Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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But wait. More surprises....
Tim, I know its missing at least one of the three "studs" "posts" whatever you want to call them, that the cover sets on. A lot of them I have seen on the older models are missing. I think the vibration eventually does them in. I think long time ago I tried JB welding some kind of pin there. After about one use of the saw, that was no good. I do like the 3 screw type much better. Vibes dont seem to bother them. My 4200, still has all of its studs yet.
This side still has both..
Gregg,
This side still has both..
Gregg,
That's a 3400 / 3800 AF cover. All of the smooth finish black ones I have are on re-branded saws. Having said that, they did a lot of mix and match on the saws assembled in Canada.
I have a 3400 that has the hole in the case for the adjustable oiler but does not have the adjustable oiler.
I have a 3400 that has the hole in the case for the adjustable oiler but does not have the adjustable oiler.
Why are there thin rings on this 3000? Hmmm thought these were chrome piston saws. Insides great. I'll take 150psi. And not that it matters much but the .325 rim is nice. 
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Agree. You can generally tell the condition and use by the rear handle. If the paint isn't worn off it usually is in good shape.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Love those 3000's. Comp of 150 is typical. Great score.
Tim, I know its missing at least one of the three "studs" "posts" whatever you want to call them, that the cover sets on. A lot of them I have seen on the older models are missing. I think the vibration eventually does them in. I think long time ago I tried JB welding some kind of pin there. After about one use of the saw, that was no good. I do like the 3 screw type much better. Vibes dont seem to bother them. My 4200, still has all of its studs yet.
This side still has both..
Gregg,
If you're concerned about it, size the hole and get a roll pin that will be an interference fit and cut it to the right length if required. I would clean out the hole well and use some red Loctite thread locker or better still, if you have some, Loctite retaining compound.
The little rubber covers can be had as toggle switch covers. They may have them at Home Depot in the specialty fastener bins. I doubt that would come out.
I finally clear coated my repainted 4200. Not the best job as it's my first try with a sprayer. I'll post some pics when it's back together. I did learn alot through the process.
Are you back to feeling your normal self now?
The 3000's have a plated cylinder. I hear they are an excellent saw. These two docs from Poulan will come in very handy for bore and piston sizes as well as plating on P&C's
I finally got this one back together with a new AF cover, resealed case, new fuel and oil lines and new crank seals. I runs well.
Thanks Tim, I may try and do something different with the pin thing. I just kinda put that insignificant annoyance on the back burner, so to speak. lol
I'm feeling pretty much back to normal I guess. At least for an old fart.
To make things worse or better, depending on how you look at it, I been trying to quit smoking at the same time. They gave me the "patch" the first day I was in the hospital. I havn't smoked until Tuesday. Have had a couple since then. I ordered some electronic nicotine cigs, gonna try those too..LOL I have been a smoker since I was 16. So this will be a tough one to crack.Saw the Dr. the other day...He was happy, so I guess I'm happy. Has got me on some blood pressure med. I can live with taking a couple pills every day I guess. Still havn't been out running a saw yet. But, thats not really a health issue, just a to dam cold or lazy and don't feel like it..LOL
Gregg,
Good to hear you're going to stop smoking also. I've had about 30 cigars sense I got out of the hospital then I quit, started using a E-cig. Not too bad but takes some getting used to, 18mg of nicotine, need some alittle stronger. Nos we I smell someone who smoke, ga they stink, now I know how I smelt, I stunk. Don't give up.[emoji3]Thanks Tim, I may try and do something different with the pin thing. I just kinda put that insignificant annoyance on the back burner, so to speak. lol
I'm feeling pretty much back to normal I guess. At least for an old fart.
Saw the Dr. the other day...He was happy, so I guess I'm happy. Has got me on some blood pressure med. I can live with taking a couple pills every day I guess. Still havn't been out running a saw yet. But, thats not really a health issue, just a to dam cold or lazy and don't feel like it..LOL
Gregg,
Steve
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Great stuff! Thank you! Another piece to the Poulan Puzzle and a nice compliment to the "Model Date Control Index" that you posted some time ago.
How do you guys clean your saws when you first get them for tear down? Here is what I do. Air, parts brushes, scrapers if they are really grimy. I disassemble as much as possible and put pieces in parts washer that I can. Than take other parts and wash off by hand. Once complete blow everything off with air again to dry. Than proceed to rebuild with what is needed.
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Pretty much same as you. I did use a power washer on one, one time.
They ALL get cleaned and tore down anyway. I never even try to start a saw until I get them back together, carbs rebuilt etc. Thats as clean as my saws will ever be, unfortunately. The saws I use will get blown off, wiped down etc, but they are never gonna be as clean as the time I resurrect them. Gregg,
DrewUth
Jack of all trades, master of none.
I see so many pictures on here of saws that are getting worked on but are still covered in grime, it blows my mind. The first thing I do before I even think about before doing any work at all is clean the funk out of all the nooks and crannies. First air, then a spray solvent- I like brake cleaner bc it comes out like a cannon- then more air. I use the parts washer sometimes, but I'm too cheap for real parts wash solution so I just use kerosene in it; cleans well but doesn't leave the parts dry like brake clean.
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