What is rare is finding a rim drive/drum for an SL-10. Had to settle for a 7 x 3/8" spur/drum.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
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What is rare is finding a rim drive/drum for an SL-10. Had to settle for a 7 x 3/8" spur/drum.
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Carl I just went to 8844jeff and clicked his name then send a message and looked for save a copy of this message and it is checked.Jut wanted to let ya know i did find that box.
Carl I just went to 8844jeff and clicked his name then send a message and looked for save a copy of this message and it is checked.Jut wanted to let ya know i did find that box.
Just incase I screwed up the pm ,i got the spring today thanks a bunch. If there is anything i may have that you ever need just shout.
Sl-9 might be a p.o.s ?
Well I got the rings in the sl9 and with a bunch of cranking it will run. But when it does it hates to idel and when it does the chain turns all the time very dangerous.When I pull the cord the chain turns it this normal for this saw? When the engine turns over so does the chain? I know nothing really about these old saws but should the chain turn all the time? That is the reason my bil gave up on it he told me " you have to idel it so high to keep it running and the chain is turning I just gave up" I figured it was maybe a bad seal so I put in two new seals ,new used piston from a junked sl9 and new rings. Anybody have any ideas?
Well I got the rings in the sl9 and with a bunch of cranking it will run. But when it does it hates to idel and when it does the chain turns all the time very dangerous.When I pull the cord the chain turns it this normal for this saw? When the engine turns over so does the chain? I know nothing really about these old saws but should the chain turn all the time? That is the reason my bil gave up on it he told me " you have to idel it so high to keep it running and the chain is turning I just gave up" I figured it was maybe a bad seal so I put in two new seals ,new used piston from a junked sl9 and new rings. Anybody have any ideas?
No. Broken spring, trash fouled inside the drum or such like. Get out your 1/2" socket and impact wrench for a look-see.
Idle problem can be mixture adjustment or crap in the jets. Poor fuel delivery.
You put a kit in the carb?
View attachment 229482View attachment 229483View attachment 229484View attachment 229485View attachment 229486No I did not the saw ran before I tore it down so I figured it was ok ? I can take the clutch apart and look, when I do I will post a photo for ya. Thanks for answering me tho I will keep ya informed when i get her apart.I thought clutch issue first thing but I know ZERO about them. This is the order and condition of the clutch parts I have one more photo that I will post in a moment.From the engine out it was installed like this, washer with all the holes,clutch w/ springs facing the engine, hollow drum thing?,flat washer , nut , also the small spacer tube/cylinder for the shaft.The springs seem to be compleatly relaxed not stuck open the hollow drum slid eaisly off from the clutch assembly it was not stuck onto the clutch it spins freely. Oh and the inside of the drum is clean ?????
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mweba
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have this Super 754 up and running. Thought I would add it to the thread. This is officially the loudest saw in my collection, sorry Homelite 17. You have been dethrone
[video=youtube_share;GblES4WlVWQ]http://youtu.be/GblES4WlVWQ[/video]
[video=youtube_share;GblES4WlVWQ]http://youtu.be/GblES4WlVWQ[/video]
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Did the clutch drum spin freely when you first removed the clutch cover, bar, and chain (before you removed the nut)? Maybe something wasn't assembled right, and the drum was jammed up when the nut was tightened down. The inner bearing race (spacer tube) is supposed to be longer than the bearing, so the nut and washer bottom out on it without binding up the drum and bearing. When things are all assembled, does the inner race stick out beyond the bearing a bit? It should, otherwise things will bind when you tighten down the nut.
I ran across this box of saws before leaving last month, I am sure they are still there is anyone in interested and reasonably priced.
Mark
Mark
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I see a Remington in Wards colors that looks familiar.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Are you keeping it until the GTG?
mweba
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes,all three
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
:msp_thumbsup:
:msp_thumbup::cool2:
I ran across this box of saws before leaving last month, I am sure they are still there is anyone in interested and reasonably priced.
Mark
Where?.......................................
Warped5
WingNut
Dibs on the Craftsman Echo on the RH side ... Please let me know.
I may have thought of somthing, the nut that holds the clutch assembly on the saw is a old style lock nut.I put everything on the crank and tightend it all up ... tight. I wonder if I should have done that then backed off that nut a little so the drum was not pinched tight to the clutch? Also there is a funny looking flat needle bearing thing like a washer and then there is a washer as well.If my memory serves they were behind the side cover (not in front) on the clutch side of the side cover.Or am i mixed up.
That Funny looking flat needle bearing thing..........sounds like you are talking about the thrust bearing. That should be inside the crankcase. There is a set of thrust bearings and races on each side of the crank rod. I have a SL-9a apart right now, if no one else can, I can take a picture of what it looks like when I get home from work in 2 days.
Yes thrust bearing but there was only one on this saw on the pto side. the other side is a felt washer only. It may ahave been that I had the clutch housing,and maybe that is why the chain / clutch is engauged all the time.
I may have misunderstood but i thought you only took the clutch off. That thrust brg should be inside the crank case, not outside of the crankcase cover by the clutch.
Sorry if I misunderstood
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