I didn't get around to cleaning out around the oiler yet, tho I am probably just going to upgrade to the high output oiler. If anyone has lakeside's pictures from the HO oiler upgrade 3 part post pleaaaase send them to me.
But anyways--
I got into a stump yesterday and the saw was a monster at first. 7 tooth sprocket, sharp chain semi chisel skip tooth , got into the work, wedged like suggested and went nice and easy. about half way through she started to bog, I backed off and kept at it. I was making progress not much but a little, then I noticed it was getting hot again so I backed out. This is after about 3-5 min of cutting.
Everything again was piping hot to the touch. The clutch cover was so hot a bead of sweat dropped of my head hit it and boiled away.
I took it home and went to take it apart. Crap, the clutch cover was seized to the clutch. @#!$%!!! Oh wait, the chain brake is on. (Yes I have so much to learn)
Anyways again there is gunk in the cover. So let me pose a theory to what is going on.
Theory is I have an oil leak around the pump. Saw cuts fine upright, but once I go to cut stumps, with the saw on its side the oil leaks into the clutch cover. The oil causes the clutch to slip in the cover which in turn causes it to bog and cause a **** ton of friction. Also the oil leak causes the bar get hot because it isn't getting enough oil (tho when I test it, I do get oil off the tip of the bar.)
What do you guys think? Plausible?
Also with all that friction and heat should I replace my clutch? or any part on it?
So you think it bogged then caused fiction..I disagree I think it caused friction and then bogged
But I do think your 'clutch' is slipping...figuratively speaking.
lol j/k
Would I put my hand in front of a Crocodile's nose or in your chain ...No
Would I have you hold the trigger down with me holding on to the chain or hold the crocks mouth shut with my hands...yes
You no why? You do know why right? Because this crocs dead and the chainsaws not running.
no that's not why because I can without consequences.
OK the croc is a bad example.. That was just for effect
but my point is: Motors and Muscles love momentum
The saw will stop dead under load if it clutches out and not bogg. If you are deep in the cut you will likely have to pull the saw out of the cut and clear it. The bogg down that you are experiencing that Brian explained can be part of the game.
Saws are more ceseptable to plugging when Dogs are in use. To much pressure or jerky action could be a contributing factor as was just mentioned (technique) You should be able to control your revs a bit better; (slang: floating in the cut)
Sometimes you have to file for the majority not only would tree species determine that but angle, amount of cutters in the cut and where the cut is placed (low in the stump)
As far as clutch spring damage,oil and such:
A couple questions for you:
How long dose it take your chain to stop out of the cut when reved....3 1/2 -4 sec should be normal.
If the saw seems to not stop(racing)
Thats an indication of soft springs or missing and the clutch will get dam hot more so on and of the trigger also make sure that brake or something is not dragging. If you have a fast idle and apply the brake while you are warming it you will get that 'clutch smoking also. I saw the pic of the clutch the other day and it wasn't black so no visible signs there. Who is putting your chains together??? Make sure the masters aren't over spun it will be worse going through the 7 T sprocket and will generate heat.
Tight chains generate heat and are hard on 'clutch side Bearings and that's the kicker and one of the first things that came to mind the other day and that was bottom end bearing heating and slowing the saw down. Let's hope not.
Btw I have had a 8 pin on it since new and its cut 1500 stumps with plenty power
A 660 should no doubt keep up with a 372 so plug, coil air filtration 
