Eccentric
Mister Wizard
It would have to be an SL-9A ('regular' SL-9 doesn't have the auto-oiler) for it to have the oiler check valve.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
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It would have to be an SL-9A ('regular' SL-9 doesn't have the auto-oiler) for it to have the oiler check valve.
Just get up Aaron? Darn vampires workin' second shift.
It is the fuel tank vent/check valve I've been worrying over. Used one from an Early XL-101 in my latest PL-4 and it solved the problem. It was loosing power in the cut and racing at idle.
May be the root of my problems with the SL-11A also.
Edit: Found the part number for the fuel tank vent/check valve. #65708
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Mine is an SL 9 and like I said if you think I have a part for you let me know I will help if i can.
Well as usual I am nuts there are locator pins on the piston very very small but there. And that is the reason I could not get the ring to collaspe enough to get it into the cylinder, I was stradling the pins not on each side as I should have been.
I have gone to my local shop and we measured the one remaining ring it was 45.988 or somthing so 46 mm is what i will need .In the mean time he discoverd a sthil 029 or ms 290 has a 46mm x 1.5mm ring so he ordered me one today. Now just wait till it comes in.
Looking for a source for the fuel tank vent/check on the PL/SL series of saws. The one on my reciently completed PL-4 is hopelessly clogged up. It was making the engine run lean/race after a short cutting effort. I may have to use the vent/check from an early Homie XL-101 for now.
Looked thru all my IPL's and cannot find it called out even.
Part number is 65708.
Dug the screen wire out of each end of one. Found just a flat plastic disc about 1/10" diameter under the bottom screen.
I may just drill it for a small Homelite duckbill inserted from the top.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Just get up Aaron? Darn vampires workin' second shift.
It is the fuel tank vent/check valve I've been worrying over. Used one from an Early XL-101 in my latest PL-4 and it solved the problem. It was loosing power in the cut and racing at idle.
May be the root of my problems with the SL-11A also.
Edit: Found the part number for the fuel tank vent/check valve. #65708
Yeah I had just got up after a short sleep (and a long night before that) Carl. Coffee hadn't taken affect yet either, as is evident by the stellar reading skills I'd shown. Not doing much better today. At least I've got a better assignment this month, and only have two nights left in the week. Tonight and tomorrow night...
Auto oiler redux.
I needed a way to circumvent the shut off valve connected to the trigger/throttle on my two SL-4A's.
The valve prevents oil from flowing at idle and/or shut down when the tank is pressurised.
Normally, the only way to pump oil with the manual plunger is at W.O.T..
I propped the shut off valve open with a zip tie around the valve stem.
I needed a way to circumvent the shut off valve connected to the trigger/throttle on my two SL-4A's.
The valve prevents oil from flowing at idle and/or shut down when the tank is pressurised.
Normally, the only way to pump oil with the manual plunger is at W.O.T..
I propped the shut off valve open with a zip tie around the valve stem.
I plugged the auto oiler check valve with a slug of silicone gasket maker untill the time comes when I can find a replacement for the large duckbill.
Interesting collection of parts.
REMINGTON SUPER 754 CHAINSAW FOR PARTS OR REPAIR | eBay
Blue Wards parts and the cartoon bar.
REMINGTON SUPER 754 CHAINSAW FOR PARTS OR REPAIR | eBay
Blue Wards parts and the cartoon bar.
Wow, that thing looks like Frankenstine. Don't believe I've ever seen such a piece of work.
IPL for PL4/SL4
Hey
I know someone (Drew?) already sent me one of these, but I am darned if I can find it on my computer...anybody have the IPL or service manual for these guys? I'm thinking I need to look at replacing the crank seals...
Thanks
Hey
I know someone (Drew?) already sent me one of these, but I am darned if I can find it on my computer...anybody have the IPL or service manual for these guys? I'm thinking I need to look at replacing the crank seals...
Thanks
hutchkinkaid: P.M. your email to me and I'll send you a service manual.
Check Chainsawr in the above site sponsers for IPL's.
Check Chainsawr in the above site sponsers for IPL's.
