Why can't I sharpen my chain!?

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Its not the Russians..

i blame the EU,
(& the rakers,as all the others have said,if they are not filed down in relation to the cutters no matter how sharp they are the rakers will hold them above the cut and you will actually be trying to cut the wood with them instead of the cutters.
 
That might explain why it quit cutting after being sharpened (somewhat). Some chains cut a narrower swath as the cutter is shortened. The cutter may be just to the point that the bar is binding in the cut if using an NK chain on a standard bar.
That seems to be a line of logic out there. I really only have found it true for the NK chain in the 0.043 gauge, they cut a much narrower kerf. The chain in question has worked for me on hard nose bars intended for full size 3/8 chain even with the cutters filed back more than pictured. The Oregon replaceable tip bars though are even thicker than the one I mention above. The hard nose bar I mention is thicker than laminated .325 bars I have.
 
Same ****, different cow. Trying to finish up a wood boiler install so I can get cutting and splitting my wood! You?
Leveling out a spot in the back yard right now for a wood shed ,using a lot of my milled wood for the building , should hold 2 years worth of wood.i took a round file to my chain the other day because could not find a square chain file ,it cut but was grabby being round filed.
 
Leveling out a spot in the back yard right now for a wood shed ,using a lot of my milled wood for the building , should hold 2 years worth of wood.i took a round file to my chain the other day because could not find a square chain file ,it cut but was grabby being round filed.
I'm about to take some good sized ash trees down. I'm going to be a milling fool because they have nice logs in them and I could use the lumber. I'm going to get a boat winch and wire rope for to pull the mill through. I'll be trying to square file my milling chains (with a file a joint) so hopefully it goes well.
 
Ok, to the op I haven't read the last 2 pages but from the pics you posted.
A) your file is sitting to low in the gullet andbullet and not hitting the top plate barely at all. B) your depth gauges are to tall and need to be brought down lower.

Make sure tour using the correct file size for your chain pitch. Then pick up a husqvarna roller filing guide for that chain pitch. Different chain pitch means different color file guide. Ask the folks at the saw shop for the correct size files and roller guide. When used properly you get a dang near perfect cutter profile and sharpening as it holds the file at the right depth and angle. Then once all your cutters are properly sharpened go after the depth gauges and bring them down to .25 (Oregon makes a good depth gauge guide thing that just rests on top of the cutter. I prefer it over the one that's built in to the roller guide.

Based on ylthe codition of your cutters currently you are gonna be spending some quality time filing to get them back up to a good profile so get comfy and pour a coffee or three.
Once you pick up a roller guide and fix your chain up prope,use it EVERY time you sharpen as well as a .25 depdth guage guide.
 
Hey Franny, I don't have near the experience that many of you have, so thanks for correcting me. The gum on the chain kind of suggests he was cutting a green, sappy softwood. I noticed some bar drag while cutting up some very green pine blow-downs last fall with an Oregon nk bar and 20nk. I even thought that using full .325 on the nk bar might work better for that situation.
 
Ok ,i pulled a file jig out of the wrapper for a demo for the op ,this one is made by oregon ,they should be 10 bucks or less ,it rests on the cutter and the raker to hold the file for a good all purpose sharpen that is not too aggressive on the angles ,similar to stock KIMG3373_01.JPG
Here is what the top of the cutter looks like after i swiped the cutter a few times ,notice the corner is real pointed ,not bent over like it hit something
KIMG3375.JPG
Here are the side angles it produces ,notice the laser etched mark stihl puts on the cutter ,the side profile lines up pretty close .
KIMG3376.JPG KIMG3377.JPG
Here is what happens if hold the file too low ,it makes more hook in the side ,it cuts like this ,but ends up very grabby and takes a saw with a lot of power to make it work right and a light hand ,the more hook will also dull quicker ,notice the laser etch is not curved like this .KIMG3379.JPG
the main goal is to file away till you get the point back in the outer corner ,if hit a nail or the dirt or a rock ,it may require a lot of the cutter to be filed back ,sometimes it takes 1/3 of the cutter away to get to a good corner again which looks like that chain will need ,may be good to find someone with a grinder to save that chain ,going to be a while with a file to get it serviceable again .
 
