Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Jim in the Wood said:
I have a 754 G that I am trying to bring back from the dead. In the gearcase to the chaindrive, I see that I've got to take the gears out in order to get at the clutch. Any idea how I do this? I'd prefer to know the proper way so that I don't break something that might be difficult to replace. I assume that the shaft that the chain drive bolts to unbolts to allow the gear and shaft to be removed, but I just don't know. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Jim
Click to expand...

Take some picutes and post them. I've never taken apart a remington gear drive. But just last night, I took apart a David Bradley gear drive.
It looked like this inside:
attachment.php


You can see the clutch attached to the crankshaft like normal. Instead of having the chain sproket on, that had the imput gear. So that came off easy. Just take the nut off, and it slid right off. On the back side of the larger Fiber gear, was the chain sproket. This was held on my a nut as well. Removed that. I could then drive the output shaft and gear through the bearings and they stayed as one.

Sounds simple.....only took me about 4 hours.

Hope this helps some. Can probably be more help with some pictures. And I really just want to see a 754 G :chainsaw:
 
UOTE=dff110;3570922]Take some picutes and post them. I've never taken apart a remington gear drive. But just last night, I took apart a David Bradley gear drive.
It looked like this inside:
attachment.php


You can see the clutch attached to the crankshaft like normal. Instead of having the chain sproket on, that had the imput gear. So that came off easy. Just take the nut off, and it slid right off. On the back side of the larger Fiber gear, was the chain sproket. This was held on my a nut as well. Removed that. I could then drive the output shaft and gear through the bearings and they stayed as one.

Sounds simple.....only took me about 4 hours.

Hope this helps some. Can probably be more help with some pictures. And I really just want to see a 754 G :chainsaw:[/QUOTE]

dff110,
I thought about how to remove the frontmost gear while driving home from work today and when I got to it, was able to get it apart in about 5 minutes. I now have it all apart except for the piston stuck in the jug. Out with the Marvel. mix in a little time, and we'll tap it with a brass drift in a few days. When I start reassembly, I'll post pictures, because now it's just parts in coffee cans and on my work bench.
PS: military info plate says it was manufactured 9/68. Just about my age.

Thanks for the interest, pictures to follow.

Jim
 
Just plain discouraged on super 75

Jeff Lary said:
well I just took the miffler assembly off and made a baffel myself I drilled the number "75" into it with 17 1/8 inch holes.If that is not enough vent I made a second one with a bunch of larger holes in it. I tell ya that old stuff looks kind of crude when compared to todays saws but they are well made and easy to take apart, and Thats a good thing I suppose !!
Click to expand...

I got the Ndr carb kit yesterday from Sugar Creek and today I put it in.I have gotten the old saw to run but it kept throwing the chain. (It was very stiff so it has been soaking for a month ) I figured well it gets to a stiff part then comes off the sproket thats all.so I kept taking the recoil off to put the chain back in place it was slipping off the inner edge closest to the engine. Then when i got her all together and tensioned right the recoil would not re-wind the rope. So it took it all apart again and the spring is ok but the drum does not seem to be engaging the spring so it is just free spooling and under NO tension at all now . Any suggestions that do not include explosives,... on second thougt..... NEW INFORMATION I think the spring is broken after all the small post on the edge is supposed to have the spring end wraped around is empty.Here are some pictures.View attachment 231704View attachment 231705
 
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Jeff Lary:

I'm not up on the right hand start Bantam types but: Do you have a large flat washer (fender washer) next to the spur sprocket?

Every spur/drum I've encountered has one to keep the chain on the spur. Without it, the chain will just travel off the edge.

Rewind spring: You may have to bend a more aggresive hook in the end so it catchs the recoil pulley.

Carl.
 
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Thanks Carl
You may be right about the washer the sl 9 I have has one of those but this one i dont think does.I will have to look and see.
As for the spring if you look at the photo at the outside of the wound spring you will see the spring very near the end w/ the hook is broken. If you look at about 7 o'clock you will see the pin / stud that ,the ouside end is supposed to be wraped around,....I think.
Can the broken end of a spring be re-bent back into the hook shape needed? Maybe if it was heated ? If so maybe this could be repaired.I think the inner spring end ( towards the very center) has plenty of "hook " it seems to be broken away fro the outside anchor point ?
 
