Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[Jeff Lary]

#1: Grind the pee out of your extra 7/16" box end wrench so you can get it in there. Also helps while you have the carb. removed to shorten the studs 1/16" so they don't stick out of the nut any when tightened. Even shorter than the nut is thick will help. Yup, I've used a needle nose pliers and a caping chizel on them.

#2: Browse your local flea market for a cheapo flat sheet steel 13/16" wrench and use the correct plug. Your average CJ6 or CJ8 is not correct. When the proper plug is used (Champion J-6J or equavalent) the hex will fall between the top fin of the cylinder and the housing where the flat wrench can get a hold on it.

The above wrench is .150" thick, and it could be a tad thinner.

Note the difference in the hex location on the plugs.

Thanks alot I get on that I will get the correct plug tomorrow.I have the bigger one in it now but also tried a small one today as well.I got a hold of Joe at sugar creek and I will be buying a carb kit from him VERY soon Thanks a bunch.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Chuck it up in a vise and lean on it.

when it is in the saw should it be leaning back at an angle towards the operator? Or should it be perfectly straight up and down, Like a flag pole?

 

[67L36Driver]

when it is in the saw should it be leaning back at an angle towards the operator? Or should it be perfectly straight up and down, Like a flag pole?

Plunger looks plumb straight to me, it is the hole it screws into that is at an angle.

Model Profile: Super 75

B.T.W. I have two Super 75A's. They have the oiler button/knob on the handle above the throttle trigger.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Yes if I wasnt such a Idiot I could have seen that myself.I got her all strightend out today she was bent pretty bad too.Now she goes up and down pretty good. Just per her in the oil case after a good cleaning and now waiting for a price from sugar creek for the carb kit.I wanna get that on its way.

Hey in my e-mail I keep getting notifications that hutchkinkade has responded to the the remington thread.I have looek every time i get that but never seen his post?

WHOOP found him .

 

[grantwolland]

need help with the fuel line on an SL-5

got me a remington SL5 and it had no fuel line or filter in the tank. can anyone tell me or show me what went where from the double ended fitting on the bottom of the tank to what is inside it? I also need the gasket that goes between the carb inlet and air filter connector tube. I assume it is a standard tillotson hl part? thanks once i get her running i'll get pics or vid...

 

[kgip2k]

Just picked up my first Remington, air cover says Powerlite, but no PL#... It has PR C on the starter and PRC marked as model number on the tag... What do I have?

 

[hutchkinkaid]

SL4A oil line

Hey folks

How does this puppy come off? Putting a fuel line, sprocket side seal & O ring in my SL4A, and the oil line is obviously attached to the inner cover...what is not so obvious is how it un-attaches...take the hole oil pump assemby (rear handle) apart? I'm in far enough over my head already...


Thanks

 

[Jeff Lary]

Hi I have an sl 9 and it is the same as that as far as the oil line.I have my handel all apart and the oil side cover and it the "handel" are attached together
.Now that being said that side cover if moved ever so gently the line is quite flexable.I think you could ( maybe ) keep prying that side cover open about another 1/2 to 1 inch more then sneek in your smallest 7/16 open and loosen and remove the line on the end behind the oil cover. But before you take the line nut off compleatly look closely about 1 inch down the line you will see a rubber mount that is around the line itself. That little cylinder of rubber fits into a half round steel mount on the inside of the cover to keep the line from chaffing.Just put the rubber back in the same spot on the line when you slip it back together.
I had to get that cover off mine so thats when I disconnected it from that end ,but i think if you are careful you can gently pry open this area and take it off where you can see it.Good luck and go slow it shouldnt be too hard you can do this, we got faith in ya.

 

[67L36Driver]

No need to remove handle/carb. box.

You need to remove crankcase cover to get to the oil line. Five machine screws. That means you have to remove the clutch etc. first.

Gently pry it loose and slide it off the end of the crank and then you can swing it away and forward to finish removing the oil line nut.

Be carefull of the large 'O' ring cover seal so it ends up back in the proper place.

Now is the time to replace the fuel line(s)!!!!

