MODED Poulan Wildthing 2375

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great info on the Poulan stuff. One question, the 2550 is listed in the 2250 and 2500 sections. Is this a typo or a model year change?
Don't get me wrong, not trying to poke at your info. Just trying to understand
Yup, that's a typo, thanks for finding it! Now, I guess I will change history and correct the original post just so someone who runs across it gets the right info.

Did they need so many model numbers of the same couple of saws? Heck, even the lower displacement versions often had the same 42cc engine in them.
 
Ask and ye shall receive!!!

AllenVMcCloskeyII


AllenVMcCloskeyII

That's exactly where my clutch cover broke at, I did the same fix on mine.
 
With the box of Wild Thing parts diggers_dad just sent me I think it's time to see what I can get out of one of these. I've been putting together a degree wheel so I can do this right. Just the thing for February cabin fever - well, the barn is not heated.........
 
With the box of Wild Thing parts diggers_dad just sent me I think it's time to see what I can get out of one of these. I've been putting together a degree wheel so I can do this right. Just the thing for February cabin fever - well, the barn is not heated.........

Well a while back I got a Brad Snelling ported 4018 strato. This is one screaming saw. Very loud as well with the muff mod. Cuts well beyond its size.
Bob
 
engine swap

Hi Folks,

Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.

2nd question: I was taking apart a 3314 to replace the P&C when I inadvertently undid the chain brake, which then blew apart sending bits in several directions. Any info available on how this item goes back together? I know these are inferior big box store saws but still useful tools. Looking forward to all and any help offered. One day I'll get a real Poulan as I seem to have picked up CAD.



Many thanks,

Lee

PS re-posted from Poulan thread
 
Hi Folks,

Great thread, learning lots. Can I swap in a pro 220 motor into my 2550t Poulan? I need a new cylinder and piston due to a snap ring coming off after a rebuild.

2nd question: I was taking apart a 3314 to replace the P&C when I inadvertently undid the chain brake, which then blew apart sending bits in several directions. Any info available on how this item goes back together? I know these are inferior big box store saws but still useful tools. Looking forward to all and any help offered. One day I'll get a real Poulan as I seem to have picked up CAD.



Many thanks,

Lee

PS re-posted from Poulan thread
That engine should drop right in - one of the nice things about these. This one is a PP262 with an old engine from a 42cc Craftsman and some bits from a Wild Thing:

282380d1362269997-img_0683-800-jpg
 
I'm going to re-post this here because people invariably confuse the different Poulan models:

<blockquote>This is what I've learned about the older plastic Poulan saws – by older I mean pre-strato engines. There are similar Craftsman versions of many of these (not the Husqvarna), which sometimes have slightly different mix of features.

Poulan Wild Thing

Models include the 1950, 2050, 2055, 2150, 2175, 2375, PP210, PP262 in displacements from 33cc to 42cc. There is no anti-vibe and they can be identified by the primer bulb and the distinctive vertical duct bulge that runs from the top of the recoil cover into the top cover. They're not that light and fairly wide, but not too bad either.

The engine is a basic clamshell type with a slug piston and open single transfers. The connecting rod is a flat cross section (stamped?), but is fairly thick and I've not heard of this being a weakness. Flywheels have deep fins and they appear to move a lot of air.

Some have chain brakes, some don't. Clutches are outboard type with simple spur drive sprockets. All use 3/8 LoPro chain. Most use Walbro WT carbs and foam air filter that works OK if it's oiled. The plastic clutch cover/chain brake tend to warp a bit over time, especially with heat from the clutch area, as they are supported only at the bar studs. Bar studs are toggle head bolts and go though the plastic case (as opposed to being threaded into the plastic like an MS250).

Poulan 2250

Models include the 2250, 2550, 2555, PP220, PP230, PP260, in displacements from 36cc to 42cc. These are the same basic design as the Wild Thing family, but have A/V. The A/V uses a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft and allows a fair amount of movement, but it is smooth. There are considerable differences in the choke and throttle linkages, on/off switch, the carb, the top cover and the air filter mount. The top cover on these has two internal ridges that help keep the air filter seated, which the Wild Thing ones do not have. The choke is located on a terrible position and is really hard to access with gloves.

Chain brakes were optional. All use 3/8 LoPro chain.

Poulan 2500

Models include the 2500, 2600, 2700, 2750, 2775, 3050, PP255, PP295, PP4620, PP310, PP315, as well as the Jonsered 2036 and 2040. Displacements run from 36cc to 49cc. There is no primer bulb, and the Jonsered versions have a different shaped recoil and top cover just for decoration. The engines in this family are different from those in the Wild Thing family saws. For one, the crank is about 1/2” narrower, and the flywheel has shallower fins, allowing the whole saw to be lighter and much narrower as well. They are about 10lbs.

