If you have a SEM flywheel you can make a puller from a flat plate with 3 holes and 3 jacking screws. I don't know if this works on a early FEMSA flywheel. Worked great for me on my 298XP with 3 dog starter on a SEM FW. Saves the crankshaft.
Just bought a Husqvarna 2100 CD
- Thread starter blk05crew
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If you have a SEM flywheel you can make a puller from a flat plate with 3 holes and 3 jacking screws. I don't know if this works on a early FEMSA flywheel. Worked great for me on my 298XP with 3 dog starter on a SEM FW. Saves the crankshaft.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I do have the flywheel with the 3 holes. What are jacking screws?
socket head cap screws M5x25
William Balaska
Addicted to ArboristSite
The idol will change when turned on its side if bad. Maybe the piston skirt is excessively worn.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
That's what I thought. The piston is new, never been used.
William Balaska
Addicted to ArboristSite
Try another carb if possible if replacement of the other seal doesn't fix the problem. I had seals that looked pliable but we're bad.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Ok thanks for the tip. I'm going to try and get the flywheel off again tonight and replace the other seal. If that doesn't do it I'll look to try a different carb.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The idle speed doesn't always change with saw 'tilt' when the seal is bad. Happens often...........but not always (and the absence of change with 'tilt' does not rule out a bad/leaking seal). Common misconception......
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Good to know, thank you! I'll get the other changed out tonight.
Can you please share with me. I have a 2100 I'm planning to go through eventually. Thanks.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Got the flywheel off and the other seal changed last night. Didn't help any with the idle issue.
H at 1 turn and L at 1 3/4 turns is where it's closest to idling with the chain stopped but when the
chain gets close to stopping the saw dies. I may need to get another carb, I feel like that has to be
the issue now.
H at 1 turn and L at 1 3/4 turns is where it's closest to idling with the chain stopped but when the
chain gets close to stopping the saw dies. I may need to get another carb, I feel like that has to be
the issue now.
William Balaska
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds like you're going in the right direction. Remember how old these saws are as I've had more than one case seal Leak as well. It would be in your best interest to vacuum test and pressure test as well.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks I'll have to have that done if I can't figure it out with the carb/fuel system. It wouldn't have anything to do with the new piston and rings and that I haven't
cut with it to seat the rings would it? That may be a dumb question but I wasn't sure.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Does the fuel tank vent on this look right? I'm used to Poulan vents
Tomos770
ArboristSite Guru
blk05crew
I like 'em green
May or may not tell you anything.
Do a proper vacuum/pressure leak test to conclusively determine the integrity of your case and all other pertinent sealing points.
Period.
Do a proper vacuum/pressure leak test to conclusively determine the integrity of your case and all other pertinent sealing points.
Period.
Is idle maybe ok but weak clutch springs?
But P V test is worth it anyway as essential step.
But P V test is worth it anyway as essential step.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Well found the leak, kinda. Sprayed carb cleaner right at the intake and the saw died. So I made new gaskets for the intake touching the cylinder and touching the carb and sprayed it again and it died again. Intake isn't cracked so I'm not sure where the leak is.Here is where I sprayed the carb cleaner.
Is this an example of where the tillitson carb kit gasket does not work correctly and the husky carb gasket is needed to seal the impulse port properly?
