As does the 550.
Sounds like it to me also.... cold saw.
Half of my saws are that way. They have to warm up a bit before you can hit the trigger.
The difference for me is that this saw sometimes won't keep running on its own at high idle at a cold start. It fires on choke, then starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull with the choke off, but sometimes dies after 1 or 2 seconds -- without touching the throttle. It sometimes then takes 2 - 4 pulls again to get it to fire at high idle, then it dies again. Then maybe on the third or fourth re-start it will stumble along on high idle until finally it smooths out and I can touch the throttle to release the high idle. Colder temperatures seem to make it worse. Using the air purge more or less doesn't seem to make a difference.
Again, I can put up with it. It's just the hardest starting 2 stroke I own. I probably wouldn't have started the thread it if it weren't for also having the bogging off-idle symptom. When you grab a fist-full of throttle, hearing your saw stumble or drop RPMs, even for a split second, doesn't give you confidence. Neither of these is a major issue, but since I have both of them I thought I'd ask other folks what their experience has been.
I appreciate all the input. It's really helpful to hear.
There's actually a L needle on the 550. It sounds like yours needs opened 1/4 turn. It's in a recess on the face of the carb, on the left side.
How is this any different from any cold saw that doesn't want to take throttle right at first? The 346 does the same thing.
it is amazing what a guy can learn when he actually has owned/ran/used the saws he blows about all the time. hmmm.......guess you need to do more than read specs, and look at pictures.:biggrin:OK, guess I learned something today - but are you sure it is correct to call that one an L screw/needle. :msp_confused:
OK, guess I learned something today - but are you sure it is correct to call that one an L screw/needle. :msp_confused:
it is amazing what a guy can learn when he actually has owned/ran/used the saws he blows about all the time. hmmm.......guess you need to do more than read specs, and look at pictures.:biggrin:
it is amazing what a guy can learn when he actually has owned/ran/used the saws he blows about all the time. hmmm.......guess you need to do more than read specs, and look at pictures.:biggrin:
I think I showed it in the thread I did on my 550.
Pardon my ignorance but I checkd this thread twice http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/206511-31.htm and didnt find.
I took the saw back to the dealer for him to investigate. He does have the diagnostic tool, but he didn't find any codes or errors for the saw.
He said he did a "master reset" and that it seemed to help the starting problem. The slight and occasional stumble off idle was unaffected. He said he tried a 562xp AT alongside my 550xp, and the 562 did the same thing off idle when hot. He had never noticed that before. He also said he had his "Autotune school" coming up in about a month and would let me know if he heard anything that would help. I like him, and I believe he genuinely wants happy customers.
I've now used the saw for a few weeks after the "master reset," and the saw behaves the same way it did before I took it in. If I follow the manual's instructions for starting on a cold morning, it's a truly frustrating experience because the saw won't stay running once it starts.
I can get it to run by repeating the entire starting process 3 times (primer bulb only gets worked before the whole series, not each time): choke on--choke off--dies; choke on--choke off--dies; choke on -- choke off -- finally keeps running.
So I have a workaround that requires a little extra fiddling and extra pulling (maybe 12 - 15 pulls total) when it's cold. Once I'm working with it and keep it hot, the Formula car handling and power in such a small package makes me smile despite its starting and slight stumbling behaviors.
I like the saw so much that I might consider replacing the carb as an experiment. Does anyone know what a new AT carb costs? If you replace the carb, do you also have to replace the ignition module as well, and if so, how much would that cost?
Try using the purge bulb more. I use the bulb on mine (562xp) every time I start it. 3-4 pulls cold, one pull warm. Back to the dealer if this doesn't help...
As does the 550.
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