The connecting rod has an I-beam cross section. They use a chromed bore. The exhaust port shape is very similar to the Wild Thing, but the intake is a bit different. These saws respond very well to opening up the muffler and make a surprising amount of power for their displacement. They use Walbro WT carbs and a flocked air filter.

There is an external handle frame with a spring-type suspension for isolation, which tends to be rather soft.

Some of these are labeled “Turbo” and some are “Super Clean” - the Turbo versions use the small scoop by the flywheel fan to keep debris out of the airbox, while the Super Clean ones just have a pickup in the air stream between the cylinder and the carb. Only the Super Clean type parts are available any more, but they mostly interchange – there are some differences between early and later saws regarding the intake boot and impulse line.

Chain brakes are on most later saws. Most of these use 0.325” chain.

I have found three design weaknesses on these saws. First, the muffler heat shield on earlier Type I saws fatigue fails in the area around the muffler outlet. If you have a chain brake it can melt when the deflector falls off, and heat damage around the muffler is common. Second, the engine mount screws often back out. There is no locking hardware and they sit in a floating shoulder bushing that can spin so it would not work well anyway. Locktite will not work well with the thread type on the original screws. Many saws have been damaged by lost or broken screws. Last, the A/V mounts are easily damaged if the saw gets pinched and a gorilla tries to yank it out.

Husqvarna 36

Models include the 36, 136, 141, 142 in displacements from 36cc to 40cc. These use the same engine family as the Poulan 2500 series, but have a different “saddle” type case that fits over the handle/tank and has rubber A/V mounts. The A/V system allows less movement than the spring types used on the Poulans. The size and weight is about the same as the Poulan 2500 family. The air filter looks similar to the 2500 but is slightly different, and all use the Turbo filter scoop. Some of these are 0.325” and some are 3/8 LoPro chain, and the 142s came with 0.043” Microlite. Clutches, drive sprockets and bars interchange on all these saws.

The 142e saws come with catalyst mufflers that are very restrictive. With a little bit of work the muffler and heat shield can be replaced with the parts from the 141, which really helps power.</blockquote>
thanks for the info, love these little saws, i think im gonna try some port work on one :) my little 260 is really running strong with just the tune and muffler mod :)
 
thats so funny

I too have one of the craftsman versions it's been running fairly hard for over ten years and always ran good. Just last night I ported polished and modified the muffler I think it helped but noise doesn't tell me if it really has any more power. After running my 52 and 70e's it just feels small anyway.
 
I too have one of the craftsman versions it's been running fairly hard for over ten years and always ran good. Just last night I ported polished and modified the muffler I think it helped but noise doesn't tell me if it really has any more power. After running my 52 and 70e's it just feels small anyway.
Welcome to the madness! Give it a little bit of spark advance too, it makes a difference in how they pull.

I have another thread going about a 42cc I built, but I'll cross post here about the differences I found on the later non-strato 42cc cylinders. The have larger combustion chambers, lower exhaust ports and lower volume transfer runners. I think the intake is higher too but I'm not sure about that. I do not know the cut over date yet, but I'm guessing it was when the switched to the newer style mufflers. Maybe 2003 or 2004. Anyway, if you're going to play with a non-strato version it would be better to start with the older style engine. I just did one with the later style and it certainly runs well, but I think the older engines have more potential.
 
Welcome to the madness! Give it a little bit of spark advance too, it makes a difference in how they pull.

I have another thread going about a 42cc I built, but I'll cross post here about the differences I found on the later non-strato 42cc cylinders. The have larger combustion chambers, lower exhaust ports and lower volume transfer runners. I think the intake is higher too but I'm not sure about that. I do not know the cut over date yet, but I'm guessing it was when the switched to the newer style mufflers. Maybe 2003 or 2004. Anyway, if you're going to play with a non-strato version it would be better to start with the older style engine. I just did one with the later style and it certainly runs well, but I think the older engines have more potential.

Would a brand new PP3314 Wood Shark be a strato? I'm debating buying one brand new.
 
Would a brand new PP3314 Wood Shark be a strato? I'm debating buying one brand new.
I'm pretty sure they all are, but I've never looked closely at one. I found an IPL for a Poulan 3314 and it showed a two butterfly carb, so that is strato.
 
not to horn in but what exactly is a strato ?
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/65949.htm

Basically a system to address the fundamental problem with 2-strokes, where a portion of each incoming fuel/air charge gets blown out the exhaust port unburned. Strato fills the transfer runners with filtered air (no fuel) so what gets blown out the exhaust is mostly just air with no fuel.
 
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