New Aftermarket Jugs

[NBailey]

Gregg and I finally made it back from our overseas factory trip and checked up on the new teleology that the piston and cylinder manufacturers are offering. Here is what we will be testing in the next few months:

Pistons: We will be testing a new line of Moly coated pistons with lightweight pins (like the new Stihl models). Just the skirts will be coated.

Rings: We will be testing moly coated ductile iron rings (Our ring fellow is from the Nippon factory). The technology has been around for 40 years (also called nodular or spherical graphite iron), but it hasn't been applied much to 2-stroke engines. These rings will not break during installations and with the moly coating they are more wear resistant and scuff resistant that standard cast rings.

Cylinders: We will be testing a batch of cylinders coated with Nikasil instead of Chrome. We are told the coating should last 20-30% longer, but we want to be sure the added cost is worth it. We are also implementing a much more stringent 3rd party testing program to ensure lemons don't make it on the boat.

051-090 Parts: One of our parts manufacturers makes every part (aftermarket of course) for the 051 and he is looking into the 66mm 090 piston and cylinder. Almost all parts are interchangeable, and we should have a complete list by late this summer.

I will try to post some video later on the machines that make the cylinder parts.

 

[Jacob J.]

Nik- That sounds great. I appreciate and I know a lot of people in this community appreciate the time, labor, and expense you and your folks are investing in developing all these products. Thanks again!

 

[MS-310]

you got one for an 088?.

 

[NBailey]

Quick correction, I meant to say 070 - 090 for the parts, not 051. The 070 is very popular in the Jungles (Nigeria, Indonesia and Brazil).

 

[NBailey]

you got one for an 088?.

Nothing yet. The 084/088 is a very specialized saw, and not many have been sold over the years as compared to other model chainsaws. Again, every model is a bit of a gamble to develop, so we shoot for the best movers. Even the 066 has turned out to be tough to develop a big bore kit for. It may only be available for those who want to modify their crankcase, or we may sell it complete with a modified crancase and crankshaft, which would add a ton of labor to change out. Unfortunately, the 066/660 crankcase OEM moulds are not as precise as one would think, and it is causing problems with oversized cylinders, in which some will work and others will not.

 

[Jacob J.]

More of the Stihl saws seem to have differences in the cases among the same model. I've found squish clearances varied up to .035" in 066s and 046s, whereas Husky seems to have more accuracy in manufacturing cases. Nik, have you thought about big bore kits for some of the smaller saws, like the 357 and 346, Stihl 026 and 361?

 

[sILlogger]

Nothing yet. The 084/088 is a very specialized saw, and not many have been sold over the years as compared to other model chainsaws. Again, every model is a bit of a gamble to develop, so we shoot for the best movers. Even the 066 has turned out to be tough to develop a big bore kit for. It may only be available for those who want to modify their crankcase, or we may sell it complete with a modified crancase and crankshaft, which would add a ton of labor to change out. Unfortunately, the 066/660 crankcase OEM moulds are not as precise as one would think, and it is causing problems with oversized cylinders, in which some will work and others will not.

the first thing i have to say is thank you for everything that you and your company due. i order quite a few of things from you guys. the only thing that i could ask for is more stihl parts--but hey beggars can't be choosers!!! so what is the story behind the 066BB, been considering one. thanks

 

[litefoot]

"New after-market jugs". They've revived many a chainsaw and the careers of not a few Hollywood women. (That one was just too easy).

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Nothing yet. The 084/088 is a very specialized saw, and not many have been sold over the years as compared to other model chainsaws. Again, every model is a bit of a gamble to develop, so we shoot for the best movers. Even the 066 has turned out to be tough to develop a big bore kit for. It may only be available for those who want to modify their crankcase, or we may sell it complete with a modified crancase and crankshaft, which would add a ton of labor to change out. Unfortunately, the 066/660 crankcase OEM moulds are not as precise as one would think, and it is causing problems with oversized cylinders, in which some will work and others will not.

