Homelite Chainsaws

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Lots of great 2000-3100G info here. Chris all the 2100 saws I've seen in person (only 5 or 6 so far) have had the winged bolt rather than the slotted bolt. They may have all came through the same dealer.

Need to look, but for some reason thinking the winged bolt is a little bigger in diameter than the slotted one. That means the cover has to have a bigger hole in it also of course. Probably wrong, but it sure seems that way thinking about 'em. Pretty sure according to the books the "plain" 2100 was the only one that's suppoed to come with the wing type bolt just as Chris said. I do remember there's a service bulletin about using the rubber O-ring on the slotted type retainer to help prevent cracks from vibration.

Dan
 
Not sure what the one on my parts saw looks like, but I'll take a look in the AM, and it's yours if it's any good and you need it. Mine's pretty much bare case now, so I'll be able to see how it comes apart pretty easy for ya.




This is the old Homey that followed me home today. Not sure yet if it's a 1000 or 1020, not an auto oiler.

ARRRGH! Pic uploading isn't working for me right now, and it's time for a nap, so I'll give a quick rundown on it and try again with pics tomorrow.

The seller moved here from Idaho years back, and this saw came back with him. It started life as a logger's saw, and the guy gave me the name, but dang if I can remember it right now. The seller looked me up on here, and said he's registered here, maybe he will chime in with the rest of the story. (I have enough trouble listening to people when I'm just talking to them, when I'm looking over a possible new toy, a lot of it comes through my brain as blah, blah, blah :biggrin: ) At any rate, it's been taking up space mostly since he moved here, he's got a newer saw for the limited cutting he does.

It shows the scars from being a work saw, but it seems pretty good mechanically. Compression is real strong, it's complete, all the levers, knobs, etc. work, the bar (shorter than I thought from the pics, 24") is pretty good yet, just needs a little dressing. It's got a Homelite (I think) chain - H in a box logo on the drivers, .404. It's got a rim sprocket on it. Fuel tank empty and clean, the oil tank looked to have some ATF left in it. It looks good enough that I'm gonna dump a little mix in tomorrow just to see if it'll run, and right now I wouldn't bet against it.

The not-so-good: There's a weld (JB Weld maybe) repair on the bottom left crankcase half, but it looks to have been that way for ages, and is probably just as solid as it looks. The bottom of the wrap handlebar has some pretty significant truck rash, with the tube partly worn away on one side. It's missing one attaching screw there, but I didn't look real close to see if it's broken off or just rattled out. The muffler is rotted out in several spots (case and cover). That's all I found so far.

If it doesn't fire off when I try it tomorrow, it will head to the project shed till I get more time (and a couple other in process saws finished), but it's gonna probably be the next one I tackle - it's got plenty of potential compared to some of the future projects in the shed - I might spend more time cleaning some of those saws than this one will take to run (hopefully)

Third time's the charm with pics I guess. They're not really great, taken down in the wood room with poor lighting and flash. I'll try for better ones tomorrow.

Good score Steve. Pull the starter. That'll tell you if it's an XP1000 or XP1020. Two pawls mounted on the flywheel mean XP1020. Overrunning bearing in the pully and a tube extension on the flywheel mean XP1000.

That bar looks like it could be a Windsor TXL/UXL (Oregon D096/D196) mount meant for an XL-series Homelite (XL-12, SXL-925, etc). Profile looks too 'thin' for a large frame Homelite (Windsor HO, Oregon FO14) bar. The XL-mount bars will mount up on a large frame Homelite (both have 3/8" slots) and the adjuster will often work right (sometimes with a little filing), but the tail profile is too narrow. This means the oiler slot on the bar plate is partially uncovered, and the oil just leaks out and drips off the saw rather than getting to the chain. Also, the chain rivets will eat into the bar plates, bar mount pad on the drivecase, and clutch cover. Look closely when you pull that clutch cover off to see if things are OK...

Bar Mount Pattern: 14

Bar Mount Pattern: 16
 
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Added to my Homelite collection today

Hi Guys,

I purchased a 651 as a runner today. Only saw a photo which sadly is no longer up on Kijiji. It looked pretty good but will need some fettling to be a reliable runner. In the same deal I'm getting a Jonsered 49sp which I'm told is an excellent runner which has a chain brake. I couldn't find 651 on Acres site so it maybe a Canadian version although too early for a mandatory chain brake. Should be picking them up on Monday and I'll post pics. I'll share what I paid when they are safety home.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Lee

CAD rules
 
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Lots of great 2000-3100G info here. Chris all the 2100 saws I've seen in person (only 5 or 6 so far) have had the winged bolt rather than the slotted bolt. They may have all came through the same dealer.


I have at least 10 or so of these 2100's and all have
the slotted screw for the cylinder cover. Never seen
the winged screw.




