Homelite Chainsaws

[jerrycmorrow]

And, I want to ride in it. Just one more time. No seats, no doors, on my arse, legs hanging out................




OH, and a pilot who knows his stuff.

i'm with ya bro. preferably one of our old medevac pilots. be way cool with no hostiles on the ground. i also want one of them old indians. dam, when you really need a time machine

 

[RandyMac]

I leave town and you guys slough off?

 

[cbfarmall]

Just finished working on this thing, 995D. Got it from a member here, needed a bit more work than expected but ultimately worth it. I installed new main bearings and seals, a new cylinder (the old one had chipped plating) and news rings, the old piston was good. The clutch was trashed so I pulled apart my parts C-91 and scavenged the shoes and springs. I had to reuse the spider, but it needs to be replaced whenever I find one. I set this particular direct drive up with 1/2" just to see how it handles. It's what the saws came with stock, according to the IPL. I did rob a couple minor parts from my other runners just to get this one complete--don't worry they won't be down for long. The only thing I'll be missing is the rubber cover for the spark plug.

I have the muffler for it, but haven't brought myself to install my last new one. I need to get to my local source to see what they have left for these things.

Here's the pics. No videos yet. I will say this may be the loudest I saw own, just a straight exhaust. Even on the longer shot picture you can see the piston.

Saw gave me a scare when I first tried to start it. I primed it and was cranking and cranking and cranking and cranking. Just about ready to pull the flywheel when it dawned on me the switch was off! Fired on the very next pull.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

I leave town and you guys slough off?

Sorry, I tried to get one in just under the deadline but apparently failed.

Chris B.

 

[fearofpavement]

Zip with a bow? was left behind by "ex". That all the seller knows. located west Georgia.

Homelite Bow Chain Saw

Just heard from the seller that it was running when he left but she couldn't get it started. (don't know if she had a clue or not)

 

[cbfarmall]

Zip with a bow? was left behind by "ex". That all the seller knows. located west Georgia.

Homelite Bow Chain Saw

Just heard from the seller that it was running when he left but she couldn't get it started. (don't know if she had a clue or not)

At that price, it's worth grabbing. Especially with the bow.

Chris B.

 

[homelitejim]

That is a gear drive with a bow, not a zip but probably a wiz.

 

[homelitejim]

well I got the 990D down to the bare essentials, now I will have to wait for my puller to return home to get the flywheel off. Does anyone know how the clutch comes off? Looks to be pressed on but I wanted to check before I start muscling it.

Here is a little better look of the piston through the exhaust port, I will have to wait for the flywheel to come off so I can get to the cylinder bolts on that side.

 

[Eccentric]

Zip with a bow? was left behind by "ex". That all the seller knows. located west Georgia.

Homelite Bow Chain Saw

Just heard from the seller that it was running when he left but she couldn't get it started. (don't know if she had a clue or not)

At that price, it's worth grabbing. Especially with the bow.

Chris B.

That is a gear drive with a bow, not a zip but probably a wiz.

Yep. It's worth grabbing for that price.............and it's not a Zip. By the shape of the tank, it's one of the Super Wiz variants. Since the tank is red, it's probably either a SW77 or SW80.

well I got the 990D down to the bare essentials, now I will have to wait for my puller to return home to get the flywheel off. Does anyone know how the clutch comes off? Looks to be pressed on but I wanted to check before I start muscling it.

Here is a little better look of the piston through the exhaust port, I will have to wait for the flywheel to come off so I can get to the cylinder bolts on that side.

Jim, the clutch nut (which holds the drum in place) is RH thread. The clutch spider (and the portion of the crank that it threads on) is LH thread. Sounds goofy..........but those crankshafts have both RH and LH threaded sections. Turn the nut CCW to remove it. Then turn the clutch hub CW to remove it.

