muffler falls off farmboss

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jrclen

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Anyone have an idea how to keep the muffler on my 041 Farmboss? The bolts into the cylinder vibrate out. They are not stripped. I have used locktite (blue) and it doesn't seem to help. It's driving me to drink. Pass the small snake.
 
This will sound like a no brainer, but I have to ask; Did you make sure the threads were cleaned of grease or oil before the loctite?

I ask 'cause it should work well. that's the only thing I can think of that would prevent it from working.
 
Try using spray paint on the threads. Just cheap, plain gloss spray paint. Harley owners have been using it for years with better results than Locktite... just ask any old panhead owner.

Spray it on the threads... screw it in while wet.
 
Best to find out why it's vibrating in the first place... 41's aren't known for loosing there mufflers. Do you have the two screw or three screw muffler?


Yes, degrease the threads with carb cleaner (both the screws and in the cylinder), then use locite 272... (red-high temp). Use a torque wrench and make sure they pull full torque. If you need to ever get the screws out, use a point heat gun on each screw first.
 
Try using spray paint on the threads. Just cheap, plain gloss spray paint. Harley owners have been using it for years with better results than Locktite... just ask any old panhead owner.

Spray it on the threads... screw it in while wet.

Not sure this will work at the required temperatures..
 
Anyone have an idea how to keep the muffler on my 041 Farmboss? The bolts into the cylinder vibrate out. They are not stripped. I have used locktite (blue) and it doesn't seem to help. It's driving me to drink. Pass the small snake.

Drill the bolt heads and put some 0.030 stainless safety wire through them. Guaranteed not to come out.

http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html

attachment.php
 
Actually

My mechanic here tells me that it's very common on the 041's. I haven't had it happen, but I tighten mine like once a week or so when I'm using them. Like Lake said, the red loctite for high temp dude. Those 41's got hot as all get out and that prolly killed the blue. Let us know dude... :popcorn:
 
That looks like my race car suspension system. Wire locking definetaly works, but you shouldnt need it on a chainsaw.

Shouldn't need it is right. But then I have never had anything fall off that was wired. I cant say the same about Locktite or sheetmetal tabs.
 
Red Loctite removal procedure is by application of heat......using it to secure bolts in high heat areas is rather pointless


Just the facts
 
Red Loctite removal procedure is by application of heat......using it to secure bolts in high heat areas is rather pointless

Not sure if I totally agree with that statement. Application of heat to remove the red Loctite is essential to "break" the bond. If you are not putting any force to the nut or bolt, then you should be fine even with the temp of the exhaust. I have used the spray paint method on other parts, including an ATV exhaust system, and never had a problem with the heat breaking it down... but then again, I am not sure if I may have used high heat paint I had laying around either... Usually, I will reach for the first rattle can I see.
 
Red Loctite removal procedure is by application of heat......using it to secure bolts in high heat areas is rather pointless


Just the facts


It obviously depends on the heat. The cylinder muffler connection on Stihl saws often exceeds the blue, but is less than the Red-HT.

Many Stihl saws call for either 271, 272 or even 242 (blue) on cylinder-muffler screws - the relevent service manual shows the correct type in the section specifying the fastener torque. And this is old school...
 
fall dow go boom

Are ALL the screws present and tight? If the lower 1 or 2 screws are missing or stripped, it will never stay on, loctite or not.
This is also a good place for Torx screws.
 
Farmboss muffler

I bought a used 041 Farmboss about five years ago. I've thought about removing the muffler a couple of times to inspect for carbon buildup around the exhaust port, but it looked like access to the muffler bolts would require somithing akin to open pit mining, so decided to keep running it until performance decreased enough to indicate the need. The saw is laid up for the winter (as I am temporarily), but can anyone enlighten me as to how to access the muffler screws if it's ever needed? Thanks. Gene Gauss
 
I don't know what the layout looks like but what about making a thin guage steel lock plate, bend up the tabs against one flat of each bolt head, make tabs a little long so they are easy to bend back down to remove it in the future.

or before doing that maybe try different styles of lockwasher, like the star shaped kind.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I did try star lockwashers. There are two screws on the exhaust manifold and one below on the muffler. All three are there when I start sawing. I am lucky to have one or two left an hour later. They are socket head machine screws and I have replaced them with tork heads a couple times, hex heads a couple times, slotted screws once. Not easy to get at but not to bad either. One down from the top. One in from the side. I did get a good laugh out of the safety cables. These are kind of small screws and putting wires in them would take some doing. I will try the high temp locktite. I thought about that but shied away due to the permanent factor. But then again, permanent sounds kind of good. I'll post if I ever get them to stay in. And I am an old Harley Pan owner. I wish I still had it. But my ultra runs good and is easier to start.
 
Best to find out why it's vibrating in the first place... 41's aren't known for loosing there mufflers. Do you have the two screw or three screw muffler?

Yes, degrease the threads with carb cleaner (both the screws and in the cylinder), then use locite 272... (red-high temp). Use a torque wrench and make sure they pull full torque. If you need to ever get the screws out, use a point heat gun on each screw first.

My mechanic here tells me that it's very common on the 041's. I haven't had it happen, but I tighten mine like once a week or so when I'm using them. Like Lake said, the red loctite for high temp dude. Those 41's got hot as all get out and that prolly killed the blue. Let us know dude... :popcorn:

Not known for loose mufflers?? Well I've seen my share on 041's as well as others both stihl and dolmar. Red loctite a must new hardware preferably torx, Also check the quality of the threads in the cylinder they are probably WORN and a couple helicoils might be just the cure..

Scott
 
"Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."

500 degrees F

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/l...kel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=276&layout=2
 
I never had that problem!

In fact, it was a 041 that sold me on Stihl quality.
One time tho I actually tried to remove the muffler to install one with a screen in it. I gave up, and decided that breaking the hardware wasn't worth it. It would seem that eventually the steel screws and aluminum bond somehow! Excellent saw....

-Pat
 

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