Aftermarket Cylinder... good and bad... the Truth!

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Millineum will not do the average chainsaw cylinder. They don't do blind cylinders, which accounts for every chainsaw on the market today.[/QUOTE]

OK, sorry, should have pointed out that I was just passing on info from other forums--CR5's being my personal affliction. perhaps there's another that does. since you mention it, I imagine it has to do with the tooling/process, but if a barrel were rare and precious enough, I'd already be spending for the nikasil, it might be worth the machine work for a billet head so they could plasma coat it properly.

sorry for the speckled speculation, just trying to pass on some MC 2T info....my bad, mike
 
.... This site seems to have an influence on the industry,if we can work with these aftermarket companies, maybe our feedback good or bad can help develop a better product, .....

Maybe some, but I suspect their main market is users of cut-off saws, that just want them going again - cheaply? :msp_wink:

It shows regarding what is and what isn't availiable, but of course there are exceptions.
 
I have an OEM cylinder/piston kit for an 029 that will have to come out again because it ingests the sealant from the intake side. This has happened twice. The sealant has sat over night both times, second time over the weekend. Off the eBay, kit was never installed before. Have rebuilt 20 of this style, never had such a thing happen before.

OEM isn't saving me squat.

You need to inspect the mating flange of the cylinder and the pan with a straightedge. Sounds like one (or both) of them could be warped. Also, you probably already do this but make sure you clean the surfaces VERY well with carb cleaner before putting the sealant on. I use a layer on either half, and then put them together. If the Dirko does not seem to be sticking to the surfaces when I spread it, I wipe it off and try again. That is one of the pitfalls of rebuiding with the pan in the case. I have fallen into that trap a time or two. It is much easier to get the pan clean if it is off. Also, what kind of sealant are you using?
 
You need to inspect the mating flange of the cylinder and the pan with a straightedge. Sounds like one (or both) of them could be warped. Also, you probably already do this but make sure you clean the surfaces VERY well with carb cleaner before putting the sealant on. I use a layer on either half, and then put them together. If the Dirko does not seem to be sticking to the surfaces when I spread it, I wipe it off and try again. That is one of the pitfalls of rebuiding with the pan in the case. I have fallen into that trap a time or two. It is much easier to get the pan clean if it is off. Also, what kind of sealant are you using?

Dirko in red. I have always taken the clam out to clean it. May get a tube of the Permatex stuff. Thanks.
 
Don't want to stir things up here, but Spacemule did have a question that didn't get answered. "Will a 395xp kit go on a 394xp?" Curious myself, I've never worked on either.

They will- but you need the 395 rubber intake boot + clamp, intake sleeve, dust shield, throttle cable, manifold, intake studs, and filter base.

:clap:

Millineum will not do the average chainsaw cylinder. They don't do blind cylinders, which accounts for every chainsaw on the market today.

US Chrome does blind jugs 250.00.....

Dirko in red. I have always taken the clam out to clean it. May get a tube of the Permatex stuff. Thanks.

Loctite 518 is all we use these days. Works great but as always cleanliness is a must. It will fill a .030 void and still harden.
 
I have found one company that sells MS361 AM BB top end kits. I have not ordered one yet hoping just such a thing as this would happen here.

When a supplier who does not work on saws for a living ask for the bad parts back you better PAY ATTENTION folks.

The latter is an excellent point and something I hadn't considered while thinking about whether or not to keep the 361 kit I ended up with. As mentioned, the vendor had no problem with a return and a refund, but also indicated the kit I bought was their last one and he didn't know if they were even going to re-stock them in the future due to the inconsistent quality. Doesn't sound to me like they want to stir the pot with their supplier, so maybe I'm better off just keeping the kit and getting it re-worked anyway -- unless someone knows where I can get a cleaner one somewhere?
 
The latter is an excellent point and something I hadn't considered while thinking about whether or not to keep the 361 kit I ended up with. As mentioned, the vendor had no problem with a return and a refund, but also indicated the kit I bought was their last one and he didn't know if they were even going to re-stock them in the future due to the inconsistent quality. Doesn't sound to me like they want to stir the pot with their supplier, so maybe I'm better off just keeping the kit and getting it re-worked anyway -- unless someone knows where I can get a cleaner one somewhere?

