511AX Vise

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On my 511A I removed the upper motor tilt scale, slightly enlarged the holes, and reinstalled it with double stick carpet tape and the screws so that it at least 'agreed' with the motor tilt scale on the front of the casting at 60 degrees. My vise rotation scale was accurate.

On this Tecomec grinder, the vise rotation scale was installed crooked and hitting the vise. So I removed it, filed the top smooth, enlarged one of the holes, and reinstalled it. Still have to check it for accuracy. I like to put a new chain in the vise and 'match' the angles R & L to do this.

Philbert
Rather amazing how brand new equipment like this has to be tweaked so much in order to use it. What my logging buddy is now doing to hold a 25-degree angle on both sides is to sharpen the left cutters at a scale reading of 28 degrees and the right cutters at 22 degrees. It drives him nuts, but he gets the job done.

What ever happened to quality control? :bang:
 
Rather amazing how brand new equipment like this has to be tweaked so much in order to use it. What my logging buddy is now doing to hold a 25-degree angle on both sides is to sharpen the left cutters at a scale reading of 28 degrees and the right cutters at 22 degrees. It drives him nuts, but he gets the job done.

What ever happened to quality control? :bang:

Somebody threw insanity down an inner hole.

[video=youtube;7rWuc5kar3Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rWuc5kar3Y[/video]
 
Would replacing one of these pieces save the vise?

Philbert

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Pulled the worse of the two apart. There is a polymer bushing that isn't illustrated. This part is worn as well as the two shown. Design is simple but if parts can not be sourced.....
 
Even the part number shown does not come up on any list as a Tecomec part or 200176 as a Oregon part.

It is a shame that Oregon does not support their product any better than what they do or the several places that try to sell the Jolly Star, and some of these marketers trying to get 100% profit, have absolutely no parts support?

It should be easy enough to either make you own bushings from Delrin. I bet they would last many times longer?

It's highly possible that the originals are just injection molded?
 
Pulled the worse of the two apart. There is a polymer bushing that isn't illustrated. This part is worn as well as the two shown. Design is simple but if parts can not be sourced.....

You have a lathe. Make them.
 
Pulled the worse of the two apart. There is a polymer bushing that isn't illustrated. This part is worn as well as the two shown. Design is simple but if parts can not be sourced.....

It is a shame that Oregon does not support their product any better than what they do or the several places that try to sell the Jolly Star, and some of these marketers trying to get 100% profit, have absolutely no parts support?

Mark,

Thanks for following up on this.

Did you try to get this part, or just replaced the vises? If they know that it is a problem, maybe they can make that part available. You can describe the part and issue better than I can, but again, I have always found Oregon's tech support helpful.

I don't know if your 511AX came with a parts list, but offer to send them the Tecomec one, and your videos (!) if it helps explain.

If we can figure out the part, I think that it would help a bunch of guys here on A.S.

Philbert
 
These are the parts I got from Oregon: (2) plastic bushings with a spiral split (a little hard to see in the photo), and a dished, metal washer. The part number (Oregon 522691, Tecomec K00200126) is slightly different from what is listed in the IPL above (might just be a typo ?).

I am sending them to Mitch (sorry for calling you 'Mark') who has agreed to try them in one of his 'sloppy' vises. He can tell us if they fix the problem, and how easy or hard they are to install.

Philbert
image.jpg
 
Pulled the worse of the two apart. There is a polymer bushing that isn't illustrated. This part is worn as well as the two shown. Design is simple but if parts can not be sourced.....

Can't wait to see what mitch's results are. I just bought a 511a after finding one cheap, and not wanting to buy the more expensive AX, only to have it fall apart on me.

One has to wonder if the bushings couldn't be made out of metal once in order to save one's-self from doing the same fix over and over during the life of the grinder.

Also waiting for someone to come up with a way to put the "AX" table on the "A"... if possible... i know they aren't direct swaps anyhow.
 
Bushings sent.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Although mine were worn, this was not the main source of movement. There are two raised "slides" on the bottom of the vise. They seem to wear faster that the polymer shim placed under the vise assembly. The vise on the left is severely worn while the right is just a hair sloppy.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr

Either a new base portion needs to be sourced or add sufficient shim stock to make the difference. Happen to have two shims here so I doubled them up. Tight as the day I got it.... Labeled the shim as 1 and the bushings 2. Believe there was a tecomek part number listed earlier.


