Saw idle ?

[Husqavarna Guy]

When a saw dies at idle after being under a load does that mean it needs more fuel or less on the low side?

 

[Ozhoo]

This is like one of those trick questions that you read about on the internet.

Both, either or neither... how does it run at idle? What are you carb settings now? You want to tune the low side, set the idle and then tune the high side. Repeat till you're happy.

 

[Full Chisel]

It may be the H jet set too rich, causing the saw to load up in the cut and die off throttle. Is it 4 stroking in the cut?

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

It may be the H jet set too rich, causing the saw to load up in the cut and die off throttle. Is it 4 stroking in the cut?

It was running a little rich so I leaned out the high side a little. It seems if I don't blip the throttle after a long cut and set it down it will eventually die. It starts first pull right after though.

 

[alexcagle]

...it starts first pull without the throttle bumped up, or choke on?

 

[Big_Wood]

your carb is out of sync. your high speed is likely a little rich with a low that is to lean with a throttle plate closed to much. the fix is to turn idle screw up and then kill it back down by opening the low speed. this will add fuel at idle BUT will allow a throttle plate that is more open and able to flow the air needed to burn off excess fuel left over from high speed rather then restricting air flow so much that the engine just dies.

 

[alexcagle]

+1....., -but with altitude, and punctuation. LOL !

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

your carb is out of sync. your high speed is likely a little rich with a low that is to lean with a throttle plate closed to much. the fix is to turn idle screw up and then kill it back down by opening the low speed. this will add fuel at idle BUT will allow a throttle plate that is more open and able to flow the air needed to burn off excess fuel left over from high speed rather then restricting air flow so much that the engine just dies.

Thanks for the help. I will try it. It seems to be acting up since I deleted the base gasket.

 

[alexcagle]

Thanks for the help. I will try it. It seems to be acting up since I deleted the base gasket.

**
I stopped doing base gasket "deletes" on work saws. Had a few develop leaks after a couple weeks of brutal torture. It leaked, even when applied as the instructions said.....
That being said, you might vac/pressure test it just to make sure.
-if it's idling weird after using motoseal, I'd suspect that's the source of the problem....

 

[Big_Wood]

+1....., -but with altitude, and punctuation. LOL !

was never a fan of english lol. plus, i was some gooned when i posted that so likely worse then most days.

**
I stopped doing base gasket "deletes" on work saws. Had a few develop leaks after a couple weeks of brutal torture. It leaked, even when applied as the instructions said.....
That being said, you might vac/pressure test it just to make sure.
-if it's idling weird after using motoseal, I'd suspect that's the source of the problem....

your doing it wrong! out of many extreme high hour saws i have never had a base leak. only ever used yamabond, hondabond, or loctite 515/518 though. loctite is the best. if you could peal it off in one piece after removing a top end you'd have a perfect thin flexible gasket.

 

[alexcagle]

I'll try loctite 515.
Exactly how do You prepare the surface, and how do you apply it? Plus, how long before starting do you wait before statting?

 

[Big_Wood]

i use 518 usually cause it's supposed to be better for aluminum and magnesium. i really don't do much for surface prep. clean off old gasket material, wipe clean with acetone, and smear it on. i do both surfaces and also both surfaces of a homemade card stock gasket if i'm using one. never had an issue. i've started a saw within just an hour but i prefer to leave it 24hrs just because that's what loctite claims is it's cure time. the sealer has an adhesive affect for the parts being sealed but it's light duty. when you remove the cylinder later on get a visual on the product in it's cured state. it's good stuff. it's not like motoseal or hondabond where it's a grosse mess in there. it literally forms a nice paper thin gasket that stays mostly intact when disassembled but stuck to one of the surfaces (usually the case). any of the product that squeezes into the case will not cure and rinse out with the fuel while running.

 

[Gypo Logger]

**
I stopped doing base gasket "deletes" on work saws. Had a few develop leaks after a couple weeks of brutal torture. It leaked, even when applied as the instructions said.....
That being said, you might vac/pressure test it just to make sure.
-if it's idling weird after using motoseal, I'd suspect that's the source of the problem....

I'm with you on the gasket delete even though I still do it metal to metal.
Just as we check fasteners occasionally like muff bolts and dawgs, we should retorque cyl bolts when the saw is still warm.

 

[alexcagle]

I'm with you on the gasket delete even though I still do it metal to metal.
Just as we check fasteners occasionally like muff bolts and dawgs, we should retorque cyl bolts when the saw is still warm.

*
I had been using permatex motoseal, as lots of people endorsed it.
@westcoaster90 says to use 518 loctite, but I found some permatex #51813 anaerobic equivalent locally. It says to use #24163 "Surface Prep" adhesive activator to quicken the cure time by 50%.
It can take 300 degrees and fill .015 gaps and is designed for aluminum/ magnesium flanges, and can flex with heat expansion.
Looks like it will do the trick.
Odd that it only cures in the absence of oxygen.

 

[Big_Wood]

*
I had been using permatex motoseal, as lots of people endorsed it.
@westcoaster90 says to use 518 loctite, but I found some permatex #51813 anaerobic equivalent locally. View attachment 537742 It says to use #24163 "Surface Prep" adhesive activator to quicken the cure time by 50%.
It can take 300 degrees and fill .015 gaps and is designed for aluminum/ magnesium flanges, and can flex with heat expansion.
Looks like it will do the trick.
Odd that it only cures in the absence of oxygen.

just so you know Alex, i don't even use the activator and it works great.

 

[alexcagle]

Excellent. Thanks for telling me about the 518 Loctite. I'll probably use the activator, as most of my repairs are put directly into service within a few hours. LOL
There are some saws that really needed a better seal than the factory gasket provided. The Strat charged Husqvarna K760's are notorious for leaking from the transfer ports. Plus the tighter squish without a base gasket usually ends up at .030. which is better, but still forgiving as far as compression ratio's go.

 

[Big_Wood]

Excellent. Thanks for telling me about the 518 Loctite. I'll probably use the activator, as most of my repairs are put directly into service within a few hours. LOL
There are some saws that really needed a better seal than the factory gasket provided. The Strat charged Husqvarna K760's are notorious for leaking from the transfer ports. Plus the tighter squish without a base gasket usually ends up at .030. which is better, but still forgiving as far as compression ratio's go.

Most newer saws are to tight for a straight delete. The loctite is the best gasket dresser I have used as well. Many saws I just cut a gasket from the appropriate thickness card stock, coat it in 518 and assemble. A lot are hyped on machining but I have ran one **** of a lot of saws ported by guys who machine and they ain't any faster then one with tightened up squish and a port job. When you not counting seconds in a cookie cut at least lol the fastest cookie cut almost never equals the ultimate work saw anyways which is why I think all these timed cuts for work saws is a joke.

 

[earlthegoat2]

*

Odd that it only cures in the absence of oxygen.

I guess it is so it only cures directly where you want the gasket and not where the squeeze out is so you can easily wipe it away. Might be an advantage for the base gasket so there is no silicon pud inside the crankcase but rather stuff that is still liquid and can wash away.

 

[Husqavarna Guy]

was never a fan of english lol. plus, i was some gooned when i posted that so likely worse then most days.



your doing it wrong! out of many extreme high hour saws i have never had a base leak. only ever used yamabond, hondabond, or loctite 515/518 though. loctite is the best. if you could peal it off in one piece after removing a top end you'd have a perfect thin flexible gasket.

I have been thinking about it and wondering if deleting the gasket would change the tune just enough to throw it off? It seems to be running well otherwise.

 

[alexcagle]

there is no silicon pud inside the crankcase

*
Lol "pud"