Round length while cutting

[haveawoody]

I got asked yesterday how i cut everything the same length with pretty consistent measure while chaining.
Thought i would pass this handy tip on.

Bring a 16" or whatever size bar and chain with you to the location you want to cut your rounds to size.
Start it up and just enough juice to get the chain moving, lay it near flat on the log length you want to cut and lift the back so the tip marks your cut, then move to the side and cut at speed.
Now every cut it exactly the same length.

Not my creation but a handy way to make all the rounds exact length for the splitting and stacking piles.
No silly measure tools or guesswork needed.

 

[DFK]

I do much the same with logs larger than14".
My MS310 has a 18" bar on it. Most of my wood is cut to 16".
After I cut the end of the log off square, I take a measuring tape and measure off 16" where the first round will be cut. Then, I take my saw and hook the dogs into the end of the log so that the bar is parrell with the log. Then... I take a large black magic marker and mark the 16" mark on the bar. After that It is done just as you described above using the black mark a measuring device.

I dont measure rounds that are less than about 14". Once they get larger that 14" I will cut them long if I dont measure them.

David

 

[Marc]

I do much the same with logs larger than14".
My MS310 has a 18" bar on it. Most of my wood is cut to 16".
After I cut the end of the log off square, I take a measuring tape and measure off 16" where the first round will be cut. Then, I take my saw and hook the dogs into the end of the log so that the bar is parrell with the log. Then... I take a large black magic marker and mark the 16" mark on the bar. After that It is done just as you described above using the black mark a measuring device.

I dont measure rounds that are less than about 14". Once they get larger that 14" I will cut them long if I dont measure them.

David

I need to do this. I run a 24" bar on my 372 most of the time, so I could make an 16, 18 and 20" marks. Because, boy do I suck at eyeballing.

 

[c5rulz]

I don't worry so much about length, but rather make cuts in rounds where they are going to be easier to split. i.e. make crotchs come out on the ends of a piece rather than right in the middle. My stove will take 16-23" so there is quite a fudge factor. The stacks don't end up so pretty, but when you split all by hand, it makes a big difference.

 

[memory]

Forgive me if I am being stupid but isn't using your chainsaw to mark the logs alot more work than it has to be? Wouldn't it be much easier to use a certain size stick and some marking paint or sidewalk chalk?

Does anybody have a video of this method being done? For some reason, I can not picture how this is done.

 

[Sterff]

Wouldn't it be much easier to use a certain size stick and some marking paint or sidewalk chalk?

That is what I do. I make all of my logs 17" to fit in the fireplace. I made a small stick out of kindling (17" long) and go down the log and mark it with side walk chalk. That way you just have to cut on all of your marks. Blue and pink work the best...

 

[Whitespider]

Forgive me if I am being stupid but isn't using your chainsaw to mark the logs alot more work than it has to be? Wouldn't it be much easier to use a certain size stick and some marking paint or sidewalk chalk?

Personally I don’t understand why you would mark the logs at all… where’s the need? Why would I want to waste the time marking a log… walking its length and back again… and then walking it again when I cut it? And why would I want to carry more tools/equipment… tape measuers, markers, sticks, chalk, or whatever? Seems sort’a silly when I can just use some part of the saw as a gauge as I’m cutting.

I also use my bar to gauge length and make my cuts at 16-inches. The bar I use 80% of the time is (conveniently) 16-inches long, and on my 20-inch bar I painted lines. After I make a cut, and as I repositioning myself for the next cut, I give the saw a quarter turn so the bar is parallel with the log. There’s always something to use as reference where the next cut will be… such as a blemish in the bark, a bug hole, or even a stray saw chip laying there. It ain’t like the “reference” has to be dead-nutz-on… I mean really, c’mon, if the reference is a little bit off dead-nutz, just allow for that when you start the cut.

It fast and efficient… I can turn the saw, pick my reference, and turn the saw back into cutting position quicker than the time it takes to reposition my feet for the next cut. It becomes automatic, second nature… you don’t even think about it, it just happens.

