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parrisw

parrisw

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I'm not trying to convey I'm as good as brad or randy. Simply make my work saws work better that's all I do. The secrets was a joke. I don't have any and iv got most my knowledge from brads posts

There are many people on here that know what their doing. The whole secretive thing is kinda a big joke to me, and I didn't realize you were joking about it.
 
Mastermind

Mastermind

Work Saw Specialist
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
36,449
Location
Tennessee
You better go back in it with Randy's "new" recipe:) I'm going back in my 064/066 one of these days. The popup piston in it will be replaced and the squish band cut. Everything else will probably be left as is.

I can't take any credit for coming up with anything new. Wiggs is the guy that started me thinking about less exhaust timing. I was on the wrong track with thinking less intake....therefore more base compression was the ticket. It seems that the more I learn the less I truly understand about these two strokes.
 
mtrees

mtrees

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
524
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Central Pa
I can't take any credit for coming up with anything new. Wiggs is the guy that started me thinking about less exhaust timing. I was on the wrong track with thinking less intake....therefore more base compression was the ticket. It seems that the more I learn the less I truly understand about these two strokes.

My monkey with a gun 660 is BAD that's all I can say!! Thanks Randy!!
 
MTNBOY

MTNBOY

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Messages
100
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Mountains of the potato state USA
I can't take any credit for coming up with anything new. Wiggs is the guy that started me thinking about less exhaust timing. I was on the wrong track with thinking less intake....therefore more base compression was the ticket. It seems that the more I learn the less I truly understand about these two strokes.

So ur lowering the port to leave it in the power stroke longer?
 
Mastermind

Mastermind

Work Saw Specialist
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Nov 21, 2009
Messages
36,449
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Tennessee
So ur lowering the port to leave it in the power stroke longer?

A quick and dirty explanation.....Higher exhaust builds more rpm at the expense of torque. Torque is what drags the chain through the wood so that's what I'm after when I build an engine. If the engine has enough torque, a larger sprocket can be used to increase chain speed. A win win situation IMHO.
 
MTNBOY

MTNBOY

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A quick and dirty explanation.....Higher exhaust builds more rpm at the expense of torque. Torque is what drags the chain through the wood so that's what I'm after when I build an engine. If the engine has enough torque, a larger sprocket can be used to increase chain speed. A win win situation IMHO.
Correct but by getting more fuel in the cylinder you also get a cleaner charge on the up stroke. That's why I went with making the transfers plenty large and smooth to flow the most mix in and push exhaust out. I know everybody says not to smooth them for atomization but you have to think that the mix going thru a crank spinning 12k plus isn't gonna have time for fuel to settle. So I go with flow volume. Also if your carb should attomize fine if you have it cleaned out and a good impulse line. Am I way off. I know in the race cars we always had all ports mirror finish and still do to this day.I'm just brainstorming trying to figure out how I wanna port this 460 I got sitting waiting for some work
 
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Mastermind

Mastermind

Work Saw Specialist
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
36,449
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Tennessee
Correct but by getting more fuel in the cylinder you also get a cleaner charge on the up stroke. That's why I went with making the transfers plenty large and smooth to flow the most mix in and push exhaust out. I know everybody says not to smooth them for atomization but you have to think that the mix going thru a crank spinning 12k plus isn't gonna have time for fuel to settle. So I go with flow volume. Also if your carb should attomize fine if you have it cleaned out and a good impulse line. Am I way off. I know it race cars we always and them mirrored finish on all ports.

You won't really run into this on the 066/660 but too much transfer area can kill torque and make the saw only fit for cutting small wood. If the transfers are too large through the tunnels velocity suffers.

I slick everything up fairly well from carb bore to exhaust outlet.....but I don't polish the intake or transfers. I generally use a diamond burr as that finish is a good compromise and I can level and blend without getting the finish too smooth.

On the 660 get the exhaust as low as possible and the transfers at 120 - 118 atdc. The intake will end up at 84 - 85 atdc if you do machine work. Advance the timing .025 at the key and smooth the carb up by thinning the throttle blade screws and thinning the shafts.
 
komatsuvarna

komatsuvarna

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Joined
Feb 20, 2010
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4,462
Location
East TN
I've played with ignition timing on a few saws in the past, but lately I've been leaving the spark timing stock. I'm forced to run 10% ethanol fuel, and with a saw already pumping close to 200 psi, It just makes me feel a little better with the timing not advanced. Depending on the saw, some gain a little, some gain none, some even lose......with no room for a little error with max ignition timing. My opinion any ways :D
 
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