bmwpowere36m3
ArboristSite Operative
Ethanol is a cheaper and cleaner octane booster, but it lowers the energy content of fuel... subsides aside.
No, it's in there because it's a huge moneymaking scam forced upon the public in the name of helping the environment, which is a lie for multiple reasons.
And again I donot see EPA at fault for one second! If the manufacturers cannot or donot want to research in new technology to cope with the new emision standards, then they deserve to go under! It isn't like moday morning the new emmision standard is released and nobody knew anything about it! And yes research is expensive but I am sure tax deductible...Guess what, a lot of equipment (i.e. landscaping outdoor power equipment) nowadays have carbs that are completely non-adjustable because of the fascist EPA. And when I say non-adjustable, there are no hidden carb adjustments to defeat, there is nothing you can pry open or grind out to reveal anything.
Obviously you are again ignoring reality. When you pump fuel into an empty container, you drive out all the air. Contact time with the air is two minutes at most and in this time only limited to the surface area. As I mentioned above and clearly you neglected, in ambient temperatures the moisture content of the air is around a few drops per square cubic yard. So you are free to estimate how much moisture your fuel is coming into contact over refueling time. Further the lower the temperature the LESS moisture we have in the air. So below freezing temperatures there is about "zero" moisture in the air.It's absorbing water molecules right out of the atmosphere the moment you are pumping it into a container. The point is, there's no benefit to having something added to gas that has an undesirable chemical property that non-ethanol gas does not have.
Carbon buildup has much more to do with carb settings than the amount of oil included.You didn't read my post thoroughly and instead reacted in a knee-jerk fashion:
If you think 2% of a real, quality synthetic 2 cycle oil (such as Mobil 1 Racing 2T) will result in less carbon buildup and more power than 32:1 or 25:1, you are sadly mistaken, and that's not my opinion, it's a fact.
"Manufacturers" "recommendations" are not "their" recommendations--they're saying that only because of the EPA. Those low amounts of oil like 50:1 are based around being able to pass EMISSIONS. Most manufacturers would FAIL EPA requirements if they fueled their engines with 32:1, 25:1, or 20:1 ratios. You buy a Husqvarna chainsaw in America, and it will say "50:1", you go and buy that exact same model chainsaw in Australia, and it will say "25:1", because Oz doesn't have to cowtow to the EPA like we do here. Oh and Aussie Husky saws also say that you void your warranty if you use any less oil than 25:1.
Have you really read the thread you link to above? Have you read the comments and watched the video linked from @Boleclimber? Did you read the comments on the youtube page from the owner of the saw? Just so you don't accidently overlook it I will quote it.You'd really love to see it eh? Here you go:
15% ethanol destroys 2 cycle.... good read.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/15-ethanol-destroys-2-cycle-good-read.197321/
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy12osti/52909.pdf
http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2012/11/30/aaa-e15-gas-harm-cars/1735793/
AAA warns E15 gasoline could cause car damage
^ I guess the above are all "paranoid!" because you said so, obviously you're more of an authority.
Only in America it seems! You lucky b*stards!I have about 200 carb kit's in stock.
buy fuel line in 50 ft spools.
almost all problems i get now are fuel related.
it dies leaving a yucky coating when it goes bad.
i have seen E10 go bad in a month.
tried marine stabil and startron,had a container of startron treated fuel go bad once.
buy e10 fresh and dont let equipment or fuel set to long and you can go a long time without problems.
I use airplane fuel now,,no problems.
The worst problem with ethanol for fuel is that it takes more energy from oil than it returns, so it is just a waste of fuel.Funny how everyone is always beating on the subsided corn industry, while the fuel industry is recieving even more money...
The best thing about ethanol (e85) is if you have a forced induction engine, you can upgrade u'r injectors, increase the boost, and advance the timing way past the point where 93 will pre-ignite. 100 octane for 1.30 a gallon. If u'r into that kinda thing.The worst problem with ethanol for fuel is that it takes more energy from oil than it returns, so it is just a waste of fuel.
I recently bought a shiny leaf blower. Put a carb kit in it ran fine for 10 seconds then started running rough. I had ordered some cosmetic parts for it and called my dealer to cancel. Tried again about 20 mins later and the thing ran perfect. Called back to uncancel order and the guy told me the following. When it is hot and humid out the ethanol evaporates and leaves a jelly like substance in the carb. Any truth to this? He said use Stabil, does that stuff actually work?
The best thing about ethanol (e85) is if you have a forced induction engine, you can upgrade u'r injectors, increase the boost, and advance the timing way past the point where 93 will pre-ignite. 100 octane for 1.30 a gallon. If u'r into that kinda thing.
And yet I had a saw that has been sitting for months with E10 in it, and yesterday I ran it and it was misbehaving - I pulled the carb apart and it is spotless inside. Fuel lines are great too. I have not finished diagnosing it, but believe the problem is the ignition.e10 is wonderful! it's made me good money for the last ten years. i've got a pair of stihl ms250's in the shop as i write. both needed new carbs. same old story, if you use your saw every day, it doesn't matter. if you use you saws for cutting firewood in the fall and they spend the rest of the year on the shelf, you will likely see damage to fuel lines, primer bulbs and some carbs. often rebuilding carbs, especially new ones, doesn't help. i just did a poulan 2200. the fuel line had white residue inside and had become brittle and broke. guys who claim e10 is harmless probably never ran real gas and think that lining up down at the stihl dealer every spring is just part of the routine.
And yet I had a saw that has been sitting for months with E10 in it, and yesterday I ran it and it was misbehaving - I pulled the carb apart and it is spotless inside. Fuel lines are great too. I have not finished diagnosing it, but believe the problem is the ignition.
I'd bet a good beer that white deposit is from incorrect plastic fuel containers, as I've seen it before. It's really hard to get off.
We'll see - I need to go start the thing but it's so damn hot and humid out it's hard to get motivated. Carbs are not a mystery to me - if it's bad I'll fix it, as this particular WT-750 is not common. I've got a couple of spares but don't want to use them.yes, it could be ignition problems but my money would be on the carb. try swapping it with a known good carb.
We'll see - I need to go start the thing but it's so damn hot and humid out it's hard to get motivated. Carbs are not a mystery to me - if it's bad I'll fix it, as this particular WT-750 is not common. I've got a couple of spares but don't want to use them.
I clamped the fuel line in the tank and used the purge bulb to test the lines - it held a vacuum and did not expand until I opened the fuel line again, so nothing is leaking in the fuel system.
Other than the check valve there isn't much that E10 can do to it, as the diaphragms are OK and there are no deposits or corrosion of any kind.
EDIT: It has a major air leak, I'll have to find it. It likely has nothing to do with the fuel system.
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