Nik's Poulan Thread

[leecopland]

torgue settings for poulan

Hi Guys,

I'm just putting my 2550t back together and was wondering about torque settings for the main clam shell engine bolts and the clutch. I do have the poulan clutch tool. Many thanks in advance. Enjoy this site hugely.

Lee

 

[brokenbudget]

tighten them until they reloosen!
i don't think there is any 'factory' torque numbers, but it may just be i haven't seen them. just tighten them down normaly. they can take alot.


and i think i'm at the box now that has the titan seals.:msp_thumbup:

 

[leecopland]

tighten them until they reloosen!
i don't think there is any 'factory' torque numbers, but it may just be i haven't seen them. just tighten them down normaly. they can take alot.


and i think i'm at the box now that has the titan seals.:msp_thumbup:

Thanks Steve,

I'm looking forward to running this as I replaced the engine with one from a pp220. Trouble is I'm buying new projects faster than I'm finishing them!!

Regards,

Lee

 

[brokenbudget]

Thanks Steve,

I'm looking forward to running this as I replaced the engine with one from a pp220. Trouble is I'm buying new projects faster than I'm finishing them!!

Regards,

Lee

i'm having the same issue:msp_biggrin:

 

[Eccentric]

Yeah join the club....

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Finally got my full set after picking up a 445.


Poulan Pro's for the royal flush. 415 425 445 475 505 65cc 65cc 70.7cc 77cc 82.5cc

 

[OhioGregg]

Gregg, did you use the Mopar sublime green? I've always wondered how long the paint and hardener will last if you wait in between coats. We're you able to make use of the
Excess paint or was it trashed. Curious about the shelf life of the mixed paint if u wait in between coats. Btw, looks good.

Bob

Yes I did Bob. It is 1970 Mopar Sublime, J5. I think it is a tad to green, should be a little yellower. If thats a word. It does look good though, I think if ya saw it by itself, and not next to a original, might not be so noticeable.

I bought a quart and some hardner. What I had left over, I just poured into an old pickle jar. :msp_sad: Probably won't last long. If I was SMART, I should have pulled some parts etc. from some other saws, so as not to let it go to waste. My other 5200 has a gray handle on it. But, the whole saw needs paint. Will just do it some other time.

I think when its done it will look fine. At least for the girls I hang out with. Maybe not for the Poulan guys though...:msp_scared:


Gregg,

 

[Kostas]

Yes I did Bob. It is 1970 Mopar Sublime, J5. I think it is a tad to green, should be a little yellower. If thats a word. It does look good though, I think if ya saw it by itself, and not next to a original, might not be so noticeable.

I bought a quart and some hardner. What I had left over, I just poured into an old pickle jar. :msp_sad: Probably won't last long. If I was SMART, I should have pulled some parts etc. from some other saws, so as not to let it go to waste. My other 5200 has a gray handle on it. But, the whole saw needs paint. Will just do it some other time.

I think when its done it will look fine. At least for the girls I hang out with. Maybe not for the Poulan guys though...:msp_scared:


Gregg,

Well Gregg i think that the color is perfect.You did a really good job.Yesterday i received the decals from Joe Salva(perfect job and awsome guy) for the 4200 and for the 306A.I have planned to paint the 4200 this weekend.I tried to sand it a little today but it is really rough.The color on the top cover has many bubbles,seems like it affected from the heat of the cylinder.I think that someone else attempted to paint it before,no way to came from the factory this way.Anyway,the color i got from my locar store is without hardner.The guy told me that it is difficult to give me hardner because of the various brands of color it contains.It wasn't a ready color,he took a basic green,then added a little yelow,then a little red,black(oh too dark,let's add some yellow again) and voila,ready.I painted the 306A,it seems to be very strong,not affected by the gas but requires many days to become completely hard,over 15.I remember that the 306A,even after 4 days was sticking a lot.10 days after and it was soft by the finger nail.I will try it the weekend and i will post some pictures.

 

[knothole]

Got a running Poulan 47 here, and dang if it dont run rather well. Cleaned up nice as well. Still waiting on a couple little things for it, the oiler and stop buttons and a oil cap. Too bad the clutch side 47 emblem is missing.

The bar came in that batch of bars I got a short time back and I think it works out well on it. Ended up finding a 8 tooth 3/8s sprocket that I had here that fit it to be able to use a 3/8 .058 gauge chain on it instead of hunting all over for a .404 .058 chain.

What a beaut!!

 

[redunshee]

Yes I did Bob. It is 1970 Mopar Sublime, J5. I think it is a tad to green, should be a little yellower. If thats a word. It does look good though, I think if ya saw it by itself, and not next to a original, might not be so noticeable.

I bought a quart and some hardner. What I had left over, I just poured into an old pickle jar. :msp_sad: Probably won't last long. If I was SMART, I should have pulled some parts etc. from some other saws, so as not to let it go to waste. My other 5200 has a gray handle on it. But, the whole saw needs paint. Will just do it some other time.

I think when its done it will look fine. At least for the girls I hang out with. Maybe not for the Poulan guys though...:msp_scared:


Gregg,

Hear ya. I'd like to be able to let each coat dry for a day and then wet sand but the unused paint won't last that long and I'd hate to have to clean the sprayer each time. I bet 2 oz. oz paint and the approp. hardener would be enough for 1 saw.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Finally got my full set after picking up a 445.


