Old splitting maul?

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Nice work, that polishing job looks great. My dad handed me down his 6lb maul, it is marked Japan Forged. Looks similar to yours, but had a proper convex splitting grind. That is a nice weight, it has plenty of mass to carry through tough, crooked grained wood but is light enough to maintain a good swing for hours on end.

Put a nice straight, unfinished hickory handle on it and treat/finish it with BLO. The advice on the previous page about setting a handle is solid.
 
Thanks full chisel.... Whats BLO? Sorry I'm still a newbie to these kinds of projects, and not good with wordplay at all.
 
Just got home with the handle guys, about to start shaping it. Wish me luck. I don't have any carving knives or glass to break so I have an assortment of knives. I'm starting with the trusty buck.
 

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We'll she's done. I probably could have taking a little more time, but I think it came out really good and if it doesn't perform then a new handle is $6 at atwoods. Lol

I'll let everyone know how it does tomorrow.
 

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We'll she's done. I probably could have taking a little more time, but I think it came out really good and if it doesn't perform then a new handle is $6 at atwoods. Lol

I'll let everyone know how it does tomorrow.

Looking good!! I would put on a rubber donut...reminds me, I got to get another one, the sledge one finally fell apart a month ago.

Harry K
 
We'll guys it split ok. I could definitely tell there was a lot more power with the maul over my splitting axe. The maul wanted to bounce bad. I'm guessing I need to thin the edge down a little or maybe just take the shoulders down some. It cuts good until it gets to the shoulder then it bounces back out. Any suggestions?
 
I'm swinging it damn hard, it goes about a half inch into the round and that's it. I know if I thin it down some it will stick worst but I feel like it will get started and split better. If I'm wrong let me know cause I have no idea. Just seems like it makes sense.
 
We'll guys it split ok. I could definitely tell there was a lot more power with the maul over my splitting axe. The maul wanted to bounce bad. I'm guessing I need to thin the edge down a little or maybe just take the shoulders down some. It cuts good until it gets to the shoulder then it bounces back out. Any suggestions?

Some wood is like that. Green Black Locust will even reject a steel wedge slammed with a 10lb sledge. I have had to resort to sawing a shallow kerf to get a wedge to stick. It is odd for a wood that is actually easy splitting.

Another technique that sometimes works is to hold your maul on your mark and hit the poll with a sledge hammer.

Harry K
 
I know what you're talking about, like logs made of rubber. My prescription for logs that refuse to split is an old hatchet with a good sharp edge and a flush head. Drive it into the end grain to get it started, then use a sledge or maul head to drive it to the handle. Then use a wedge in the split and drive it home. This technique can split some big and tough rounds with ease. Sometimes the maul isn't quite enough to pop them open. But once you break them open it's off to the races.
 
What do you use for the rubber donuts?

Buy them at the same place that sells handles. They come in the "sledge" handle style (round hole) and the 'maul' style (oblong hole).

Confession (blush). The loose head finally came off my maul today. I had reset the handle twice already so it was beyond resetting a third time. Off to town for a new handle but....broke down and bought a "Collins Ax" 6lb maul with plastic handle instead. Needs sharpening and perhaps some reshaping to reduce the 'cheeks'.

Harry K
 
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