Chain just wont cut

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Reckon chain is OK, then go over cutter bar. It's one or the other.

ps..with respect, but the depth gauges don't "look" to have much filed off them.
 
That's interesting, but confusing.

Some chains come 'clipped' by the manufacturer. The front edge (top plate) will still dig in. The depth gauge will still tip up. It should still 'bite'.

Would love to learn more, and understand how it affects cutting.

Philbert

It doesn't make sense to me (the back of the cutter being the problem). Chain builders clip the tails off of the cutter also when building a race chain.
 
I will go to the shop in a little bit and take a pic of the chain in question. a couple of things I hadnt thought about, but might have some meaning. I normally run a 20in bar with no problems. The bar and chain in question is 24in. I feel the chain isnt getting the oil it needs as I stated already. Just now connecting the dots, (brain dead, CRS, whatever), the longer b/c just maynot be getting enough oil and I probably need to turn the oil up a bit when running the longer chain.
 
Have the teeth been smoked? Blue tint from high heat? If they've lost their temper you can sharpen them and they will dull quickly.

ETA: I'm not a pro, just spit balling, trying to help because you helped me with my splitter build.
 
I cant say how the chain was used before I got it, I havent bluetipped it. The chain doesnt look dull, it just wont cut. I do use a grinder for sharpening, but in all the chains I have put on the grinder, this is the only one I have had problems with. I am leaning toward my problem being the oiler on the saw and the longer b/c, and dont know why I didnt think of it earlier. If it is a oiling problem, I have probably filed the rakers so low now that the saw wont pull the chain. :angry:
 
I cant say how the chain was used before I got it, I havent bluetipped it. The chain doesnt look dull, it just wont cut. I do use a grinder for sharpening, but in all the chains I have put on the grinder, this is the only one I have had problems with. I am leaning toward my problem being the oiler on the saw and the longer b/c, and dont know why I didnt think of it earlier. If it is a oiling problem, I have probably filed the rakers so low now that the saw wont pull the chain. :angry:
It's a waste of good chain but can't you sharpen/shorten the cutters until they're back within spec of the rakers? Good luck.
 
The chain doesnt look dull, it just wont cut. I do use a grinder for sharpening, but in all the chains I have put on the grinder, this is the only one I have had problems with.

If you lightly drag your finger nail over the edge of the tooth it should shave off your nail. That's sharp!
 
It doesn't make sense to me (the back of the cutter being the problem). Chain builders clip the tails off of the cutter also when building a race chain.
I was thinking the same thing. Seems to me the rear end of the cutter technically shouldn't come into contact with the wood, especially if the front edge is rocking upward or porpoising. Any chance the chain is too tight - has to be some looseness to allow the cutter to rock. Pics of the chain are really needed.
 
I cant say how the chain was used before I got it, I havent bluetipped it. The chain doesnt look dull, it just wont cut. I do use a grinder for sharpening, but in all the chains I have put on the grinder, this is the only one I have had problems with. I am leaning toward my problem being the oiler on the saw and the longer b/c, and dont know why I didnt think of it earlier. If it is a oiling problem, I have probably filed the rakers so low now that the saw wont pull the chain. :angry:

I think I know why your buddy gave you this chain.
 
I'm thinking it may be the bar.
With the chain removed, check to see if there is a burr from chain wear. If so take a flat file to remove and then check to see if the shoulders are square and level with each other by back lighting and using a machinist square. One side may be higher than the other and the chain is not running flat. The two things together have caused this problem for me before. I bought a new bar and no problem, which got me looking harder at the old bar. You can buy bar dressers or files to return it to square for just a few bucks.
 
I hope these pics look better on here than on my phone.0327160918.jpg 0327160918.jpg 0327160919.jpg and heres the wood I was bucking, almost all whiteoak with a little popular mixed in, approx 4-5 cords.whiteoak firewood.jpg I bucked all this yesterday using this chain. I stopped and filed the rakers twice, I didnt touch the cutters, chain was sharpened on a grinder before using. I did check the bar, no burs, the bar hasnt had all that much use.
 

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I dont think its the hook. I took a couple more fuzzy pics, compareing the chain in question with a new unsharpened chain. Not sure you can tell by the pics, but the hook is very similar between the two chains. saw chain1.jpg saw chain2.jpg New chain is behind the old one
 
Maybe stop filling on the rakers? Have you measured them?
well, I am pretty sure the rakers are to low now. I started fileing them when I couldnt get the chain to take a bite. I figured if I got them low enough, the chain would have to dig in. Didnt work. I like my rakers low enough so as to just not bog the saw, and not 4 stroke at WOT. This chains rakers are the result of me trying to keep the saw from 4 stokeing in every cut.
 
On the last pic with 2 chains it looks like the raker is high on the old chain. That does not look like the same chain on previous pics?
 
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