those saws are used 3-4 days per week most of the year.

BTW, my 290 (no MM) pulls a 20" bar/.325 7pin with ease in all but big oak. Would absolutely rip through 6"-8" standing.

 

[Biglurr54]

Sounds like a rebuilt 346 or a Makita 6401. I think I like a rebuilt one more than a rental because you never know what your going to end up with when you buy a rental. I will have the Xl as a back up in a pinch. I will also look into what the model of my fathers saw. I'm not sure if he is willing to let it go just yet but I might be able to convince him as he has a slew of Homelites and no wooded land. These model numbers are confusing to a novice. I don't mind the weight of a heavy saw and the exercise is good for me. I im just felling and bucking the wood and hauling it out. I have an OWB so I don't worry about the branches and small limbs. I just trim them off and pile them up. What are the pros and cons of the 346 compared to the 6401

 

[nmurph]

... Neal did you get any thing good hunting this year?

This year was a bust. I had the big 160"+ on camera as late as a month after the end of last season. I did have any pics of him this year, and I only saw a couple of shooters. I can only hope that he didn't get hit by a vehicle. I have a game warden living literally right around the corner from the farm house, and he keeps the poachers scared away. And, I didn't hear of anyone shooting this monster, so I can only hope and wait for next year. Deer hunting and family are the only things that I love more than saws!!

Regardless of who he gets one from, a 346 would be my weapon of choice if I had to fell thirty acres of mostly 6" trees.

Didn't see Murph had one for sale...

I don't have one in the classifieds right now, but I always have one close to ready.

 

[bryanr2]

Sounds like a rebuilt 346 or a Makita 6401. I think I like a rebuilt one more than a rental because you never know what your going to end up with when you buy a rental. I will have the Xl as a back up in a pinch. I will also look into what the model of my fathers saw. I'm not sure if he is willing to let it go just yet but I might be able to convince him as he has a slew of Homelites and no wooded land. These model numbers are confusing to a novice. I don't mind the weight of a heavy saw and the exercise is good for me. I im just felling and bucking the wood and hauling it out. I have an OWB so I don't worry about the branches and small limbs. I just trim them off and pile them up. What are the pros and cons of the 346 compared to the 6401

Not comparing apples to oranges between the two, but for their respective size class they would be my pick.
346- light, nimble, lightening quick, argueably the best 50cc saw made, some dont like the outboard clutch in case you get pinched, some like the outboard- clutch runs cooler and bar feels more centered with saw. I have saws with outboard clutch as well as inboard. Never gotten in a spot where I couldnt get the powerhead off the bar and chain and I cut alot of wood. Property looks like a beaver lives there. Good ergonomics.

6401- 14 more cc than the 346, the option to upgrade to 79cc with new piston and jug, a little more weight. Runs like it has more ummph than a 60cc range saw. Can run 24 inch bar with authority. I dont view the 6401 as a heavy saw and it feels good in the hands to me. I prefer performance to comfort but I think you can find an acceptable offering of both in either one of these saws.

steven

 

[bryanr2]

Sounds like a rebuilt 346 or a Makita 6401. I think I like a rebuilt one more than a rental because you never know what your going to end up with when you buy a rental. I will have the Xl as a back up in a pinch. I will also look into what the model of my fathers saw. I'm not sure if he is willing to let it go just yet but I might be able to convince him as he has a slew of Homelites and no wooded land. These model numbers are confusing to a novice. I don't mind the weight of a heavy saw and the exercise is good for me. I im just felling and bucking the wood and hauling it out. I have an OWB so I don't worry about the branches and small limbs. I just trim them off and pile them up. What are the pros and cons of the 346 compared to the 6401

I think your on the right track with those two choices and would be pleased with either. For your current cutting needs of 6-8'' the 346 would be the ticket. Lightening quick in the cut and on to the next. Limbing is tiresome enough (if your approaching it aggressively and not just killin a Sunday afternoon). I think you would like the weight of the saw for that task, and for the time invested- get the most out of it. Bc of the nature of the task- limbing takes alot out of your arms, upper back and shoulders, and the 346 is top for weight vrs power output. you can move much more fluidly limbing with a 10lb saw than with a 14lb saw. Felling and bucking you may enjoy the bigger 6401 in bigger wood ,but you will be pleasantly surprised by what the 346 can do for your needs. We look forward to hearing what you select. Good luck with your saw acquisition.

 

[Magnumfloyd]

I like my echo cs 400 mufffler mod

 

[nmurph]

MUFFLER MODs are good...

