Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My brother in law that I'm give the S25DA to started making handmade knives a few months ago. He shapes, heat treats, makes and shapes the handles and sharpens, the whole process. Anyway, he made me one and I got it yesterday. Figured I'd share since some of you are hunters and they are more of a hunting knife. Plus the green inlay looks like Poulan green:)

20160203_093559_resized.jpg
20160203_095159_resized.jpg
 
My brother in law that I'm give the S25DA to started making handmade knives a few months ago. He shapes, heat treats, makes and shapes the handles and sharpens, the whole process. Anyway, he made me one and I got it yesterday. Figured I'd share since some of you are hunters and they are more of a hunting knife. Plus the green inlay looks like Poulan green:)

View attachment 483422
View attachment 483423
Awesome. How much
 
Replaced the crank seals on the S25DA last night and it's better but still leaking some air somewhere. Any other spots that are prone to leak on this model? Carb is good, new fuel line, filter and vent and new seals done so far.

It's usually crank seals, blown oil pump dia, or the cylinder jug, but I've found a couple with the top cylinder stud leaking around it's threads in the case. I've had to repull the cylinder & then remove the stud & epoxy (JB Weld) it in. Annoying place to have a leak, at the least.

The carb intake screws also need sealer on the very ends, even when pressure testing, as they go all the way into the crank case.

Motoseal U1 or that tar looking Permatex pipe dope works there, UltraBlack silicone did not work.
 
Its usually crank seals or the cylinder jug, but I've found a couple with the top cylinder stud leaking around
it's threads in the case. I've had to repull the cylinder & then remove the stud & epoxy (JB Weld) it in. Annoying place to have a leak, at the least.

The carb intake screws also need sealer on the very ends, even when pressure testing, as they go all
the way into the crank case.

Motoseal U1 or that tar looking Permatex pipe dope works there, UltraBlack silicone did not work.

Good info, thank you. I'll have to check the top cylinder stud too.
 
Its usually crank seals or the cylinder jug, but I've found a couple with the top cylinder stud leaking around
it's threads in the case. I've had to repull the cylinder & then remove the stud & epoxy (JB Weld) it in.
Annoying place to have a leak, at the least.

The carb intake screws also need sealer on the very ends, even when pressure testing, as they go all
the way into the crank case.

Motoseal U1 or that tar looking Permatex pipe dope works there, UltraBlack silicone did not work.

In all my years and many S25's I have never put a sealer on the carb bolts. I even pressure tested that 25D just a week ago, once I replaced the seals it would hold 8lbs pressure forever.

Even if the threads did leak a minute amount it would be a controlled leak and would never affect a tune once set.
 
In all my years and many S25's I have never put a sealer on the carb bolts. I even pressure tested that 25D just a week ago, once I replaced the seals it would hold 8lbs pressure forever.

Even if the threads did leak a minute amount it would be a controlled leak and would never affect a tune once set.

I just did three S25s back to back Saturday, and two of the three bubbled out at the threads. I use a wedge shaped piece of 1/4" Viton rubber to seal the intake and the impulse hole, so it stands the carb up away from the screw holes outside.

I'm not going to pull them back down and make you a soap bubbling Brad Snelling leak video, but I guarantee you that the bubbles were coming out there.

I totally agree that you can tune that out with the mixture screws, but it is a leak.
 
I just did three S25s back to back Saturday, and two of the three bubbled out at the threads. I use a wedge shaped piece of 1/4" Viton rubber to seal the intake and the impulse hole, so it stands the carb up away from the screw holes outside.

I'm not going to pull them back down and make you a soap bubbling Brad Snelling leak video, but I guarantee you that the bubbles were coming out there.

I totally agree that you can tune that out with the mixture screws, but it is a leak.

Yeah if thats the method you used I can see that. Once a carb and gasket are on it, I doubt it would leak there at all.