 

[cbfarmall]

990D clutch will be double-keyed, straight-shaft. I've never had one of those clutches, direct or gear drive, pull off hard. Sometimes it'll slip off with gravity, or maybe use the drum to slap it loose, you might have to thread a couple bolts and pull it straight off. Certainly not like the friggin' Pioneer clutches I've dealt with lately.

Chris B.

 

[Eccentric]

990D clutch will be double-keyed, straight-shaft. I've never had one of those clutches, direct or gear drive, pull off hard. Sometimes it'll slip off with gravity, or maybe use the drum to slap it loose, you might have to thread a couple bolts and pull it straight off. Certainly not like the friggin' Pioneer clutches I've dealt with lately.

Chris B.

I'd spaced and forgotten that the clutch on these saws is an outboard unit (nut of course doesn't hold the drum on............the clutch hub does). One thing is confusing to me however. I have a 3rd Ed Service Manual, and it says (on P-79) that the clutch hub is held to the shaft with left hand threads for the 775D, 995D, and 995G. The 4th Ed has the same info on P-78. Was the clutch different for the 995 saws than the earlier saws of this series? I don't have an earlier eddition service manual. Just 3rd, 4th, and 5th. I'm going to look at the IPL (which does cover the whole range from 9-23 thru 995G) to see if I can unconfuse myself...

 

[Eccentric]

Found it on P.8 and P.11 in the IPL. Looks like all the saws but the 995's used the keyed clutch spider/crankshaft, while the 995's used the threaded clutch/crank. Good to know, as I'll be pulling my clutch (900D) at some point. The SM does mention that the 'pressed on' keyed clutches (specifically mentioned Zips) will require a puller to remove.

Looks like there were 5/8" keyed clutches, 5/8" threaded clutches, 3/4" keyed clutches, and 3/4" threaded clutches. Clutch covers and gearcase covers were different for 'narrow' and 'wide' clutch saws too. More to this saw series than I realized....


Anybody here have the earlier SM's that cover the earlier saws in this series? The 3rd and 4th Ed's only cover the 995's, and the 5th doesn't even cover this saw family....

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron, I think we will be picking this up on the way south.

:msp_tongue:

I'm not intending to keep it, but the timing is good and it won't get grabbed by someone who will part it out.
I might let Aaron do an R&R on and sell it to someone who wants it. Anyways, it is almost worth the cost for the bar alone.
I am in a downsizing mode, going to pare things down to a manageable level, but that doesn't mean that I won't be keeping an eye on local saws.

My guess is also 1050 or XP1020A. Just not seeing a decomp lever (although the angle of the pic makes it hard to see for sure). Muffler cover doesn't look right for a 2000 either. Wish we had a pic clearly showing the back of the cylinder shield. Heck......we'll know for certain Saturday. If I get cell signal I will post our findings.

Looking at Randy's pics again, I see what could be the metal blockoff plugs on that carb box (for saws used with the Walbro SDC). Those plugs go in place of the carb needles and rubber grommets that are on Tillotson HL equipped saws. SDC's were only used on some later 1050's. There was also a 'kit' sold by Homelite dealers. Was meant to retrofit an HL equipped saw with the SDC, the unique manifold for it, the 'spitback tube', and those plugs for the carb box. Pic's pretty grainey, so I can't tell for sure however. I can see that the starter handle is 'wrong'....:jester:

Well the saw is home on my bench right now. Randy had picked it up on Saturday and had me take it home yesterday. The 'plan' is to get it running and sell it for the Emperor. May have to work something out with him so it stays here however. I suspect it's not leaving my shop again unless it's going out to cut some big wood or got to a GTG. It's in dang nice shape. Only cracked part we've seen on it so far is the muffler cover, and that looks like it'll be fine. Has a .404-8 spur on it. Wierd to see a spur sprocket instead of a rim drive setup on these saws.

