Best way to remove JB weld

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decableguy2000

decableguy2000

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I found a Husqvarna 261 on CL this evening for $30. I picked it up for the metal chain brake and top cover for my 262. I was going to part it but after closer inspection i may just run it. Its low on compression about 100lbs according to my gauge. Piston looks okay. Here comes the million dollar question. What is the best way to remove jb weld from the decompression port? I'm thinking new ring at worst and a few other odds and ends.

Jeremy
 
WoodTick007

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JB Weld

I HATE JB Weld.... It is total garbage. . . If someone says use JB Weld... its like them saying: Put this garbage on your item rather than fixing properly....Guarantee its going to fail in the future at the most inopportune time.... People use it and then when it fails it makes performing a quality welding repair much more difficult. Especially when trying to tig weld an aluminum casting :(

I would just leave it as drilling and trying to re-tap is going to result in a ruining the cylinder
 
groundup

groundup

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I HATE JB Weld.... It is total garbage. . . If someone says use JB Weld... its like them saying: Put this garbage on your item rather than fixing properly....Guarantee its going to fail in the future at the most inopportune time.... People use it and then when it fails it makes performing a quality welding repair much more difficult. Especially when trying to tig weld an aluminum casting :(

I would just leave it as drilling and trying to re-tap is going to result in a ruining the cylinder

Damn dude, have a beer and calm down :givebeer:
 
chadihman

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I HATE JB Weld.... It is total garbage. . . If someone says use JB Weld... its like them saying: Put this garbage on your item rather than fixing properly....Guarantee its going to fail in the future at the most inopportune time.... People use it and then when it fails it makes performing a quality welding repair much more difficult. Especially when trying to tig weld an aluminum casting :(

I would just leave it as drilling and trying to re-tap is going to result in a ruining the cylinder

JB weld has it's place. I once cut through an upper transfer while raising it. It was just a little hole but I roughed up the outside of the cylinder and filled the cooling fin area with JB weld I smoothed the JB weld in the transfer port and ran the cylinder without any problems. Not proud of it but it worked.
 
naturelover

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I've seen it holding on the outside of a truck air tank before, with 120psi of air pushing out on it..

Had several rust pinholes in it from a dent, so that was the temporary patch.

It eventually rusted out around the patch....




Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
Jimmy in NC

Jimmy in NC

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JB weld has it's place. I once cut through an upper transfer while raising it. It was just a little hole but I roughed up the outside of the cylinder and filled the cooling fin area with JB weld I smoothed the JB weld in the transfer port and ran the cylinder without any problems. Not proud of it but it worked.

It does have it's place. When used selectively it's ok.

As for the cylinder, while not ideal I would leave it alone.
 
fearofpavement

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I HATE JB Weld.... It is total garbage. . . If someone says use JB Weld... its like them saying: Put this garbage on your item rather than fixing properly....Guarantee its going to fail in the future at the most inopportune time.... People use it and then when it fails it makes performing a quality welding repair much more difficult. Especially when trying to tig weld an aluminum casting :(

I would just leave it as drilling and trying to re-tap is going to result in a ruining the cylinder

I disagree with almost everything in this post except for the part that if it may get welded, then don't use JB Weld first.
JB Weld isn't a solution for everything but I have used it successfully in a number of applications and thus always have some on hand. If the poster has had no success at all with it, likely it wasn't used correctly or was used in the wrong application.
 
galde

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There will always be some J-B Weld in my shop, as it works very well for certain applications. It isn't suitable for high-temperature aplications, as it gets soft like fresh putty at 300 deg F.
 
514mach1

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Yep, my favorite way to remove JB Weld is to just heat it up with a little butane torch. JB Weld is fine. It's just an epoxy. Nothing special. It doesn't take the place of legit metal welding, but if something needs that sort of epoxy, then it does fine.
 
a. palmer jr.
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Yep, my favorite way to remove JB Weld is to just heat it up with a little butane torch. JB Weld is fine. It's just an epoxy. Nothing special. It doesn't take the place of legit metal welding, but if something needs that sort of epoxy, then it does fine.

Yep, that's how I remove about any epoxy, just get the propane torch out providing it's not used to repair plastic.
 
john_bud

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I would wonder what's UNDER that JB weld. The previous owner may have buggered up the threads something nasty. Tried to retap new threads and buggered it up worse. THen just buried the problem under a mound of epoxy. (seen that before and wound up putting JB weld back !)
 
decableguy2000

decableguy2000

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Update

I hate Linkbucks, this the only site it will pop up on.

Well I couldn't help it I had to pick at the JB weld. Seemed kind of soft, I put a screwdriver in it and start digging. Then I just unscrewed the JB weld out. The treads look good and a decompression screwed right in. Still low compression, I bet PO tried to see if that was the problem.

Jeremy
 

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