 

[haveawoody]

Whitespider,

I got the mark cut and turn cut from an old timer but i think your way is even better.
Saw on no chain move, use the side bar as measure then just a step left or right with the tip in place as marker and cut.

Guess when you do something so many times i gave it little though to change it, but i have a new technique to try now thanks to you
5 or 10 seconds saved per cut sounds like productive saved beer time to me. lol

Dito for me walking and marking, then walking and cutting and who is going to remember to bring two more things just to mark.

 

[haveawoody]

memory,

Sorry no video of the marking/cut but really i think Whitespider has an even better way to do it.

Although i bet a tube hunt will find using a chain bar as measure to cut will turn up many ideas.
Heck my idea wasn't even mine but a borrowed one. LOL

 

[Sterff]

Personally I don’t understand why you would mark the logs at all… where’s the need? Why would I want to waste the time marking a log… walking its length and back again… and then walking it again when I cut it? And why would I want to carry more tools/equipment… tape measuers, markers, sticks, chalk, or whatever? Seems sort’a silly when I can just use some part of the saw as a gauge as I’m cutting.

I also use my bar to gauge length and make my cuts at 16-inches. The bar I use 80% of the time is (conveniently) 16-inches long, and on my 20-inch bar I painted lines. After I make a cut, and as I repositioning myself for the next cut, I give the saw a quarter turn so the bar is parallel with the log. There’s always something to use as reference where the next cut will be… such as a blemish in the bark, a bug hole, or even a stray saw chip laying there. It ain’t like the “reference” has to be dead-nutz-on… I mean really, c’mon, if the reference is a little bit off dead-nutz, just allow for that when you start the cut.

It fast and efficient… I can turn the saw, pick my reference, and turn the saw back into cutting position quicker than the time it takes to reposition my feet for the next cut. It becomes automatic, second nature… you don’t even think about it, it just happens.

I don't really think it's much of a hassle to mark the logs. I keep all of my gas, oil, hatchet, chalk, etc. in a 5 gallon bucket. Id rather spend another two minutes marking and have the logs actually fit in the fireplace when I load it.

 

[Nosmo]

My Method

I probably take more time than I should but all my rounds come out the same length.
Here is what I do. After felling the tree I start in on the branches. I begin measuring at the trunk outward in 16" spans. I use a tape measure and chalk and can mark 3 or four spaces before I have to move the tape again.

If I come to a fork I'll end a 16" cut just before it and the skip over to the other side to continue marking. When I have reached as far out on that limb as I want to keep for wood I begin cutting back towards the trunk. This seems to work really well for me and all the sticks are exactly the same length.

I do the same on the trunk. I measure from the large end and begin marking until I reach the top end. Then I cut back each round towards the large end. I have a large homemade log jack that gets those trunks right off the ground for me.

Nosmo

 

[turnkey4099]

I need to do this. I run a 24" bar on my 372 most of the time, so I could make an 16, 18 and 20" marks. Because, boy do I suck at eyeballing.

Same here. When eyeballing for 16" I will cut long on small stuff, short on big stuff. I use a measureing stick to locate each cut.

Harry K

 

[branchbuzzer]

Personally, I just use whatever method is most convenient at the time. Most of the time I just eyeball, but the problem I get into with that is that I'll form a shape in my mind of what a 16" piece looks like ( the width in relation to the length ) and then on bigger diameter pieces I'll end up making them too long and on smaller stuff too short. I usually just try to error on the short side.

Sometimes it's not really convenient to walk the log, it might be sitting in a big tangle of brush for example or on some steep slope. I tend to get a bit tired of flipping the saw around to measure, but I think that is easier the lighter the saw you're using. I wouldn't exactly describe any of the methods being discussed as being tedious. Pretty small in the grand scheme of the things - use what you're comfortable with.

 

[haveawoody]

You would think in these times of gadgets for eveything someone would have modified a laser finder to beep at some setable length and mount it on the saw.

