i need some ideas guys on chain sharpening

[o8f150]

i decided the other day i am going to retire the grinder and start filing again,, i need some ideas on holding a chain off of a saw to file it,, the only 2 ideas i came up with is using 2 2x4's in the vise and sandwiching the chain between the 2 or clamping an old bar in the vise and filing that way,, the only problem with the bar idea that i can figure is that the chain won't stay secure enough to file,, to me it should be able to be tightened,, when i go cut i always take extra chains so i can just switch out and then sharpen later when i get home,,does this make any sense to what i am asking??? any ideas???

 

[mdavlee]

You can use a pair of vise grips on each end of an old bar and it will hold it pretty tight. I clamp in the slot and then on the other end.

 

[CTYank]

i decided the other day i am going to retire the grinder and start filing again,, i need some ideas on holding a chain off of a saw to file it,, the only 2 ideas i came up with is using 2 2x4's in the vise and sandwiching the chain between the 2 or clamping an old bar in the vise and filing that way,, the only problem with the bar idea that i can figure is that the chain won't stay secure enough to file,, to me it should be able to be tightened,, when i go cut i always take extra chains so i can just switch out and then sharpen later when i get home,,does this make any sense to what i am asking??? any ideas???

Seems a bit make-work to me. Over some years, I've found that the simplest way for me to sharpen saw chain is on the bar, with Granberg file guide. Been using the same one for ~35 years. Gives very consistent angles & ht. Trivial to set depth gauges. Razor-sharp edges with minimum metal removal.

 

[TK]

Take the vise off your grinder and voila.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Two pieces of angle iron in a bench vise make a nice chain vise.

 

[dingeryote]

For off the saw filing, I put an old 16" Stihl bar in the vice and let the loop droop below and weight by hanging a bucket off of the loop with a C- clamp. Holds things just fine, and advancing the chain just takes a lift on the bucket. I file one handed and get ahold of the chain with the off hand though.

One of our members, "Tree Machine" went to all kinds of tinkering, and developed a gizmo(Chainmeister) that tightens up the loop on a bar in a vice, and takes about 3 seconds to get the loop on and off. Last I knew it was in production and carried by one of our sponsors.

I got to tinker with the Prototype, and it was slicker than snot on a doorknob, but havn't gotten hands on a production unit yet.

I'll go see if I can't find a link for ya.

ETA:
Found it!! Chainmeister at Tree stuff.
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=229&item=1392

Check out the Vids too, as they explain the thing better than I could.
Crazy Jim the "Tree Machine" really put some thought into the thing.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[mdavlee]

That is a nice looking tool there. Wish it weren't so expensive.

 

[Mastermind]

I just clamp the saw with the bar and chain attached in the vice. I just got a McCulloch Nyburg guide that works great too. With it you can mount a double bevel file or a round file.

 

[MtnHermit]

Your post got me thinking, yes it hurts.

Why not clamp an old bar in your vise, then use C-clamps at either end going groove-to-groove. Need roughly 4" C-clamps to span the bar with the chain on the top. Perhaps a wood block to protect the chain. Perhaps as suggested a ViseGrip in the front, C-clamp in the rear.

I have a similar need, I may try this and post a pic.

 

[Somesawguy]

For what it's worth, I touch up my chain every time I refuel. It doesn't take that long, and honestly, I think I can touch the chain up faster than I could swap it out with another one. Each cutter gets 5 swipes with a file. A sharpie works great to mark the first cutter, so you'll know when you've gone all the way around.

Bring a spare just in case you really bugger up the chain on some rocks, but I think you'll find that you don't really need to swap them out.

Food for thought. :msp_smile:

 

[Saw Dr.]

A piece of angle iron at the big box is just a few bucks. You need to get one with a relatively "sharp" outside corner, as that is where the chain will ride. You may need to bevel the ends to make the chain feed smoothly. I have been doing this for a couple of years now. It is insanely simple, and works well. I may "upgrade" to one with ramps on the ends someday soon, just because.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Take the vise off your grinder and voila.

Funny this topic came up. I ground a chain for a guy yesterday. After looking at it and feeling the edge, I wasn't happy with it. The guy is a machinist so I wanted to make sure this chain was sharp. So, I got out the file and used the grinder vise to hold the chain. Worked very well. I just flipped the chain to do the other side. The cam lock was very quick.

On another note: When grinding the depth gauges, I find if I grind one side and flip the chain to grind the other side there's much less chatter.

 

[MtnHermit]

I ground a chain for a guy yesterday. After looking at it and feeling the edge, I wasn't happy with it.

Do you suppose it's the concave profile of a filed tooth vs. the flat profile of a ground tooth?

 

[Oldtimer]

Find a garbage hardwood tree about 4-5" in diameter, bore a hole through it- at just under tit high- and at about a 25-30* angle upwards. You might need to try a couple times before ya get the right set up.
Put the bar in there, and file from the first accessible tooth nearest the tree back to the muffler. Then switch sides and do it again. Then take the file, and while picking up slightly on the saw, move the sharpened tooth nearest the muffler to the tree, and repeat the sharpening process. You will see the first tooth ya sharpened when ya get back to it.

If you want, a spare bar will work the same.

Like this.

 

[rms61moparman]

I have a little 2" clamp on Stanley vise that I use to sharpen my chains in the winter (or now that I'm laid up) clamp it right to the desk and put the drive link tangs in the jaws and tighten it up.
Sharpen a tooth and advance to the next.


Mike

 

[MtnHermit]

Have to remember that, slicker than a vise. I think I would stick the B&C all the way through and not have to deal with the power head.

Good idea!!!

 

[SawTroll]

For off the saw filing, I put an old 16" Stihl bar in the vice and let the loop droop below and weight by hanging a bucket off of the loop with a C- clamp. Holds things just fine, and advancing the chain just takes a lift on the bucket. I file one handed and get ahold of the chain with the off hand though.

I also hold the chain with off hand, but on the saw - then I look carefully at what I am doing with the file.

Also, I don't use guides, unless for initial "mass filing" on damaged teeth (Husky roller guides). I always use progressive single tooth guides on the rakers though, as I don't want any guesswork there (Husky plate or FOP, depending on the chain model).

 

[SawTroll]

Find a garbage hardwood tree about 4-5" in diameter, bore a hole through it- at just under tit high- and at about a 25-30* angle upwards. You might need to try a couple times before ya get the right set up.
Put the bar in there, and file from the first accessible tooth nearest the tree back to the muffler. Then switch sides and do it again. Then take the file, and while picking up slightly on the saw, move the sharpened tooth nearest the muffler to the tree, and repeat the sharpening process. You will see the first tooth ya sharpened when ya get back to it.

If you want, a spare bar will work the same.

Like this.

Good ol' trick, that actually works well for a touchup in the woods. :biggrin:

 

[o8f150]

a lot of good ideas

 

[SawTroll]

.....

ETA:
Found it!! Chainmeister at Tree stuff.
Tree Stuff - ChainMeister Filing Device

Check out the Vids too, as they explain the thing better than I could.
Crazy Jim the "Tree Machine" really put some thought into the thing.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

The chain will still tilt a little in the bar slot when you put the file to it, so you will have to compensate for that.