Untitled by mweba1, on Flickr
 
Huge Sharpening Angle Error

On my 511A I removed the upper motor tilt scale, slightly enlarged the holes, and reinstalled it with double stick carpet tape and the screws so that it at least 'agreed' with the motor tilt scale on the front of the casting at 60 degrees. My vise rotation scale was accurate.

On this Tecomec grinder, the vise rotation scale was installed crooked and hitting the vise. So I removed it, filed the top smooth, enlarged one of the holes, and reinstalled it. Still have to check it for accuracy. I like to put a new chain in the vise and 'match' the angles R & L to do this.

Philbert
I'll try to make a correction with my Buddy's Oregon 511ax, but being off by a whopping 3 degrees on the sharpening angle may make this impossible to correct. On a 24" log, all of his Oregon 511ax sharpened chains are cutting off on a vertical drop by at least 5", thanks to this ridiculous mistake.

I've also noticed that the coil spring that returns the wheel to the vertical position is weak. His "cadillac" model has the hydraulic assist for locking the chain. That weights down the motor head and the spring can't pull the head back up to vertical and leaves it at least 2" low.
 
Bushings sent.
Although mine were worn, this was not the main source of movement. There are two raised "slides" on the bottom of the vise. They seem to wear faster that the polymer shim placed under the vise assembly. The vise on the left is severely worn while the right is just a hair sloppy.

Either a new base portion needs to be sourced or add sufficient shim stock to make the difference. Happen to have two shims here so I doubled them up. Tight as the day I got it.... Labeled the shim as 1 and the bushings 2. Believe there was a tecomek part number listed earlier.

Thanks for following through on this Mitch!

So, did I read it correctly, that installing the bushings I sent, and replacing or doubling up the rectangular shim (#1 on your diagram) took care of the slop? If so, that would be a whole lot better, and less expensive, than buying a new vise!

How easy or difficult was it to install the bushings?

Thanks.

Philbert
 
Thanks for following through on this Mitch!

So, did I read it correctly, that installing the bushings I sent, and replacing or doubling up the rectangular shim (#1 on your diagram) took care of the slop? If so, that would be a whole lot better, and less expensive, than buying a new vise!

How easy or difficult was it to install the bushings?

Thanks.

Philbert

Very simple. Four bolts in less than five minutes. This did take care of all of the slop.
 
OK, these are the Oregon part numbers that folks will need to order the parts from any local dealer or catalog supplier.
I am going to get a set for my grinder, just to have on hand, in case I ever reach the level of wear that mweba did.

Thanks again Mitch for doing the hands-on work for the rest of us.

Shim: Oregon 541100 – MSRP $2.75 (Tecomec TMK00200177 )
Bushings: Oregon 522691 – MSRP $11.04 (Tecomec TMK00200126? TMK00200176?)

Philbert
 
OK, these are the Oregon part numbers that folks will need to order the parts from any local dealer or catalog supplier.
I am going to get a set for my grinder, just to have on hand, in case I ever reach the level of wear that mweba did.

Thanks again Mitch for doing the hands-on work for the rest of us.

Shim: Oregon 541100 – MSRP $2.75 (Tecomec TMK00200177 )
Bushings: Oregon 522691 – MSRP $11.04 (Tecomec TMK00200126? TMK00200176?)

Philbert

Thanks Philbert.
 
I'll try to make a correction with my Buddy's Oregon 511ax, but being off by a whopping 3 degrees on the sharpening angle may make this impossible to correct. On a 24" log, all of his Oregon 511ax sharpened chains are cutting off on a vertical drop by at least 5", thanks to this ridiculous mistake.

I've also noticed that the coil spring that returns the wheel to the vertical position is weak. His "cadillac" model has the hydraulic assist for locking the chain. That weights down the motor head and the spring can't pull the head back up to vertical and leaves it at least 2" low.

the AX model has an adjustment to center the bed. on the right front side, screw to loosen is underneath.
 
the AX model has an adjustment to center the bed. on the right front side, screw to loosen is underneath.
Found it and fixed the problem. It did take some doing, however. Glad I have a micrometer and a magnifying glass. We also discovered an error in the chain as well. The depth gauges were not the same height on each side, so the right cutters were plowing out faster than the left. The entire 100' reel was off. :(
 
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