Nice clear video. Nice clean shop.
That's pretty much how I do it, although, I had some trouble at first overheating the depth gauges (see first link below). What I learned:
- the depth gauges have less metal than the main body of the cutters - while they are easier to grind, they are also easier to overheat. So stick with the light taps;
- dress the grinding wheel frequently, just as when grinding the cutters;
- low kickback bumpers, especially the older, tie strap bumpers, make things harder. The tie strap bumpers have more metal than the depth gauge, so again, light taps are required. The newer, drive link bumper style reduced kickback chain is not as bad;
- doing the Left depth gauges separately from the Right depth gauges is important - even if you think that the wheel is centered, the depth gauge heights will be different, because they are not centered on the chain. the Left side may 'chatter' a bit more.
- I grind the depth gauges uniformly flat, then round them over separately. It requires an extra step and takes longer. Some guys try to dress a concave profile in the wheel to do this, but again, it does not work as well with low-kickback chain. Worth trying otherwise.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/
Philbert