Remington S L 9 I will need rings
Well the saw shop ring find did not work out.He had rings for a Husky 55 (or he said they were at least) but when we tried them they literally fell down over the piston were way too large. Then the tech miked the only orig ring left and the owner x refferenced the size and came up with a sthil 029 or 29 farm boss. So he ordered 1 for me ($30.00 ) it came in today and is also to big and not the correct thickness or grind? not sure what he was tring to tell me or if he was either.And that was too big as well.I am in need of at least 1 ring preferably 2. I am trying to remember what a earlier post said ( i just read it) ,....46mm maybe? from e-bay.I need some of you remmington owners to guide me to buying the correct rings.If you can send me the link to the e-bay spot i need to be at ,well that would be great.Thanks Jeff
Well the saw shop ring find did not work out.He had rings for a Husky 55 (or he said they were at least) but when we tried them they literally fell down over the piston were way too large. Then the tech miked the only orig ring left and the owner x refferenced the size and came up with a sthil 029 or 29 farm boss. So he ordered 1 for me ($30.00 ) it came in today and is also to big and not the correct thickness or grind? not sure what he was tring to tell me or if he was either.And that was too big as well.I am in need of at least 1 ring preferably 2. I am trying to remember what a earlier post said ( i just read it) ,....46mm maybe? from e-bay.I need some of you remmington owners to guide me to buying the correct rings.If you can send me the link to the e-bay spot i need to be at ,well that would be great.Thanks Jeff
Thank you carl
I just wanted to say thanks again . Carl gave me a link to get 2 new rings from E-Bay for a Rem SL-9 .I have been around the barn and back again on this old saw and requested help yesterday and Carl took the time to help me .If I knew how to give credits of what ever it is you guys give to each other I would .Maybe someone can tell me how to do this for him.Thanks again Jeff
I just wanted to say thanks again . Carl gave me a link to get 2 new rings from E-Bay for a Rem SL-9 .I have been around the barn and back again on this old saw and requested help yesterday and Carl took the time to help me .If I knew how to give credits of what ever it is you guys give to each other I would .Maybe someone can tell me how to do this for him.Thanks again Jeff
Super 75 carb re-build need help
View attachment 228297View attachment 228298View attachment 228299I just tried the 75 and it will sputter and run a few seconds but I think some issues lie in the carb.I will be needing some sort of carb kit if one exists ?
If you prime the cylinder or carb it will run 2-3 sec better if cylinder is primed instead of carb. I will post 3 or 4 pics of the carb I will need a kit i guess as the diaphram sounds like a papaer grocerie bag when flexed.Pretty stiff stuff. also I have two questions for now probably more later but here they are. BTW This is a Carter model NRD carb .
1) How do you get the carb mounting nuts tight? I can barely get a sm ignition wrench on the corner of the nut and pretty sure I will not be able to get it tight enough that way.My only option i can see is using a small cold chisel to tap the nuts around,I dont like that idea.
2) How do you get the spark plug tight there is no room behind the trigger mech to get a socket onto the plug? Was there a special tool for this? All I can do is use needle nose pliers to "snug " it up a little.I dont like this idea either.
View attachment 228297View attachment 228298View attachment 228299I just tried the 75 and it will sputter and run a few seconds but I think some issues lie in the carb.I will be needing some sort of carb kit if one exists ?
If you prime the cylinder or carb it will run 2-3 sec better if cylinder is primed instead of carb. I will post 3 or 4 pics of the carb I will need a kit i guess as the diaphram sounds like a papaer grocerie bag when flexed.Pretty stiff stuff. also I have two questions for now probably more later but here they are. BTW This is a Carter model NRD carb .
1) How do you get the carb mounting nuts tight? I can barely get a sm ignition wrench on the corner of the nut and pretty sure I will not be able to get it tight enough that way.My only option i can see is using a small cold chisel to tap the nuts around,I dont like that idea.
2) How do you get the spark plug tight there is no room behind the trigger mech to get a socket onto the plug? Was there a special tool for this? All I can do is use needle nose pliers to "snug " it up a little.I dont like this idea either.
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SUPER 75 Oil Plunger question
View attachment 228423View attachment 228424Is the plunger supposed to be bent like this? It will not move so I took the side cover off and opened the oil tank up. I wanted to see if there was an internal issue and there was none i could see. But when i took the plunger out to see if I could soak it to free it up it looked bent to me? When it is on the saw it is leaning back toward the operator some,I figured it was supposed to be for ease of use but it also seems to be bent a little.I took 1 photo then rolled it around about 180 degrees and took 1 mor photo, in that one I think you can see a little bend or sweep.Is this "sweep why it will not move
View attachment 228423View attachment 228424Is the plunger supposed to be bent like this? It will not move so I took the side cover off and opened the oil tank up. I wanted to see if there was an internal issue and there was none i could see. But when i took the plunger out to see if I could soak it to free it up it looked bent to me? When it is on the saw it is leaning back toward the operator some,I figured it was supposed to be for ease of use but it also seems to be bent a little.I took 1 photo then rolled it around about 180 degrees and took 1 mor photo, in that one I think you can see a little bend or sweep.Is this "sweep why it will not move
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
I've seen worse, but it may be a problem. Some taps with a soft faced hammer on a flat surface may cure the problem. Or make it worse.
#1: Grind the pee out of your extra 7/16" box end wrench so you can get it in there. Also helps while you have the carb. removed to shorten the studs 1/16" so they don't stick out of the nut any when tightened. Even shorter than the nut is thick will help. Yup, I've used a needle nose pliers and a caping chizel on them.
#2: Browse your local flea market for a cheapo flat sheet steel 13/16" wrench and use the correct plug. Your average CJ6 or CJ8 is not correct. When the proper plug is used (Champion J-6J or equavalent) the hex will fall between the top fin of the cylinder and the housing where the flat wrench can get a hold on it.
The above wrench is .150" thick, and it could be a tad thinner.
Note the difference in the hex location on the plugs.
Well she wont move now so I gotta try somthing.Thanks
Chuck it up in a vise and lean on it.