Just don't get folks around here too wound up, seems a lot of folks think they have to be sealed up perfectly each and everytime. You would go crazy on some of these old saws trying to get to that point.

Go run a vac test on a Homelite 330 sometime. They have a hole in the case under the reed valves so it is impossible to pressure/vac test one of those but again it is a constant controlled air leak.
 
Hey guys! Anyone know much about the little poulan micro xxv deluxe? I have got one I found at my local tip, its really quite clean an has not seem a lot of use, its the no AV model serial no:30411061. It has a walbro WA-19 series carb. I replaced fuel line as well. My question is it spits quite a bit of fuel out the carb under operation is this normal? I have cleaned and semi rebuilt the carb with leftover parts from a k-10 kit. It also seem quite rich and hard to tune the low speed so it spools up without hesitation and sits back down to a nice idle. I have it pretty good but its not perfect. It also seems to have a system similar to 'air injection' where the filter is in front of the carb, not on top or behind the venturi. I have no experience with this model saw or Poulan's in general so any advice would be appreciated. I really like this saw and the build quality for its age, I hope to get some bigger countervibes some day as I am impressed with these quality USA green saws. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Hey guys! Anyone know much about the little poulan micro xxv deluxe? I have got one I found at my local tip, its really quite clean an has not seem a lot of use, its the no AV model serial no:30411061. It has a walbro WA-19 series carb. I replaced fuel line as well. My question is it spits quite a bit of fuel out the carb under operation is this normal? I have cleaned and semi rebuilt the carb with leftover parts from a k-10 kit. It also seem quite rich and hard to tune the low speed so it spools up without hesitation and sits back down to a nice idle. I have it pretty good but its not perfect. It also seems to have a system similar to 'air injection' where the filter is in front of the carb, not on top or behind the venturi. I have no experience with this model saw or Poulan's in general so any advice would be appreciated. I really like this saw and the build quality for its age, I hope to get some bigger countervibes some day as I am impressed with these quality USA green saws. Thanks in advance for any advice.

It shouldn't be spitting fuel out of the carb. I don't know much the micro's, never worked on one, but someone should be along soon that can help.
 
Hey guys! Anyone know much about the little poulan micro xxv deluxe? I have got one I found at my local tip, its really quite clean an has not seem a lot of use, its the no AV model serial no:30411061. It has a walbro WA-19 series carb. I replaced fuel line as well. My question is it spits quite a bit of fuel out the carb under operation is this normal? I have cleaned and semi rebuilt the carb with leftover parts from a k-10 kit. It also seem quite rich and hard to tune the low speed so it spools up without hesitation and sits back down to a nice idle. I have it pretty good but its not perfect. It also seems to have a system similar to 'air injection' where the filter is in front of the carb, not on top or behind the venturi. I have no experience with this model saw or Poulan's in general so any advice would be appreciated. I really like this saw and the build quality for its age, I hope to get some bigger countervibes some day as I am impressed with these quality USA green saws. Thanks in advance for any advice.

The carb sets right on top of the reed valve so yes they get some spitback out of the carb, perfectly normal for those. If your having troubles tuning the low speed, you need to check for vacuum leaks like crank seals.

Is the auto oiler working? If not and the check valve is bad that can cause running issues also. Those saws were introduced in 1977 so some have some real age on them now and need new rubber parts like seals.

Send me a PM with your email address...

SKF 4913 are the crank seals you would need to get and there the same on both sides.
 
The carb sets right on top of the reed valve so yes they get some spitback out of the carb, perfectly normal for those. If your having troubles tuning the low speed, you need to check for vacuum leaks like crank seals.

Is the auto oiler working? If not and the check valve is bad that can cause running issues also. Those saws were introduced in 1977 so some have some real age on them now and need new rubber parts like seals.

Send me a PM with your email address...

SKF 4913 are the crank seals you would need to get and there the same on both sides.
If the check valve oiler is bad the saw will like to smoke as well due to oil bypass issues.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top