The bar looks to be a 31" RN. It has "3158" stamped on the bar (which 'usually' means a 31" .058G bar)......but the chain on the saw is Oregon 52. That's .063G. Maybe somebody opened up the rails. I have a 24" Oregon hardnose (large frame Mac mount) that's marked "2458", yet the rails measure out to .063G and .063G chain fits perfectly. Somebody probably opened up those rails as well.

Exact age of the saw is a mystery. It does indeed have the brass carb box plugs and the Walbro SDC carb setup. That would indicate a LATE 1050. The paint/decal scheme on the saw doesn't look right to me for a 1050 of that age however. Those SDC setups were available as an 'upgrade kit' from Homelite. Maybe somebody 'updated' a 1050. There's no green paint on the saw, so I'm thinking it's a 1050 rather than an XP1020A.

Were any of the later XP1020A or Super XP1020AO saws red and black (without the green accents that I've seen on XP1000's and XP1020's)? Not only is the MN/SN tag missing from the flywheel cover, but somebody actually filled the holes on the cover and painted it. Looks like it was done long ago, as there's not obvious newer paint on the cover...

 

[cbfarmall]

Found it on P.8 and P.11 in the IPL. Looks like all the saws but the 995's used the keyed clutch spider/crankshaft, while the 995's used the threaded clutch/crank. Good to know, as I'll be pulling my clutch (900D) at some point. The SM does mention that the 'pressed on' keyed clutches (specifically mentioned Zips) will require a puller to remove.

Looks like there were 5/8" keyed clutches, 5/8" threaded clutches, 3/4" keyed clutches, and 3/4" threaded clutches. Clutch covers and gearcase covers were different for 'narrow' and 'wide' clutch saws too. More to this saw series than I realized....


Anybody here have the earlier SM's that cover the earlier saws in this series? The 3rd and 4th Ed's only cover the 995's, and the 5th doesn't even cover this saw family....

I see no indication in the IPL that the shoe width (55076-1A or 55076-1 both 5/8") or the clutch cover varied substantially from the first to the last direct drive model. The IPL notes are pretty extensive and they seem to keep track of all the updates. The only variation I see is the 9-23 cover was superceded with a different version on the 900D and later models. Problem is, these parts are so easily interchangeable one may never know exactly what the saw came with. My 995D is wearing C-91 shoes, and loving it.

Now the gear drives....those are a different animal entirely.

Chris B.

 

[Eccentric]

I see no indication in the IPL that the shoe width (55076-1A or 55076-1 both 5/8") or the clutch cover varied substantially from the first to the last direct drive model. The IPL notes are pretty extensive and they seem to keep track of all the updates. The only variation I see is the 9-23 cover was superceded with a different version on the 900D and later models. Problem is, these parts are so easily interchangeable one may never know exactly what the saw came with. My 995D is wearing C-91 shoes, and loving it.

Now the gear drives....those are a different animal entirely.

Chris B.

Note 20 on page 11.

Not trying to argue with you Chris. You have more experience working on this series (by far) than I do. Just pointing out what I saw in the IPL. It doesn't say which saws got which width clutches. Just states that the correct parts have to be matched up with the individual saw (paraphrasing). It did show that all but the 995's got the keyed clutches, while the 995's got the threaded on clutches.

 

[cbfarmall]

Note 20 on page 11.

Not trying to argue with you Chris. You have more experience working on this series (by far) than I do. Just pointing out what I saw in the IPL. It doesn't say which saws got which width clutches. Just states that the correct parts have to be matched up with the individual saw (paraphrasing). It did show that all but the 995's got the keyed clutches, while the 995's got the threaded on clutches.

If you're referring to 5/8" versus 3/4" width shoes that is for the gear drive clutches. It is unclear on the 55076-1(A) shoes and I know Homelite has made several of this part number with varying suffixes but it is clear from the IPL that there is only one style of the drum--the only variations being pitch, tooth-count and rim or spur. I have to believe the width is unchanged.

Clear as mud?

My experience consists of using what fits on these saws. And there seems to be infinite possibility.

Chris B.