 

[hutchkinkaid]

Thanks Jeff

When you say that you have your handle all apart you mean the rear handle eh? I'll have a look when I get back to it, I figure it's not a good bet to go torqueing on that clutch side cover and line if I don't have to. Think I'll pull it down and play safe...

 

[Jeff Lary]

Like the poster above (driver) said remove the clutch first then you should be able to swing the side cover open a little more and remove the oil line.You'll getter !!!


Hey Carl I noticed on your 75 you have a muffler baffel.Mine does not, how did you attach it to the muffler? I can make one no problem but all I see for some sort of attachment point is a grove around the inside of the orig muffler.I see screws in the face of your baffel how did you attach that bugger?

 

[Jeff Lary]

When you say that you have your handle all apart you mean the rear handle eh? I'll have a look when I get back to it, I figure it's not a good bet to go torqueing on that clutch side cover and line if I don't have to. Think I'll pull it down and play safe...

Your only about a half a day away come on down we will tackel her together!

 

[hutchkinkaid]

Oil line

Clutch is already off, (hey another clutch removal trick, Channel Locks & 2 cap screws works great) but as I pulled the cover out I got the sinking feeling that something was gonna kink on me if I went much further, I'll take another hack next week when time allows...thanks boys.

 

[67L36Driver]

Like the poster above (driver) said remove the clutch first then you should be able to swing the side cover open a little more and remove the oil line.You'll getter !!!


Hey Carl I noticed on your 75 you have a muffler baffel. Mine does not, how did you attach it to the muffler? I can make one no problem but all I see for some sort of attachment point is a grove around the inside of the orig muffler.I see screws in the face of your baffel how did you attach that bugger?

Baffel is just a chunk of sheet steel with a lot of small holes drilled in it. Fits in the groove of the 'muffler' body and the top lid holds in in place.

You may want to take note of how the spring I am sending you holds the air filter on.

 

[Jeff Lary]

My rubber strap is broken but still in place on the bottom of the carb, so i know where that goes the top...I will have to look to see if my carb has those top tabs.I am sure it does thanks again.

 

[67L36Driver]

My rubber strap is broken but still in place on the bottom of the carb, so i know where that goes the top...I will have to look to see if my carb has those top tabs.I am sure it does thanks again.

Rubber strap is someone's field expedient repair.

Spring eyes attach to a triangle shape wire bail trapped between the carb. air horn and carb. body. I'll try to post a pic later when there is enuff light.

Finding a good air filter can take a while............................................

 

[Jeff Lary]

Well I probobly wont worry too much about the filter condition.I will get by with the one I have I have blown it out and really roughed it up to get rid of all the loose stuff.I bet you measure the carb throte and go to a bike shop and ask them for a k&n filter to fit that measurement and they would have one.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Baffel is just a chunk of sheet steel with a lot of small holes drilled in it. Fits in the groove of the 'muffler' body and the top lid holds in in place.

You may want to take note of how the spring I am sending you holds the air filter on.

well I just took the miffler assembly off and made a baffel myself I drilled the number "75" into it with 17 1/8 inch holes.If that is not enough vent I made a second one with a bunch of larger holes in it. I tell ya that old stuff looks kind of crude when compared to todays saws but they are well made and easy to take apart, and Thats a good thing I suppose !!

 

[67L36Driver]

Just picked up my first Remington, air cover says Powerlite, but no PL#... It has PR C on the starter and PRC marked as model number on the tag... What do I have?

Darn things are hard to determine unless it is marked/tagged somewhere. And, those parts are easily swapped.

Use the popsicle stick method to measure the bore is what I end up doing.

Remove the muffler and poke a popsicle stick accross the bore, run the piston up hard against it to leave a mark and measure with a scale or dial caliper. Often accurate to .020".

 

[kgip2k]

Darn things are hard to determine unless it is marked/tagged somewhere. And, those parts are easily swapped.

Use the popsicle stick method to measure the bore is what I end up doing.

Remove the muffler and poke a popsicle stick accross the bore, run the piston up hard against it to leave a mark and measure with a scale or dial caliper. Often accurate to .020".

Will do, never thought about doing it that way..Kinda wonder if this isnt something rare... LOL