Since my this years wood is put away, this is next years. My process is to stack it on the back fence for a year and move it next year. It gets full sun (when the corn is gone) and west wind almost constant here. 
Usually I have to pick some up in the spring, so I am going to try stacking double deep and see how that works out. 
Corn is crazy high, over 8'! I'm estimating 1.3 full cord here so far. It's a good feeling being so far ahead.
That's basically what I told him, my saws will come out for about 100 a tree min when there's only a few, but if I have to shoot lines, climb or get on your roof, wellThat tree certainly takes its self preservation seriously! Those are some impressive thorns.
Since he doesn't know what's involved it sounds like your mate assumed it would be easy to remove that tree. And actually, it would be easy. I'd drop it for 20 bucks as long as it doesn't matter where it lands.
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I'll try to explain....There is inefficiency in the corner of the cutter and the squared corner of square chain reduces this.
We built a log lifter for a portable sawmill trailer. Customer works for hydro one forestry. Wonder where he finds his wood? Lol. It works pretty slick. Tines shaped like an S with a small tooth on the bottom end so you can roll a log on and it stays. Hydraulic cylinder lifts the tines and the log rolls right onto the mill bed. Hope you get some time to play with your new toy.
I'm going to call you out on this one Cowboy..... I don't think you really want to reduce the amount of wood you burn
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It's amazing how fast this thread moves along. Miss a day and you get pages behind. Black Locust are prone to a root rot. If you see the big hard mushroom shaped growths on the outside of the tree, there will be rot inside. This is often what brings them down. The root system gets compromised to the point it can't support the weight of the tree, or they snap off through the hollow. Root rots can be fungal or bacterial. Once the wood is split and starts to dry, it can still be stacked on the ground and the rot will not continue. Maybe the pathogens go dormant when they dry out. Maybe jefflovstrom will see this and jump in, he's pretty knowledgeable on pathogens of trees. Anyway, green Black Locust fence posts will last many, many years in the ground and not rot off, Joe.
my dad put a new sheep fence up in 1963. there are still some original locust posts in the ground. the fence was torn down years ago. Joe you think this thread goes fast.which it does. you should try keeping up in the good morning check in thread. i get 3-4 pages behind from morning till evening.
Sorry Stevemy dad put a new sheep fence up in 1963. there are still some original locust posts in the ground. the fence was torn down years ago. Joe you think this thread goes fast.which it does. you should try keeping up in the good morning check in thread. i get 3-4 pages behind from morning till evening.
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.), anything you save will be lost in sharpening. Also I have not met a faller who works in hardwood yet who runs square for production in hardwood( I've asked), but they do in softwood as well as racing. I cut this locust with a semi chisel and still haven't put a file to it after cutting a bit of white and red oak with the same chain, even if it was full chisel I would have had to freshen it up. Semi has it's place as does square, this was a great place for semi. .
There is still a hook but not as deep as round ground.
Pictures or it never happened
.Did you call Steve
.Do they consider it a hook, or just the forward lean of the tooth
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Try using plastic wedges for felling and bucking, and steel for splitting(unless you were trying to cut one out of a chunk that wouldn't split).
I think the margin of error in wood that hard is going to be a lot less than most woods we cut stateside.