Poulan Pro's for the royal flush. 415 425 445 475 505 65cc 65cc 70.7cc 77cc 82.5cc

NIce hand. Now you need the Pioneer/Partner hand. PP405, PP455,PP525 and PP655BP

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

NIce hand. Now you need the Pioneer/Partner hand. PP405, PP455,PP525 and PP655BP

Sorry I fold. Not my cup of tea.

Plus you need 5 cards :msp_thumbup: so add a 655 to the 655BP :msp_tongue:

 

[OhioGregg]

Hear ya. I'd like to be able to let each coat dry for a day and then wet sand but the unused paint won't last that long and I'd hate to have to clean the sprayer each time. I bet 2 oz. oz paint and the approp. hardener would be enough for 1 saw.
Bob

Your probably right Bob, I would be comfortable with mixing about 4 oz. It turned super windy on me when I got started on it yesterday. Painting inside or on a calm day, sure would have been better. I think half the time no paint was hitting the parts, then you would get closer, to account for the wind and get too much on. It would have made a great "not how to paint video".

Now the fun begins, trying not to mess up your paint job, while assembling the saw...LOL
I'll try and take some pictures as I go along, and make some progress. The black top cover was another fiasco. I tried some semi-gloss paint for motorcycle & snowmobile engines. That dried looking real gray, instead of black. It sucked. So I ended up using good old Rustoleum semi-gloss black on it. Don't know how it will hold up, but looks better.


Gregg,

 

[dboyd351]

Your probably right Bob, I would be comfortable with mixing about 4 oz. It turned super windy on me when I got started on it yesterday. Painting inside or on a calm day, sure would have been better. I think half the time no paint was hitting the parts, then you would get closer, to account for the wind and get too much on. It would have made a great "not how to paint video".

Now the fun begins, trying not to mess up your paint job, while assembling the saw...LOL
I'll try and take some pictures as I go along, and make some progress. The black top cover was another fiasco. I tried some semi-gloss paint for motorcycle & snowmobile engines. That dried looking real gray, instead of black. It sucked. So I ended up using good old Rustoleum semi-gloss black on it. Don't know how it will hold up, but looks better.


Gregg,

I know pretty much nothing about saw painting. But, if you like the look of the Rustoleum black and are worried about durability, you might want to consider clear coating it. According to one of the guys who does clear coat on his bars, a product called Spray Max 2K Rapid Cut-in Spot Clear Coat works well. It is a 2 part paint in a spray can with a 24 hour pot life once activated, according to the directions on the can. I bought some, but haven't used it yet.

 

[cmarti]

I know pretty much nothing about saw painting. But, if you like the look of the Rustoleum black and are worried about durability, you might want to consider clear coating it. According to one of the guys who does clear coat on his bars, a product called Spray Max 2K Rapid Cut-in Spot Clear Coat works well. It is a 2 part paint in a spray can with a 24 hour pot life once activated, according to the directions on the can. I bought some, but haven't used it yet.

Just make sure your clear and base are compatible......I have pickled some filler with primer, primers with base coats, and base coats with clear coats.....I should have paid attention in chemistry:msp_razz:. Wagnerworks is pretty knowledable, or the auto paint guy will give you the right stuff.

 

[OhioGregg]

I decided to do a little assembly on the old 5200 today. Going pretty well, got the rings, cylinder, muffler, reed cage, modules, etc. I have a question for the experts (Mark), or anyone else who might know. in the one pic, there is a little gizmo laying in front of the saw. I new when I took this apart, I probably wouldn't remember where it went! I was right, that was months ago. LOL I don't even know what to call it. Can't find anything in the IPL's that looks like it either. it has a small round rubber pad on it. Any help ID ing that piece, and where it might go, would help this dumb-ass out greatly. LOL

Gregg,

 

[zogger]

Just a guess, is that an oiler outlet cover/diverter?

edit: and I fail it! hahahaha

 

[67 Mustang]

I decided to do a little assembly on the old 5200 today. Going pretty well, got the rings, cylinder, muffler, reed cage, modules, etc. I have a question for the experts (Mark), or anyone else who might now. in the one pic, there is a little gizmo laying in front of the saw. I new when I took this apart, I probably wouldn't remember where it went! I was right, that was months ago. LOL I don't even know what to call it. Can't find anything in the IPL's that looks like it either. it has a small round rubber pad on it. Any help ID ing that piece, and where it might go, would help this dumb-ass out greatly. LOL

Gregg,

Really nice job, Gregg! I got an 8500 that needs some paint on it when you get ready.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Gregg, you should have two of those things and they go between the case and the outer side of the 2 middle AV mounts. One on each side. There like limeters so the mounts can only get streached so far.

 

[OhioGregg]

Really nice job, Gregg! I got an 8500 that needs some paint on it when you get ready.

LOL, Thanks Steve, but if I paint a 8500, I'm afraid it would never leave.

Gregg, you should have two of those things and they go between the case and the outer side of the 2 middle AV mounts. One on each side. There like limeters so the mounts can only get streached so far.

Thanks a heap Mark! There was only the one. I'll look at it again and see if I can get this where it belongs. I know when I took the saw apart, I never saw one of these. The hole in it seems to be elongated, so can be adjusted. I guess one of them will be better than none..

Thanks for the help!


Gregg,