Lee
 
Got a points/coil setup for the super 2 in the mail. Swapped the points in and she's got spark and runs! Condenser must've died....
 
guys if u know were i can find a set of rings for homelite xl-925 super

How many times you gonna post this? Listen to advice on here. But if you must...ever heard of ebay?

none on ebay thanks ..does any body have a link to her web site it would help. sorry about that







nothing wrong for a guy to ask. thats what this site is for.

people ask me for parts all the time.


sometimes they get lucky..



I have few new SLX925 rings and never would of known he needed them till he asked.

seek and you shall find, knock and the door will be opened. :msp_wink:
 
Hi Guys,

I purchased a 651 as a runner today. Only saw a photo which sadly is no longer up on Kijiji. It looked pretty good but will need some fettling to be a reliable runner. In the same deal I'm getting a Jonsered 49sp which I'm told is an excellent runner which has a chain brake. I couldn't find 651 on Acres site so it maybe a Canadian version although too early for a mandatory chain brake. Should be picking them up on Monday and I'll post pics. I'll share what I paid when they are safety home.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Lee

CAD rules

I saw the listing you posted in the ebay thread. In the seller's pics, there was only one obstructed pic of the mystery Homelite. Could only really see the clutch cover. To me, that cover looks like what was on the Solo built Homelites of the mid 1980's, such as a 340. Does the saw actually have "651" badging or a model # tag with "651" on it? Post some pics of the saw. Does it look like the saw in the Acres listing for the 340?

Model Profile: 340
 
nothing wrong for a guy to ask. thats what this site is for.

people ask me for parts all the time.


sometimes they get lucky..



I have few new SLX925 rings and never would of known he needed them till he asked.

seek and you shall find, knock and the door will be opened. :msp_wink:

It's fine that he asked. Asking every 18 minutes or so in the same thread is a bit much...


Not sure where he "heard" that 155 PSI was a low reading for these saws either. He was asked that and didn't answer. In a PM to me he asked me if 155 PSI was a low reading and if the saw needed rings because of it. Hadn't gotten a chance to answer his PM before his multiple posts in this thread...


While we're asking..................I could use a set of the thick #55537 rings for my XL903.:D
 
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I saw the listing you posted in the ebay thread. In the seller's pics, there was only one obstructed pic of the mystery Homelite. Could only really see the clutch cover. To me, that cover looks like what was on the Solo built Homelites of the mid 1980's, such as a 340. Does the saw actually have "651" badging or a model # tag with "651" on it? Post some pics of the saw. Does it look like the saw in the Acres listing for the 340?

Model Profile: 340

This saw wasn't on Ebay and the picture I saw (on Kijiji, down now) was from the recoil side. I have the Solo built 300 and it is nothing like that. The only restricted pic in that group was the Jonsered 49sp which I also purchased, both runners but neither have chain brake. I pick these up Monday and post pics for all to see, at least of the Hommie.

Regards,

Lee:blob2:
 
The pics I saw were in a kijjii listing link posted in the "i saw it on ebay/CL" thread. I didn't say I saw it on ebay. The starter side pic (on the table) was of the Jonsered. The obstructed clutch cover pic was not a shot of a 49SP. Maybe a Homelite 410 with a chainbrake. Again.....take pics. Post pics. Check for a model # tag or at least decals with the model #...
 
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sent u pm sawbones super xl-925 used the thin rings right ???

Should use the thin #69452 rings unless it has the 77cc cylinder/piston set (instead of the 82cc P/C set). 2.0625" bore if it's 82cc, and 2.0" bore if it's 77cc. You can tell thick from thin rings by looking at the rings through the exhaust port. You should remove your muffler cover and take a peek at things before you go any further anyways. Look for scoring. 155 PSI is a fine compression reading for these saws.

You can also measure the bore through the port. Put a straw or popsicle stick in the bore until it rests on the far side. Carefully run the piston up until it pinches the stick between the piston and the exhaust port. Wiggle the stick a bit to mark it. Take the stick out and measure from the end to the mark...
 
You can also measure the bore through the port. Put a straw or popsicle stick in the bore until it rests on the far side. Carefully run the piston up until it pinches the stick between the piston and the exhaust port. Wiggle the stick a bit to mark it. Take the stick out and measure from the end to the mark...[/QUOTE]


Have you done this before?:D
 
You can also measure the bore through the port. Put a straw or popsicle stick in the bore until it rests on the far side. Carefully run the piston up until it pinches the stick between the piston and the exhaust port. Wiggle the stick a bit to mark it. Take the stick out and measure from the end to the mark...


Have you done this before?:D

Once or twice Ian...



Also posted these same directions once or twice (or 10 times) before...:D
 
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