I wondered when someone would mention split cuts, we call it the split level cut or breaker bar cut. I use it all the time to put leaners where I want them to go, was doing it all day yesterday clearing trashy scrub growth of fiddlewood.
This cut page 27, is where the felling bar/breaker bar come into its own, once the first half of the backcut is done, put the bar in it, then finish the second angled cut and lever the tree over. Sometimes you can see the tree sit back, but all is well, no drama as you already have your aid tool in place.
You have to be careful though and assess the weight, size and lean and wind, to determine what level of assistance you need, just the bar, a rope and the bar, a rope and high lift wedge or a winch and wedges. Sense and sensibility are essential!
I looked at your pdf booklet and on page 27 it has a picture of it. The only difference I was taught is the second angled part of the backcut should end up being the same height on the outside edge as the first cut, and should slightly 'underlap' the first cut.
The biggest problem with this cut is not matching or overlapping the cuts inside the tree next to the back of the hinge. If you leave a 'triangle' of uncut wood in that area it is an absolute bugger to get the tree over and then the drama starts...
:greenchainsaw:
Happy Easter everyone.
yep, split level technique would quite probably have been a winner here!
take out your sink (notch) as normal, 45 degrees on normal terrain etc and 20-25% of the tree depth-wise as a pretty reliable guide
make your back cut above the level of the bottom of the sink but not more than an inch higher, but dont cut it full width of the tree, go 2/3 across moving your bar forwards toward the sink leaving at least 10% by diameter for the hinge, the skill here is to keep your bar and saw perfectly level, and move through the wood straight keeping the bar parallel to the hinge and sink at all times.
as soon as the first part of the back cut is completed, get your felling lever or wedge in place. I find a lever most effective a lot of the time. the tree is of course still held in place by the hinge and the 1/3 of wood still left
the second cut is made from the other side of the tree and keeping the bar parallel and flat front to back, tilt the tip of the bar downwards so as to undercut the first cut containing the bar (N.B NO STEEL TOOLS EVER TO BE IN THE SAME CUT AS THE SAW).
if the tree is leaning back, the weight will go onto the bar or wedge but since it is well in the cut the tree should not really 'move' too much
again, if the saw has been kept straight and level, and parallel to the hinge (good stance and moving your whole body is key whilst knowing where the nose is) then a good heave on the bar will send the tree where you want it.
im personally of the opinion that a parallel hinge with even thickness throughout is more important than any rope in the accurate direction of tree felling