Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just picked up another 330 (3rd one I've had but it's been a while) and was wondering what the difference was going to be between it and the craftsman 3.3 that I got for free:rock: that is waiting on a muffler. You've pretty much summed it up for me again Mark.

I forgot to add the 330 got a much bigger carb.
 
I have no idea what acceptable "play" there might be. If it was running OK before, and now with the new rod it is less "play" seems like it should work though.

I don't know if the saw was running before i replace the rod because i didn't have the coil.Mark sent me one a couple days ago.It is really strange how an engine works with the rod have this"play" on the crankshaft.It might be like this from the factory.Τhey might using metals on the crankshaft which when the crank warms up,it maybe expands and the "play" disappear.I don't know,i am curious.The fact is that the saw is working fine.
 
I don't know if the saw was running before i replace the rod because i didn't have the coil.Mark sent me one a couple days ago.It is really strange how an engine works with the rod have this"play" on the crankshaft.It might be like this from the factory.Τhey might using metals on the crankshaft which when the crank warms up,it maybe expands and the "play" disappear.I don't know,i am curious.The fact is that the saw is working fine.

Kostas, are you talking about lateral play (side to side) or radial play (up and down) ?
 
Dayton 4z397

When I got home from The Iowa GTG it was setting on my door step :D.
I tore into it on Sun. and noticed it is a 3700 :msp_biggrin: which looks like I need a piston.
I also noticed that the starter pulley has metal pins insted of being all plastic that mate to the flywheel dogs. I thought that the 4000 only used the metal? But this seems to be an earlier saw. So did all of the early ones in this series have the metal on the pulley and later ones have plastic except for the 4000's ?

Thanks Scott
 
When I got home from The Iowa GTG it was setting on my door step :D.
I tore into it on Sun. and noticed it is a 3700 :msp_biggrin: which looks like I need a piston.
I also noticed that the starter pulley has metal pins insted of being all plastic that mate to the flywheel dogs. I thought that the 4000 only used the metal? But this seems to be an earlier saw. So did all of the early ones in this series have the metal on the pulley and later ones have plastic except for the 4000's ?

Thanks Scott

Scott, the PP375, which is an embellished 3700, also has a 4000 style recoil. 375 also usually has the 4000 style muffler and AF/AF cover. Congrats! Sounds like a great find.
 
Last edited:
When I got home from The Iowa GTG it was setting on my door step :D.
I tore into it on Sun. and noticed it is a 3700 :msp_biggrin: which looks like I need a piston.
I also noticed that the starter pulley has metal pins insted of being all plastic that mate to the flywheel dogs. I thought that the 4000 only used the metal? But this seems to be an earlier saw. So did all of the early ones in this series have the metal on the pulley and later ones have plastic except for the 4000's ?

Thanks Scott




Scott,

It is almost impossible to ever say ALL or ONLY when talking about our beloved Poulans.
And when it comes to the rebadged ones ALL bets are off!



Mike
 
Scott,

It is almost impossible to ever say ALL or ONLY when talking about our beloved Poulans.
And when it comes to the rebadged ones ALL bets are off!



Mike

Kinda like an old AMC,LOL.
Glad to see you made it home safe. I would have liked to have stayed and listened to you, but it was my wedding annv. so I thought I better head for home. It sounded good from what I heard.

Scott
 
Kostas, are you talking about lateral play (side to side) or radial play (up and down) ?

I was talking about radial play,the lateral as far as i know is acceptable.The fact is that i tested it a few hours ago and it seems that that little radial play it had,now is gone.I am sure that when i assembled the rod to the crank,it had a little radial play but after i run it a little,now it has not.STRANGE THINGS.
 
I was talking about radial play,the lateral as far as i know is acceptable.The fact is that i tested it a few hours ago and it seems that that little radial play it had,now is gone.I am sure that when i assembled the rod to the crank,it had a little radial play but after i run it a little,now it has not.STRANGE THINGS.

Could it be that it was dry before and now oily after you have run it ?
 
