New McCulloch Timber Bear

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CBGale2

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Hi guys, new to the forum and just picked up my first chainsaw. Used many before but never needed my own. New house has a wood burner, so of course I need a saw. Stopped at a barn sale and found a Timber Bear that was in really nice shape for $20, figured I couldn't go wrong for that price. Anyway, I am trying to dig up some info or a manual for it and I don't see a dang model/serial number anyplace on this thing. It looks just like the one except mine has the decals on it still.


chainsaw002.jpg
 
Other than being fairly heavy, they are a torquey saw and thus not the fastest cutting saws, but generally cut good and seem to reasonably reliable firewood saws. I have a PM605 and it runs and cuts good in my opinion. Also that was a good price and I definately would have picked it up. Keep the chain sharp and wear your proper PPE and enjoy the saw, if kept up well it should last you a good while.
 
This is probably a loaded question but as far as bar oil goes. Any better than others, different weights? And is 40:1 fuel recommended, I know I have a can of 50:1 mixed at home. Can I use that or mix up some new? :greenchainsaw:
 
This is probably a loaded question but as far as bar oil goes. Any better than others, different weights? And is 40:1 fuel recommended, I know I have a can of 50:1 mixed at home. Can I use that or mix up some new? :greenchainsaw:

ooh ooh here we go! :popcorn:

But to answer your questions, most around these parts (AS) like the Tractor Supply bar oil (TSC) it is cheap and works well (they say - I have not started on my jug yet so cannot advise from experience).

For the 2-stroke, use full synthetic somewhere between 40:1 and 50:1 and you should be fine, though not sure what this older saw calls for, most folks on here will say newer synthetic oils allow older saws made to run at higher ratios 32:1 to run at 40 or 50 to 1. I'd let some of the Mac experts offer up a little advise on that one before making a call.

For a manual, look in the STICKIES thread, and there is a beg for manuals thread... post up in there what you need. Someone will come alnog and PM you a link or .pdf lickity-split.


dw
 
Was just messing with it out in the garage and the recoil started to stick. I took it off and removed the bolt, nut and three washers that go through the middle of the spool and it still won't retract in. Any suggestions?
 
Send me a PM with your email and I'll get you the IPL and manual.

It's a cinder block with handles. LOL!!!

Now that we have that out of the way, it's a very good firewood saw.Tough as nails. Runs best with a 20" bar but will pull a 24" with no problem.

Run 50:1 and my vote also for the TSC bar oil. They have it on sale here right now for $7.00 a gallon.Keep your air filter clean and your chain sharp and enjoy!!
 
It's a good fire wood saw. Heavy, ugly, but torquey and dependable.
:) I run the cheap bar oil and I run all my saws 43:1 (3oz per gallon) 40:1 or 50:1 is fine also, I like using 3oz dixie cups for measuring.... quick and easy.
Dual spikes makes them look a little better.

IMG_7532.jpg


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She looks great Arrow!

My post that hasn't come up yet was about the recoil. It was working fine but now its sticking, won't retract. I removed the nut, bolt and washers but its still sticking. Almost like there is too much resistance between the aluminum spool and the plastic spindle. Gave it a shot of lube but that didn't help. Any suggestions??
 
She looks great Arrow!

My post that hasn't come up yet was about the recoil. It was working fine but now its sticking, won't retract. I removed the nut, bolt and washers but its still sticking. Almost like there is too much resistance between the aluminum spool and the plastic spindle. Gave it a shot of lube but that didn't help. Any suggestions??

I had issues with mine as well. I don't quite remember what I did, but I think I had to replace the bolt, and add some washers to get it to work right.
 
Anyone know what the spark plug gap should be? I've managed to get it to fire up but it will only run for a few seconds before dying out. The recoil is still causing me fits also. I can pull on it 50 times and all of a sudden it will stick and not retract. Come back the next day and its drawn back in and it works for awhile. Bout ready to go pick me up a new poulin. :msp_mad:
 
Anyone know what the spark plug gap should be? I've managed to get it to fire up but it will only run for a few seconds before dying out. The recoil is still causing me fits also. I can pull on it 50 times and all of a sudden it will stick and not retract. Come back the next day and its drawn back in and it works for awhile. Bout ready to go pick me up a new poulin. :msp_mad:

plug gap should be .025, the recoils on mine always worked well, make sure you lube the spring and check for the obvious, you may be happier with the mac once you get it right, i cut many a cord with my old timberbear:rock:
 
I put some lube on it but its not seeming to help. Just weird it will work and work and then stick out of the blue.

Thanks for the gap!
 
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I put some lube on it but its not seeming to help. Just weird it will work and work and then stick out of the blue.

may have the spring wound too tight, back off one turn on the rope to relieve some spring tension and try it again;)
 

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