Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Thanks but, I don't see it on the IPL.
It would have to be an SL-9A ('regular' SL-9 doesn't have the auto-oiler) for it to have the oiler check valve.
Thanks but, I don't see it on the IPL.
It would have to be an SL-9A ('regular' SL-9 doesn't have the auto-oiler) for it to have the oiler check valve.
It would have to be an SL-9A ('regular' SL-9 doesn't have the auto-oiler) for it to have the oiler check valve.
U R right, I just looked at my SL-10 IPL. Makes it akward to deal with, like a Homie XL-101.
Sent you a P.M. on the rings. Use 43mm in the search.
Looking for a source for the fuel tank vent/check on the PL/SL series of saws. The one on my reciently completed PL-4 is hopelessly clogged up. It was making the engine run lean/race after a short cutting effort. I may have to use the vent/check from an early Homie XL-101 for now.
Looked thru all my IPL's and cannot find it called out even.
Just get up Aaron? Darn vampires workin' second shift.
It is the fuel tank vent/check valve I've been worrying over. Used one from an Early XL-101 in my latest PL-4 and it solved the problem. It was loosing power in the cut and racing at idle.
May be the root of my problems with the SL-11A also.
Edit: Found the part number for the fuel tank vent/check valve. #65708
Interesting collection of parts.
REMINGTON SUPER 754 CHAINSAW FOR PARTS OR REPAIR | eBay
Blue Wards parts and the cartoon bar.
View attachment 228423View attachment 228424Is the plunger supposed to be bent like this? It will not move so I took the side cover off and opened the oil tank up. I wanted to see if there was an internal issue and there was none i could see. But when i took the plunger out to see if I could soak it to free it up it looked bent to me? When it is on the saw it is leaning back toward the operator some,I figured it was supposed to be for ease of use but it also seems to be bent a little.I took 1 photo then rolled it around about 180 degrees and took 1 mor photo, in that one I think you can see a little bend or sweep.Is this "sweep why it will not move
View attachment 228297View attachment 228298View attachment 228299I just tried the 75 and it will sputter and run a few seconds but I think some issues lie in the carb.I will be needing some sort of carb kit if one exists ?
If you prime the cylinder or carb it will run 2-3 sec better if cylinder is primed instead of carb. I will post 3 or 4 pics of the carb I will need a kit i guess as the diaphram sounds like a papaer grocerie bag when flexed.Pretty stiff stuff. also I have two questions for now probably more later but here they are. BTW This is a Carter model NRD carb .
1) How do you get the carb mounting nuts tight? I can barely get a sm ignition wrench on the corner of the nut and pretty sure I will not be able to get it tight enough that way.My only option i can see is using a small cold chisel to tap the nuts around,I dont like that idea.
2) How do you get the spark plug tight there is no room behind the trigger mech to get a socket onto the plug? Was there a special tool for this? All I can do is use needle nose pliers to "snug " it up a little.I dont like this idea either.
I've seen worse, but it may be a problem. Some taps with a soft faced hammer on a flat surface may cure the problem. Or make it worse.
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