Poulan 2750 carb kit info

If it has a Walbro then the K-10 wat is the kit you need.

In cases anyone is interested:

Micro XXV with Walbro WA carb needs K10-WAT
Poulan 2750 with Walbro 529 carb needs K20-WAT

My craftsman/poulan xxv definately needed a carb rebuild. There was some amber colored goo stuck in there. I took the muffler apart and screen had a bunch of carbon plugging it up so I took the torch to that. Then thought about it and left the muffler screen out. Got it all put back together and dialed in pretty good. Smokes a lot though.
Needs a fuel filter.

The 2750 just needed a carb kit and some retuning but it fires up pretty good and im just waiting on the air filter to come in the mail! Took the limiter screws off the carb which was first time I did that. Bar and chain in great condition.

Also got dads Echo PE2400 carb kit put in and the little edger really sings.

Super 2 is coming along. Put Reed valve gasket in and carb gasket in. I hate the single adjustment carb with a passion. But I think I got it dialed in a 3/4 of a turn out. Might try the dual adjustment carb from my XL2 parts saw.
 
Last edited:
It seems that I remember you saying that the 330 had some carb issue's. What were the issue's and what carb will interchange to fix it if there is a problem when I get it?

Later 330's used a Walbro HDA-164 carbs and some gave trouble. Poulan replaced them under warranty with a earlier version HDA-137 carb.
 
attachment.php
I got a chance today to work on this little beauty, it's a Craftsman 3.7 and I cleaned the carb and put a new fuel line and vent line in it. It's still a little harder to start than it should be and doesn't have the power I thought it would, maybe I haven't maxed out the carb adjustments yet. Compression seemed a little weak but I thought I'd worry about that later, got too much to do right now.
 
Could it be that it was dry before and now oily after you have run it ?

You are right Scott,it could be this.The fact is that now the rod is ok and once i dissasembled the saw,i will give it a crankcase pressure to see what's about the seals.Torrington has a very tiny play,which i think is acceptable too for that kind of bearing, but when i install the recoil assembly(it has a bearing too),the play disapeares.I think that i am ok about this,i will check sometime in the day the seals and the only problem left is the black mix coming out from the exhaust.I have ordered a new duckbill and a new carb kit and i hope this will fix it.We'll see.
 
You are right Scott,it could be this.The fact is that now the rod is ok and once i dissasembled the saw,i will give it a crankcase pressure to see what's about the seals.Torrington has a very tiny play,which i think is acceptable too for that kind of bearing, but when i install the recoil assembly(it has a bearing too),the play disapeares.I think that i am ok about this,i will check sometime in the day the seals and the only problem left is the black mix coming out from the exhaust.I have ordered a new duckbill and a new carb kit and i hope this will fix it.We'll see.

Make sure and check the governor on that carb. That can malfunction and cause a very over rich condition. Probably best to just block it off.
 
I posted this in another thread. It might be old news for some of y'all, or useful info for others. Here it is:

There has been a recent thread or two where the incestious relationship between Skilsaw, Frontier, Trail, Jonsered, etc. was mentioned.

I ran across this Skilsaw operating guide on eBay, and thought it was worth sharing. The two Skilsaws shown (listed as models 1620, 1622, 1624, 1634) appear to be Poulans, maybe a S25CVA & a 2300CVA. I saved the image to my computer for future reference.

SKILSAW Chain Saw Operating Guide | eBay
 
Mark,either the carb is not a governed one or i can't find the governor.


It's a big fat screw on the side. I guess you take it out and use something to block it off in there and screw it back in. Might want to run a search on this thread.
 
Last edited:
Questions Regarding Poulan Pro 4218 Chainsaw

I have a few questions. I currently have an 18" bar on my Poulan 4218avx, which came with the saw. However, would it place less stress on the saw if I replace the original bar with an 16" bar? I really do not need an 18" bar. Which bar do you recommend? Would I need to change the sprocket to accomodate the new bar? In addition, I always use stihl chains, but is there any other chain that would be better that you would recommend? Thank you in advance for your response, Islero :msp_smile:
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top