As of 2 minutes ago I counted 20 ms361 kits on auction and atleast 6 were BB
 
As of 2 minutes ago I counted 20 ms361 kits on auction and atleast 6 were BB

'Preciate the tip, but I'm not a big eBay guy and do my best to support site sponsors whenever possible. And since the odds of me getting one in any better condition are iffy, I think I'll just keep the one I have and deal with it.

But thanks again.

:cheers:
 
I believe it has more to do with the relatively short time on the markets (low total number of saws) - as there are no shortage of quad port Husky kits. :msp_wink:

Is anyone offering a quad port kit to replace a dual port kit?

Can you give us a run time ie: how many years in production and total number of saws produced as a MS361 model? I'd like to know what is the total estimated number you come up with. If the saw was discontinued for other than EPA emissions reasons I'd like to know why? I think I may already have found the answer to that, just maybe.

The re-plating process is more than I figured but not out of the realm of useful rare parts being salvaged to work better than as built when new from the factory.

I got the links and Thanks Mike. Nice part was one of the best is close by me :)

Looks like the AM industry is finally going to move forward on there jugs.
 
Howdy,
Looks like a busy weekend for AM Cylinder PR. The only thing I would like to see different is instead of having player A,B, and C. That way everybody can know who makes what for who. We're all big boys here, and it would level the playing field as to who the players actually are. I don't think the mods would say anything. Heck neither Mahle, nor any OEM's that runs there product are sponsors here, and they get plugged all the time. On the same note, if somebody is pushing total junk, they should be talked about without fear of moderator intervention.
Regards
Gregg
 
Howdy,
Looks like a busy weekend for AM Cylinder PR. The only thing I would like to see different is instead of having player A,B, and C. That way everybody can know who makes what for who. We're all big boys here, and it would level the playing field as to who the players actually are. I don't think the mods would say anything. Heck neither Mahle, nor any OEM's that runs there product are sponsors here, and they get plugged all the time. On the same note, if somebody is pushing total junk, they should be talked about without fear of moderator intervention.
Regards
Gregg

:clap::rock::clap:
 
I have an OEM cylinder/piston kit for an 029 that will have to come out again because it ingests the sealant from the intake side. This has happened twice. The sealant has sat over night both times, second time over the weekend. Off the eBay, kit was never installed before. Have rebuilt 20 of this style, never had such a thing happen before.

OEM isn't saving me squat.

Aside from what the others have stated, are you using too much sealant? I've noticed little boogers in the mufflers on a few occasions, but nothing that suggested any type of "failure", just used too much sealant and it squished through and must have been picked up while saw was running. Clean the mating surfaces well and always check with a straight edge. I use a metal tri-square and haven't noticed any problems yet with any OEM cylinders. Not saying the factory doesn't make mistakes, just that I haven't run across any bad cylinders yet.

BTW, I'm not knocking folks who use AM cylinders, I have in a pinch and out of curiosity, I'm just sharing my experiences. Plenty of OEM cylinders and piston kits available on the Ebay for $159, or less, to even bother with a quality AM for the same price. That's a no brainer to me. If none available, and no good used OEM cylinders advertised, and I was pushed for time, I'd definitely go for the complete meteor set up.
 
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It would be awesome if an aftermarket supplier stepped up and made a quad-transfer cylinder for the 046/460.

i used to run an aftermarket cylinder on my 250r atv that was a very strong engine,nothing like the factory one ,if someone could figure figure the quad port configuration ,they would probobly do well selling them for saws
 
i bet your 250r saw has an aftermarket cylinder on it :msp_wink:

Big Bore Aftermaket......Awesome.....ness!......You Bet!

AM.................................OEM
esramc.jpg
 
Howdy,
Looks like a busy weekend for AM Cylinder PR. The only thing I would like to see different is instead of having player A,B, and C. That way everybody can know who makes what for who. We're all big boys here, and it would level the playing field as to who the players actually are. I don't think the mods would say anything. Heck neither Mahle, nor any OEM's that runs there product are sponsors here, and they get plugged all the time. On the same note, if somebody is pushing total junk, they should be talked about without fear of moderator intervention.
Regards
Gregg

Good idea. As long as there's no conflict of interest with sponsors I don't see any problem with this.
 
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