 

[leecopland]

Hi Guys,

I purchased a 651 as a runner today. Only saw a photo which sadly is no longer up on Kijiji. It looked pretty good but will need some fettling to be a reliable runner. In the same deal I'm getting a Jonsered 49sp which I'm told is an excellent runner which has a chain brake. I couldn't find 651 on Acres site so it maybe a Canadian version although too early for a mandatory chain brake. Should be picking them up on Monday and I'll post pics. I'll share what I paid when they are safety home.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Lee

CAD rules

correction: Jonsered doesn't have a chainbake but the Homelite 47 does.


OK went to collect, I paid via Paypal to secure them, and found out that the Homelite was not a 651 but a 47. This saw has a 15" bar and .325 chain in reasonable shape although comp. is only 125psi. It seems to run OK not been in wood yet. This was apparently made at Point Clair Quebec but looks like a Solo. I can't find either an IPL or manual so far. I'd like to get confirmation that this saw and my classic 300 are Solo saws. The 300 is the same as the John Deere cs50 except for colour.

The other saw is a Jonsered 49sp 20" 3/8 B&C. No time to check comp. but runs well. AV buffers may be gone. Photos later. Paid $50.00 cdn for the pair.
Jonsered compression 150psi sweet!


Regards,

Lee

 

[nstueve]

8800 for sale...

couldn't resist posting this since I've seen it in person... if i had the cash i'd be on my way to mitch's right now... :frown:
Homelite 8800 chainsaw

 

[ChainFinn]

Today at lunchbreak, i started to assemble the Super 2 that my buddy gave me.

It was put in parts, but the engine was intact, it was not blown to bits------luckily.

Anyways, i got it in one piece, cleaned it a bit, and i swapped the carburator, since the original had a pooor rotten dry membrane, and i did not have new one, to replace the rubber, but i had this HDC carb lying in the drawer. It has 3 screws for adjusting, instead of 2 screw original model, plus the venturi is different. You see, teh original had "28" cast in the venturi, while the new one has"32".


Are these engines, commonly suffering from lack of spark ?


and most of all....


What in the world makes the crank case flood....the original owner said the engine started to flood, so much that the cylinder was leaking liquid gas, when th eplug was removed, and as long as you pulled the starting rope, it would spray gas all over, through the plug hole. And now it does it too / again, with new carb. I replaced all the oil and fuel lines, and it still floods massively,as if the carb would pour all the gas tank contents, straight in to the crank case ......!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


It would be nice small weirdo saw in to my collection but i sure would like it to run.


Any help, will be appreciated,indeed.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Today at lunchbreak, i started to assemble the Super 2 that my buddy gave me.

It was put in parts, but the engine was intact, it was not blown to bits------luckily.

Anyways, i got it in one piece, cleaned it a bit, and i swapped the carburator, since the original had a pooor rotten dry membrane, and i did not have new one, to replace the rubber, but i had this HDC carb lying in the drawer. It has 3 screws for adjusting, instead of 2 screw original model, plus the venturi is different. You see, teh original had "28" cast in the venturi, while the new one has"32".


Are these engines, commonly suffering from lack of spark ?


and most of all....


What in the world makes the crank case flood....the original owner said the engine started to flood, so much that the cylinder was leaking liquid gas, when th eplug was removed, and as long as you pulled the starting rope, it would spray gas all over, through the plug hole. And now it does it too / again, with new carb. I replaced all the oil and fuel lines, and it still floods massively,as if the carb would pour all the gas tank contents, straight in to the crank case ......!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


It would be nice small weirdo saw in to my collection but i sure would like it to run.


Any help, will be appreciated,indeed.

The little Homelites generally don't suffer from lack of spark. Some come with points ignition and some come with electronic ignition, both fairly reliable. As for the carb, that's not a normal problem with this saw either. Sounds like you should have gone through the carb before you put it on the saw, but of course if you don't have any spark it will eventually flood the engine with gas if you pull the rope enough.