There was a lot of smack talking. That was prior to the gtg where the Leveraxe threw the split into CTY's shin
Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread
- Thread starter spike60
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Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Got a link to that?
Sent you a pm on the outfit I have no idea on posting a link no computers or school bus when I was a kid. I think I found the last new 124 in the US of A in Tenn.They gave me a discount plus free shipping I paid with paypal on the checkout. The place in spain also takes paypal.
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
I did get that, thanks. Was more interested in the vendor. I looked through their inventory, but couldn't find it; however they have some other interesting offerings.
I have seen those around from time to time before they closed the doors. I already have a good axe in that length/weight - but it sure looks nice - enjoy!
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/christmas-giving-2017.315876/
Just a heads up if you have any splitting/chopping tools that may have fallen out of your favorites list, perhaps someone else may want them for the cost of shipping...
Just a heads up if you have any splitting/chopping tools that may have fallen out of your favorites list, perhaps someone else may want them for the cost of shipping...
flatbroke
ArboristSite Operative
Id like to buy a tool to split 2 foot diameter and bigger rounds (green Oak) in to smaller manageable pieces. I have a craftsman maul now and the thing just bounces out. Ive tried using a pointed wedge and that thing bounces. I would prefer to not noodle the damn rounds as it takes a bunch of time, fuel. I am corn fuzed as to getting a maul or a fiskars 27? I had a 27, 25, and 14 inch hatchet (kindling ) loaded in my online Baileys cart but stopped to ask you folks. am I barking on track or chasing trash?
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Ever tried splitting when it's below freezing? I don't have as much experience as a lot of others on here, but I do find that some oak around my way splits easier when it's dried for a few months, especially if any remaining moisture has a chance to freeze inside the fibers. Northern Red Oak and Black Oak are good candidates around here, White Oak species seems to be a bit more difficult. I've heard before that splitting oak is easiest when green, but I don't know, sure doesn't seem that way... perhaps I am doing it wrong.
I also split rounds that big by hand. Occasionally, I'll have to noodle a piece here or there if it's particularly ornery, but if it's mostly straight grained and wide, a nice brisk, chilly morning with a 4+ pound splitter always seems to help them pop open. I use 4.5 lb splitters for this (all of my heavy axes are about that weight), so either the X27 or X25 would be more than enough for what you're trying to do.
IMHO, I believe that splitting wood effectively has more to do with technique, physics, and environmental conditions.
I also split rounds that big by hand. Occasionally, I'll have to noodle a piece here or there if it's particularly ornery, but if it's mostly straight grained and wide, a nice brisk, chilly morning with a 4+ pound splitter always seems to help them pop open. I use 4.5 lb splitters for this (all of my heavy axes are about that weight), so either the X27 or X25 would be more than enough for what you're trying to do.
IMHO, I believe that splitting wood effectively has more to do with technique, physics, and environmental conditions.
I ground sharper edges on my wedges to help them penetrate without bouncing out. I would use 2 or 3 on a large diameter round.
Another approach is to split pieces off the edges and work your way in, rather than splitting down the middle.
+1
Philbert
+2
I typically use my wedge for larger rounds but I don't split green stuff because I have no reason to. I have a beater axe that I use when the wedge keeps popping. The axe usually sticks in the wood then hit it with the sledge a few times and now you have a starting point for the wedge. Dry wood gets all those cracks in it and is usually easy to split with a wedge.
flatbroke
ArboristSite Operative
I don't usually split the rounds either but I can't lift the rounds either. Trying to speed up the process.
Up to 2' is ok, depends on the wood though. Often splitting green is best but if it's troublesome, set it aside and try as it starts to dry and crack. If the X27 won't get it, try turning the round over, often the bottom of the tree is the best side to strike. Put knots at through bottom and strike the furthest side. If the X27 still fails, 8lb maul gets a lot. Personally I hate wedges but they are appropriate for big big rounds, 3'+.
Rather then noodling all the way try noodling a 1/2" deep slot across the upper surface,a place to set and start the wedge.Keeps the wedge from falling over when your maul swing is halfway down.
flatbroke
ArboristSite Operative
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