That would be a handy stihl addon vs 12,000 versions of a slightly different saw.

 

[Whitespider]

I don't really think it's much of a hassle to mark the logs. I keep all of my gas, oil, hatchet, chalk, etc. in a 5 gallon bucket. Id rather spend another two minutes marking and have the logs actually fit in the fireplace when I load it.

Well, you're missing the point. You don't have to waste that two minutes so the logs fit the fireplace... all of my rounds are the same length, and I don't waste time marking. Actually, I'd be willing to bet it wastes more than two minutes by the time you set the saw down, retrieve marking equipment, mark the log, return marking equipment, retrieve saw, restart saw... and then you make what? 6 or 8 cuts and it's time to mark another log? Let's give you the benefit of doubt and say your logs are long enough you get 10 rounds from them, so you waste 2 minutes for every 10 rounds... or 20 minutes for every 100 rounds... or 3 hours and 20 minutes for every 1000 rounds cut. Good lord man, that's near half a days cutting time lost for every 1000 cuts... and I'm bettin' you ain't getting ten cuts to every log so the time lost is more than that!

My time means something to me... there ain't enough hours in a day the way it is, let alone wasting half of it.

 

[discounthunter]

i find exact length cut rounds a waste of brain power .just estimate and cut, if your within 2-3 inches your good to go.if your off even more so what! the wood will still burn.after a few thousand rounds you should be able to guestimate pretty good.

 

[Sterff]

Well, you're missing the point. You don't have to waste that two minutes so the logs fit the fireplace... all of my rounds are the same length, and I don't waste time marking. Actually, I'd be willing to bet it wastes more than two minutes by the time you set the saw down, retrieve marking equipment, mark the log, return marking equipment, retrieve saw, restart saw... and then you make what? 6 or 8 cuts and it's time to mark another log? Let's give you the benefit of doubt and say your logs are long enough you get 10 rounds from them, so you waste 2 minutes for every 10 rounds... or 20 minutes for every 100 rounds... or 3 hours and 20 minutes for every 1000 rounds cut. Good lord man, that's near half a days cutting time lost for every 1000 cuts... and I'm bettin' you ain't getting ten cuts to every log so the time lost is more than that!

My time means something to me... there ain't enough hours in a day the way it is, let alone wasting half of it.

You don't have to like my method and that's fine by me. I for one, can't stand when I bring wood in, and it's too long to fit in the fireplace. I never cut wood by myself anyhow, so once my helper starts marking, I will begin cutting. I've been doing it this way for years without issue, and like to have my logs exactly 17". I don't make firewood for profit, I do it for fun and a way to save some money on oil. I usually get more than 10 cuts per tree too. This trailer load is two trees worth...

 

[gregfox]

I use a stick and hatchet. I can mark a 1 cord tree in a couple minutes. Anything under 8" is a guess. I don't like wasting time but I really don't like getting pieces too long to fit, or too short to maximize my little stove. And I'm a little paricular on having nice stacks and uniform length. So for me it's not wasting time just another step. Being in that much of a hurry ruins the fun of it. I consider productive cutting 3/4 - 1 cord per hour, so 2 minutes of marking per hour is a nice little break to enjoy the tree that just hit the ground. I like the sideways saw idea but my MS361 weighs a lot more than a 2oz stick and 12oz hatchet

 

[memory]

So after every cut, you have to reposition yourself to mark the next cut? And you are not even making a mark on the log, you are just using a reference on the log. For me, the less I am holding the saw, the better. I make my rounds 20" in length and I like for every piece be pretty close to that length, of course there are always exceptions. I don't mark the really small stuff, just guess. I don't care if the small stuff is 10" longer as long as I know it will fit in the stove.

I have never understood this concept and probably never will. One reason I don't is because I have never done it, I guess. I would still like to see a video of this being done. I looked on youtube but didn't find anything.

 

[blacklocst]

Call me silly (and I think I counted at least 2 postings calling this method so) but I use my scabbard from my bar which I always have and a lumber marker. No chain-saw aerobics for me.