Husqavarna Guy
ArboristSite Operative
When a saw dies at idle after being under a load does that mean it needs more fuel or less on the low side?
It may be the H jet set too rich, causing the saw to load up in the cut and die off throttle. Is it 4 stroking in the cut?
your carb is out of sync. your high speed is likely a little rich with a low that is to lean with a throttle plate closed to much. the fix is to turn idle screw up and then kill it back down by opening the low speed. this will add fuel at idle BUT will allow a throttle plate that is more open and able to flow the air needed to burn off excess fuel left over from high speed rather then restricting air flow so much that the engine just dies.
**Thanks for the help. I will try it. It seems to be acting up since I deleted the base gasket.
+1....., -but with altitude, and punctuation. LOL !
**
I stopped doing base gasket "deletes" on work saws. Had a few develop leaks after a couple weeks of brutal torture. It leaked, even when applied as the instructions said.....
That being said, you might vac/pressure test it just to make sure.
-if it's idling weird after using motoseal, I'd suspect that's the source of the problem....
I'm with you on the gasket delete even though I still do it metal to metal.**
I stopped doing base gasket "deletes" on work saws. Had a few develop leaks after a couple weeks of brutal torture. It leaked, even when applied as the instructions said.....
That being said, you might vac/pressure test it just to make sure.
-if it's idling weird after using motoseal, I'd suspect that's the source of the problem....
*I'm with you on the gasket delete even though I still do it metal to metal.
Just as we check fasteners occasionally like muff bolts and dawgs, we should retorque cyl bolts when the saw is still warm.
*
I had been using permatex motoseal, as lots of people endorsed it.
@westcoaster90 says to use 518 loctite, but I found some permatex #51813 anaerobic equivalent locally. View attachment 537742 It says to use #24163 "Surface Prep" adhesive activator to quicken the cure time by 50%.
It can take 300 degrees and fill .015 gaps and is designed for aluminum/ magnesium flanges, and can flex with heat expansion.
Looks like it will do the trick.
Odd that it only cures in the absence of oxygen.
Excellent. Thanks for telling me about the 518 Loctite. I'll probably use the activator, as most of my repairs are put directly into service within a few hours. LOL
There are some saws that really needed a better seal than the factory gasket provided. The Strat charged Husqvarna K760's are notorious for leaking from the transfer ports. Plus the tighter squish without a base gasket usually ends up at .030. which is better, but still forgiving as far as compression ratio's go.
*
Odd that it only cures in the absence of oxygen.
was never a fan of english lol. plus, i was some gooned when i posted that so likely worse then most days.
your doing it wrong! out of many extreme high hour saws i have never had a base leak. only ever used yamabond, hondabond, or loctite 515/518 though. loctite is the best. if you could peal it off in one piece after removing a top end you'd have a perfect thin flexible gasket.
*there is no silicon pud inside the crankcase
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