If you do a BB 084, I'm on the list to buy one (as long as it doesn't cost a fortune).

 

[thomas72]

It is a shame you can not get any McCulloch SP125C cylinders and pistons.

 

[NBailey]

More of the Stihl saws seem to have differences in the cases among the same model. I've found squish clearances varied up to .035" in 066s and 046s, whereas Husky seems to have more accuracy in manufacturing cases. Nik, have you thought about big bore kits for some of the smaller saws, like the 357 and 346, Stihl 026 and 361?

We are waiting on an 026 sample right now. We should know about the crankcase issues very soon. If there are no problems, we will get a test batch in soon. GrandeDog is working on this one personally, so I am a bit out of the loop on that model. The next model we will start to entertain should be the 036/360.

 

[NBailey]

the first thing i have to say is thank you for everything that you and your company due. i order quite a few of things from you guys. the only thing that i could ask for is more stihl parts--but hey beggars can't be choosers!!! so what is the story behind the 066BB, been considering one. thanks

We will probably offer the 066 Big Bore to those willing to modify their crankcase only. Talk to Ed or Dean about what is involved. This means the most advanced saw builders, as you can create more problems than benefits. We will offer the standard size kit also (CK 066), so folks can afford to rebuild a fried saw.

 

[timberwolf]

Sounds like your looking at some good stuff!

The modification required to make the 066 BB fit are not dificult at all, but do take some care to ensure there is enough clearance created. Also care must be taken not to get junk down in the lower end when making the clearance in the base bigger. I may have some pics of what needs to be done.

I think it would be great to sell the 066bb jugs even if it does require a bit of fitting, anyone skilled enough to pull the saw apart and replace the piston and cylinder should be able to work a dremel and wash the base out when they are done.

 

[Gatsby174]

Hmmm, I don't think I'd be to keen to run a dremel for the type of work needed to modify the jug mount. That type of precision is best left for a mill. Just my .02
JC

 

[Jacob J.]

Nik- In addition to the replacement piston and replacement cylinder and piston kits, you may consider aftermarket mufflers for a number of models including: 066/660 (an aftermarket muffler WITHOUT the heat box and a reinforced mounting area), 026/260 muffler with a larger exhaust outlet, 044/440 muffler with the same, and a Husky 395 muffler also with a larger outlet.

 

[timberwolf]

You dont need to cut the mounting surfaces, just open up the hole a little bit, to allow the piston to slip down without contacting the base.

It could be done on a mill, but for the time it would take just to set up one , 3 or 4 could be done with a dremel. Might add 15-20 min to the whole job including time to clean up any little chips.

 

[sILlogger]

You dont need to cut the mounting surfaces, just open up the hole a little bit, to allow the piston to slip down without contacting the base.

It could be done on a mill, but for the time it would take just to set up one , 3 or 4 could be done with a dremel. Might add 15-20 min to the whole job including time to clean up any little chips.

how much metal needs to be removed? just a thought, thanks

 

[timberwolf]

1mm

The piston is +2mm, 1mm bigger on each side, the stock piston fit, so removing 1mm should give the same clearance.

I found there were 4 pinch points that needed a bit of grinding, the rest of the way around fit fine.

 

[stihltech]

dremel

Forget the mill, we are only talking clearance here.
Could Bailey's come up wit a guide and template to help out?
My biggest concern is filings in bearings, which can be avoided, if you are careful.

 

[timberwolf]

Here is a phot of where a little metal had to be removed, realy not a big deal to do, just very importaint that this clearance is checked.

A couple things to help with the filings, like stihltech posted, stuff the base with some paper towel, also wash the base out first with straight gas and blow it dry so the oil is removed, that way any thing that does fall in tends not to stick. use a vaccume cleaner to pull the chips away as you cut them.

Use only a carbide bit so there is no pieces of grind stone or diamond coming off the bit. When all done blow it out again and wash it out with mixed gas.