I'm about to take some good sized ash trees down. I'm going to be a milling fool because they have nice logs in them and I could use the lumber. I'm going to get a boat winch and wire rope for to pull the mill through. I'll be trying to square file my milling chains (with a file a joint) so hopefully it goes well.
If need help with the square chain let me know .
 
Here is what the top of the cutter looks like after i swiped the cutter a few times ,notice the corner is real pointed ,not bent over like it hit something
Here are the side angles it produces ,notice the laser etched mark stihl puts on the cutter ,the side profile lines up pretty close . . . .
the main goal is to file away till you get the point back in the outer corner . . .

Nice, clear photos showing the clean edges on the top and side of each cutter.

Philbert
 
Ok ,i pulled a file jig out of the wrapper for a demo for the op ,this one is made by oregon ,they should be 10 bucks or less ,it rests on the cutter and the raker to hold the file for a good all purpose sharpen that is not too aggressive on the angles ,similar to stock View attachment 640788
Here is what the top of the cutter looks like after i swiped the cutter a few times ,notice the corner is real pointed ,not bent over like it hit something
View attachment 640789
Here are the side angles it produces ,notice the laser etched mark stihl puts on the cutter ,the side profile lines up pretty close .
View attachment 640790 View attachment 640791
Here is what happens if hold the file too low ,it makes more hook in the side ,it cuts like this ,but ends up very grabby and takes a saw with a lot of power to make it work right and a light hand ,the more hook will also dull quicker ,notice the laser etch is not curved like this .View attachment 640792
the main goal is to file away till you get the point back in the outer corner ,if hit a nail or the dirt or a rock ,it may require a lot of the cutter to be filed back ,sometimes it takes 1/3 of the cutter away to get to a good corner again which looks like that chain will need ,may be good to find someone with a grinder to save that chain ,going to be a while with a file to get it serviceable again .
Chain pics look really sharp. I make a bit less hook and I clean out the gullet a bit more to be symmetrical from the bottom of the cutter to the back of the raker like a sled. More room for the chip.
 
Chain pics look really sharp. I make a bit less hook and I clean out the gullet a bit more to be symmetrical from the bottom of the cutter to the back of the raker like a sled. More room for the chip.
I do the gullets about every 3rd sharpen on work chain ,left this one in so can see where the file should be riding during a sharpen for teaching,
How have you been John,cabin getting close to move in yet ?
 
Chain pics look really sharp. I make a bit less hook and I clean out the gullet a bit more to be symmetrical from the bottom of the cutter to the back of the raker like a sled. More room for the chip.

Man I am way to lazy to go that far on my chains if the angle of the dangle is where its supposed to be I can let a little of the gullet be funky....but then I said I am way to lazy.....its the next symptom of semi retirement kicking in ;)
 
Man I am way to lazy to go that far on my chains if the angle of the dangle is where its supposed to be I can let a little of the gullet be funky....but then I said I am way to lazy.....its the next symptom of semi retirement kicking in ;)
Don’t kid yourself about the reason being semi retired. Now that I’m retired everything has to be perfect. :surprised3:
 
Ken if you wanted your chain could rock with or with out retirement. Your stoves took effort. What about the rakers seem very high. With a little practice chips will be flying just right. Thanks

Bro those were not my chains :) but I will admit i hate sharpening chains I can do a decent job with a hand file its just tedious and time consuming (especially if I have any beer during the process)...so i bought one of those granberg 12 volt units about 2 years ago...perfect every time but just time consuming...then after ready several of Philberts chain challenges I was like...gee whiz....I can afford one of those high speed low drag grinders.... so i bought one..... I found except heavily rocked i can sharpen a chain very quickly, or take my time and make it perfect....but then it gets into my beer time again...Oh, and after buying it i found out something elses that was rather curious....that every one should know. when buying new tools that you think your better half has no clue about in so far as need vs cost etc. this will invariably lead you to sleeping on the couch like i am for the time being...
 

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