blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks, I'll have to see what I can figure out.
Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type
- Thread starter Homelitesuperxl
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Thanks, I'll have to see what I can figure out.
I had an idea once that if it wasn't too rough on the hands, that bedliner stuff you paint on would be durable enough. Jonsered used a substance once that wasn't really paint, but wasn't really an anodized finish either....kind of a flat black finish that worked well. On the J'red site here, we can't figure out what that black was exactly.
Correctness be damned....you just need something that has good grip wet and feels good on your hands all day.
Kevin
blk05crew
I like 'em green
That's not a bad idea, probably wouldn't be too bad with the right gloves.
Yeah, I was thinking if you could get it thin enough with some random bumpiness...not sand like...but smallish bumps. I usually wear cotton fallin' gloves anyway....Madsen's or Bailey's...actually I'm boycotting Bailey's. Last guy on the phone there said I was runnin' "antique" saws and needed to buy all new.
I've got this old, giant Grumman canoe that has a bump finish I painted on the bottom(inside) exactly like the original. I even went back to the marine store I bought it from and the guy said there was never such a thing. It would be perfect for a saw if I could find it again but I can't fix stupid counter guys.
Kevin
blk05crew
I like 'em green
He must not appreciate things built the right way to last! Not saying new saws are built last I don't have any experience with new saws.
"dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales"
Not sure I'd be believing what comes out of a horses butt. I worked as a field service engineer and had to fix what "salesmen" and reps promised or said....
I learned real quick to be a cynic about dealers, even factory reps who are baby sitters and when required ....paid liars. But working for the "company" I had to keep my mouth shut...
Sure 3 electronic different ignitions and all the associated bits like flywheels. See the timing of release of the ignitions in 83 and then 3 years later the XP's came out.
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls
But the XP seemed to start with piston version #5....not the ignition change.
Big discussion on another thread that seems to have merit. Especially about the transitional 2100CD going to 2100XP before 2101XP came out.
Not sure I'd be believing what comes out of a horses butt. I worked as a field service engineer and had to fix what "salesmen" and reps promised or said....
I learned real quick to be a cynic about dealers, even factory reps who are baby sitters and when required ....paid liars. But working for the "company" I had to keep my mouth shut...Sure 3 electronic different ignitions and all the associated bits like flywheels. See the timing of release of the ignitions in 83 and then 3 years later the XP's came out.
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls
But the XP seemed to start with piston version #5....not the ignition change.
Big discussion on another thread that seems to have merit. Especially about the transitional 2100CD going to 2100XP before 2101XP came out.
"dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales"
Not sure I'd be believing what comes out of a horses butt. I worked as a field service engineer and had to fix what "salesmen" and reps promised or said....
Sure 3 electronic different ignitions and all the associated bits like flywheels. See the timing of release of the ignitions in 83 and then 3 years later the XP's came out.
atlanticgreen.com/images/H-56mmx40mmparts.xls
But the XP seemed to start with piston version #5....not the ignition change.
Big discussion on another thread that seems to have merit. Especially about the transitional 2100CD going to 2100XP before 2101XP came out.
Except that it was the late 70's when we did this, not the 80's and the XP module was already in the IPL that the dealer had. So you're trying to say that the Husky regional rep was making this shite up? No discussion now has merit unless you're talking to people back then in the know who worked on and sold parts for the 2100's. There's obviously more to it than you think if the XP module was listed in the late 70's and available, because I bought that one and installed it without incident or flywheel change etc. Granted, I knew then about a third of what I know now about saw internals. But I do remember the order and install.
Kevin
So I'm wondering how you finish the wrap...tuck it in somehow? Glue will be real iffy in that environ with gas & oil mix, tree pitch etc.
OK, I just followed the links, that's bicycle wrap and cork at that(the bar wrap). I can tell you the self-adhesive stuff won't hold up to oil & gas. I have cork tape on my bikes...it won't hold up to this environ. It barely holds up very long to sweaty hands.
Had me excited there for a minute...thought this was something to do with chainsaws....lol!
Kevin
My mind thought it could work.... Didn't know... I saw a friend wrapping his road bike years ago and that gave me the idea.
Good idea...just too light weight for this environ. Somebody could make some chainsaw bar wrap if they wanted to, outa some high-tech polymer whatever. Surprised it hasn't been done, because Stihl markets the only bar tubing left, that I know of. And I sure ain't no Stihl fan....lol
Kevin
blk05crew
I like 'em green
I'm still liking the idea of bed liner, I'm going to see if I can find some in a spray can.
Last comment on this ..I don't want to be argumentative. 4 (5 with early 298XP) systems in the IPLs. 73-78 FEMSA, 78-79 SEM1A, 81-82 SEM1B, 83-90/end SEM2 during XP era. All the parts of the late 70's IPL were GONE buy the XP era mid 80's on. I do believe you and it was probably a SEM item. Did they give you a 1983 item in the late 70's? who knows....I still don't trust or believe salesmen.
"trust but verify"
It was a SEM's module...other than that, I can't argue yrs because that was the only module failure I ever had. I understand your mistrust of salesmen and reps. I certainly had similar experiences in cars/trucks.
Kevin
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
I wouldn't go with any spray can stuff.. you NEED a 2 part urethane or epoxy if you want it to hold up.. all spray can stuff will get eaten by fuel as it hardens by solvent evaporation.. the 2 part stuff chemically hardens.
Of course buying a bedliner kit to do one saw is a bit overkill, though perhaps if you had a truck to do (especially a shortbox), you'd have some left over for the saw.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Good to know thanks. My truck is already bed lined so I may have to find out a different option. I probably won't be using the 2100 a ton, more occasionally so I might be able to get by like it is if I pick up some good gloves. I'll probably just try that first.
Good to know about the rattle can liner....sounds like a convenience compromise. Wouldn't they sell small cans for touch-up etc?
Kevin
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
Perhaps an auto body shop would have some left over? Would be the first place I'd look
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Don't know if this helps, but here is a pic of the flywheel on mine and it also has the SEM coil which I had to patch and put liquid electrical tape on last night.
I get better luck with Permatex Auto Ultra Black silicone than I do the liquid electric tape. I use them both, but only the Ultra Black product if the joint has to flex. The liquid stuff has failed me when the joint had to be moved around. That Ultra Black stuff is almost indestructible....adheres like crazy and you'll pay the Devil to remove it.
Supposedly, there is a marine version of the liquid tape, but I've never used it.
Kevin
Supposedly, there is a marine version of the liquid tape, but I've never used it.
Kevin