 

[genesis5521]

I just purchased my first house last month. One of the big selling points was the fact that it has a Woodmaster OWB and 30 acres of forest just asking to be cleaned up and select cut. I purchased a used Homelite SuperXL for $40.00. It is showing its age but it cuts like a bear when it's running. The problem is it keeps flooding and leaning out and having issue with the tensioner. I am dropping it off at a local repair shop that specializes in the older Homelites. I love how this saw will chomp through anything. 62cc's of loud endless power. Unfortunately the saw is not working more than it is working so i would like to get a new saw as a primary and have the Super Xl all greased up and ready to go as a back up or for big stuff. My question is what should i get. I need to clean about 10 cord a season. My budget is about $300.00 and I will be clearing mainly hard woods about 6-8 inches in diameter with the occasional larger tree. I want something reliable and well built that i will be able to have serviced and order parts for. My father has an older Stihl and can't get ignition for it. All the repair shops say they won't work on the saw. I don't want a disposable saw. Let me know what would be best for my uses and cheapest!

Well it doesn't sound like you need a pro saw, unless you just want a pro saw. And there's nothing wrong with that. I started out with a brand new Stihl MS170 ($180). Cut 10 cords a year with that little sucker. Light as a feather, reliable as dirt, and a pure pleasure to use. I had a 14" bar on it and cut quite a few 24"+trees with it, but mostly 10" to 14". Had it for 10 years now, and cut over 60 cords with it. I expect it to last a lifetime. But even if it doesn't, I've already got my money's worth out of it. If it pooped out today, and I junked it, it would have cost me a measly $18 a year to own and use. Ya really can't beat that.

I recently got a touch of CAD and bought a brand new Stihl MS290 Farm Boss with a 16" bar ($349). I couldn't be happier with it.
It does everything I'll ever ask a chainsaw to do. But for that matter, so would an MS170, or MS250. I like "new" vs "used". But that's just me. Stihl sells more 250's and 290's then all of their other models combined. There are quite literally hundreds of thousands of these two models in use. The 290 is Stihl's biggest bang for the buck.

I'd suggest you check out a new 170 ($180), 250 ($299), and 290 ($349). But don't let us talk ya in to anything. We're just sharing our personal experiences with ya to give ya some food for thought. You should really check out "ALL" the major brands, and get whatever your most comfortable with and can afford. For what you're gonna be doing, you really don't need a lot of saw.

I'd venture to say that most homeowners would do nicely with a 30cc saw. Heck, Tractor supply sometime puts the Poulan 40cc "Wild Thing" on sale for $99 and that includes a case. Nothing wrong with that.

What ever saw you get is gonna be a fine saw. Keep the chain sharp, stay safe, and have fun with it.

Don <><

 

[Volk]

Husky 353

Husky 353 nice semi-pro saw...

 

[blsnelling]

I started out with a brand new Stihl MS170 ($180). Cut 10 cords a year with that little sucker. Light as a feather, reliable as dirt, and a pure pleasure to use. I had a 14" bar on it and cut quite a few 24"+trees with it, but mostly 10" to 14". Had it for 10 years now, and cut over 60 cords with it.

I'd suggest you check out a new 170 ($180), 250 ($299), and 290 ($349).

I can't even imagine trying to cut what you say you have with a MS170:msp_scared: The 170 is nothing more than a throw away homeowner saw. It is not intended to cut that kind of wood. You're either a VERY patient man, or have extremely low expectations of your equipment. Given his budget, the MS170 should not even be considered. It's not the right tool for the job.

 

[user 64030]

I started out with a brand new Stihl MS170 ($180). Cut 10 cords a year with that little sucker. Light as a feather, reliable as dirt, and a pure pleasure to use. I had a 14" bar on it and cut quite a few 24"+trees with it, but mostly 10" to 14". Had it for 10 years now, and cut over 60 cords with it. I expect it to last a lifetime. But even if it doesn't, I've already got my money's worth out of it. If it pooped out today, and I junked it, it would have cost me a measly $18 a year to own and use. Ya really can't beat that.

I can't even imagine trying to cut what you say you have with a MS170:msp_scared: The 170 is nothing more than a throw away homeowner saw. It is not intended to cut that kind of wood. You're either a VERY patient man, or have extremely low expectations of your equipment. Given his budget, the MS170 should not even be considered. It's not the right tool for the job.