Just closed a deal for this bad boy--SL-7A. Haven't really seen many of these, plenty of the 82cc saws, but not so many 95cc motors. Guy says it runs and oils great, very little smoking with the engine running. Anybody know how the SL and PL saws differ?

Chris B.

rem_sl7a_1.jpg

rem_sl7a_2.jpg

rem_sl7a_3.jpg
 
Jeff Lary said:
Thanks Carl
You may be right about the washer the sl 9 I have has one of those but this one i dont think does.I will have to look and see.
As for the spring if you look at the photo at the outside of the wound spring you will see the spring very near the end w/ the hook is broken. If you look at about 7 o'clock you will see the pin / stud that ,the ouside end is supposed to be wraped around,....I think.
Can the broken end of a spring be re-bent back into the hook shape needed? Maybe if it was heated ? If so maybe this could be repaired.I think the inner spring end ( towards the very center) has plenty of "hook " it seems to be broken away fro the outside anchor point ?
Click to expand...

Thats what I was thinking, the spring is not anchored. Its always something with these older beasts, and then its not and they work. Keep after it. And thats how I would try and fix it; bend it back, if it snaps, heat and bend.
 
While I'm on the subject of Remingtons, I also have this military 754G. Picked it up last year with a broken handle. Just recently acquired the parts to fix it and finish it off. Too bad it is missing the brass tag for the recoil housing but one on the gearcase says it all. I think the missing plate is simply operating instructions. Just like the tag says, it came with an 18" hardnose bar. Nothing fancy for the soldiers, just reliable.

Chris B.

Rem_mil_2.jpg

Rem_mil_1.jpg

Rem_mil_3.jpg


Where does one find a new plug for this thing? :bang:

Rem_mil_4.jpg
 
cbfarmall said:
While I'm on the subject of Remingtons, I also have this military 754G. Picked it up last year with a broken handle. Just recently acquired the parts to fix it and finish it off. Too bad it is missing the brass tag for the recoil housing but one on the gearcase says it all. I think the missing plate is simply operating instructions. Just like the tag says, it came with an 18" hardnose bar. Nothing fancy for the soldiers, just reliable.

Chris B.

Rem_mil_2.jpg

Rem_mil_1.jpg

Rem_mil_3.jpg


Where does one find a new plug for this thing? :bang:

Rem_mil_4.jpg
Click to expand...


That looks just like mine, before I took it apart. I also am missing the instruction plate, but I do have the piece that runs from the jug to the back of the handle. Yours is about 6 months older. Where did you find parts? Thinking I'll need a piston and rings.
Jim
 
cbfarmall said:
Just closed a deal for this bad boy--SL-7A. Haven't really seen many of these, plenty of the 82cc saws, but not so many 95cc motors. Guy says it runs and oils great, very little smoking with the engine running. Anybody know how the SL and PL saws differ?

Chris B.
Click to expand...


I had one that ran great but was missing the oiler plunger. Acres said it would pull a 40 so
hung it on and made a few cuts after soaking the chain with oil.


One cool thing about this saw is the decomp switch and high idle are intregrated into one.
Sold mine a few years ago.

CIMG3584-1.jpg


CIMG3601.jpg


Side by side with an SXL 925.

CIMG3541.jpg
 
Jeff Lary said:
Ok Bud I will have to try it.We are going on vacation at the end of the week I will be glad to give these old saws a rest for sure.
Click to expand...

Well I did have a broken spring end on the recoil anchor and i did make a new bend in it. I had to heat it to red then pounded it into shape around a screwdriver shank to get the correct diam hook.
Then I tried to get the clutch off to replace a washer to keep the chain on the sproket, but no go. The clutch was installed by Zuse himself no human could have ever gotten it on that tight. It was either him or God himself that tightened it. So I again had to give up there.
So I resorted to getting it running, and after a few pulls she sat there idleing.It ran good too, but rich so I let it run for about 2-3 min then got out the screwdriver.... to adj the L speed that went well, did the high speed that went well., then I decided that she needed a little less Idle speed and it stalled.And I cannot get her to restart.
How the H*LL did the old timers ever get anything done? No wonder some were slow to get on the "power saw" band wagon.I would have kept my two man cross cut as well.
 
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Jeff:
On my first 75A I was unsucessfull in getting the clutch to unscrew beating it with a punch and hammer. I asked an OPE repairman friend how he did it and he told me to................

"Get a bigger hammer and get mean with it".

Followed his guidence and got it off.

Left hand threads, b.t.w..
 

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