Hmmmm

Cut 10 cords a year with that little sucker
+
Had it for 10 years now
=
cut over 60 cords with it

Well, I guess 100 is more than 60....

Wouldnt it have cut 100 cords though?

dw

 

[genesis5521]

I can't even imagine trying to cut what you say you have with a MS170:msp_scared: The 170 is nothing more than a throw away homeowner saw. It is not intended to cut that kind of wood. You're either a VERY patient man, or have extremely low expectations of your equipment. Given his budget, the MS170 should not even be considered. It's not the right tool for the job.

I don't mean to start a piss'n contest with ya Blsnelling, but I respectfully beg to differ with ya. The MS170 can easily handle 10 cords a year of 6 to 8 inch wood. I know, because I've done it with much bigger wood. Sure, other saws could cut faster, but I am patient, (at 66 I have to be) and the light weight of the 170 makes it a pure pleasure to use. Disposable? I don't know. Mine hasn't pooped out yet. It's done everything I've ever ask of it.

I cut everything in the below pic with my little 170. You'd do things differently, and that's OK. While suggesting he check out the 170, 250, and 290, I also suggested he check out ALL the major brands, and get whatever he's most comfortable with and can afford. We're all just sharing our personal experience and opinions with the OP. I'm sure he'll do his homework and get whatever he feels he needs (or wants) to get the job done.

Now let's not get hostile. Yur a nice guy and I'm a nice guy. I'll buy ya a virtual beer.

Don <><

 

[genesis5521]

Hmmmm

Cut 10 cords a year with that little sucker
+
Had it for 10 years now
=
cut over 60 cords with it

Well, I guess 100 is more than 60....

Wouldnt it have cut 100 cords though?

dw

Hi DW. I bought the little 170 to clear a path to make a driveway back in 2002. Then it just sat for a few years. I put in a wood burning stove in 2006. That's when I started cutting 10 cords a year with it.

Don <><

 

[bryanr2]

I don't mean to start a piss'n contest with ya Blsnelling, but I respectfully beg to differ with ya. The MS170 can easily handle 10 cords a year of 6 to 8 inch wood. I know, because I've done it with much bigger wood. Sure, other saws could cut faster, but I am patient, (at 66 I have to be) and the light weight of the 170 makes it a pure pleasure to use. Disposable? I don't know. Mine hasn't pooped out yet.

I cut everything in the below pic with my little 170. You'd do things differently, and that's OK. While suggesting he check out the 170, 250, and 290, I also suggested he check out ALL the major brands, and get whatever he's comfortable with and can afford.

Now let's not get hostile. I'll buy ya a virtual beer.

Don <><

OP- after you check out the offerings of all major brands- I am confident you will come back to the Husky 346 from nmurph. Whether or not you need a "pro saw", if you can get a freshly rebuilt one from nmurph for the cost of a homeowner saw, there is no real decision to be made there. If the 170 has lasted this gentleman 10 years- imagine how long a pro grade 346 would last. If the rebuilt 346 was not avail, only then would I start considering homeowner saws, but lucky for you, that is not the case. Go for the 346. Cutting is only one part of firewood processing, and you dont need to kill yourself doing it with a 30cc twig grinder. You still have to cut, pull the brush, transport the logs, split the logs, and stack. Why be back there cutting with the lesser saw, when you could be on to splitting and stacking? Time is money! Don't tie yourself up just cutting when you have all these other aspects to complete b4 the wood makes it to the stove.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

nmurph

just curious....
what does a freshly rebuilt 346 include? Crank? Bearings? P&C? Carb rebuild? All the above?
and what would one cost?

 

[stihlrookie]

Now that the math is all cleared up

Hi DW. I bought the little 170 to clear a path to make a driveway back in 2002. Then it just sat for a few years. I put in a wood burning stove in 2006. That's when I started cutting 10 cords a year with it.

Don <><

Just because it CAN be done doesn't mean it SHOULD be done. A bowsaw can cut all that wood as well. Do you care to use it?

I am in the boat for the used/rebuilt 346 or a new MS250. That 250 weighs 3 pounds less than your 290 and is more than enough saw for what the OP desires and comes in at 3 bills.

 

[genesis5521]

That 250 weighs 3 pounds less than your 290 and is more than enough saw for what the OP desires and comes in at 3 bills.

I agree with ya stihlrookie.

Don <><

 

[bryanr2]

OP- go online and watch a few videos of the saws that have been recommended. A picture is worth a thousand words- so a video certainly has at least equal worth in deciding for yourself.