Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I never plow. I dont have a plow. I have a shovel. Used it 3 times this year. Deepest snow I shovelled was about 3 inches.
My plow is a little slow, but it gets the job done.
 

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No pictures but I took a few trees down in town today, had to rent a lift, trimmed a few up close to houses as well. One nice american elm that lost it's bark a couple years ago, some of it's iffy but I still got a solid cord and a half I think. Cut down a small ash tree, and have one more to cut tomorrow.

We just got a few inches of snow on Monday, and then it dropped down to 8 degrees F over night so the ground was hard enough to work on, looks like more on Sunday but I rented the lift for a whole week so I'll be using it unless it's straight nasty out.



I think this is probably the third time you've told me this, I usually look at the files to do so, then say no, you'll **** it up. I keep thinking I'll order a couple loops to see if I can do it by hand. Then again, I could find someone with a square grinder and send all my chisel chains to them, then I should still have two loops of semi for each bar size. I bet the 661 would love a 28" loop of square chisel and an 8 tooth sprocket.
I watched Mike touch up a chain at the PA GTG. I'd like to try it. Maybe get a 16" bar for the Del saw and do some experimenting for the races next time.
 
just saw this on facebook market place. called the log aug. Car powered log splitter. looks like a pretty dangerous contraption. :surprised3:
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just saw this on facebook market place. called the log aug. Car powered log splitter. looks like a pretty dangerous contraption.
There are some YouTube videos of it; a version that attaches to a skid steer, etc. This version poses special hazards with the parked, running car, in gear, aside from the screw hazards.

Philbert
 
I've seen car powered screw splitters on YouTube, although think it wasn't that exact model. You need long lengths for it to work so for many people it would be split then buck, which would be a pain.
One of the car units was called a stickler, I think. You had to take the wheel off and it bolted to the lugs. You also had to jack one wheel up off the ground, so it was a bit wobbly, and don't try it with a car with "Posi Track". One of those inventions that looks really cool to Harry Homeowner, but is worthless in any kind of production sense. As Neil noted it works best with longer pieces so they lock into the ground when they start spinning. If it's not long enough when the screw grabs it, it will kick a big divot out of the ground and start spinning like Thor's Hammer. The only way to stop it is jump in the car and put the breaks on, or turn the engine off. I don't know how hard they are to unscrew if it doesn't split, like a nasty piece of Elm, Joe.
 
That sounds like the one I've seen Joe.

If you happen to have an old wreck that is off road and rusting away but engine and transmission still works then welding/bolting something up to make it safer and using it permanently set to split maybe. The video is saw made it look slow and controlled... But I still agree with joe that if there's a problem you're in Panic catch up mode. I shall stick to my fiskars, and noodling the uglies.
 
Posi track? Is that a lsd? I suspect the diff would not like it if it's a funky electronic controlled haldex type unit, but your racing clutch plate unit, just jack both drive wheels up. If it's a geared Torsen type though....err....stop one wheel and the other goes backwards at double speed iirc.... So you'd need to use reverse gear for the screw to work.
Mike, what's in the Mustang?
 
Yep, a type of LSD. GM called theirs Positraction, Chrysler called their Sure Grip. Both wheels spin but there can still be some slippage to allow going around corners. My old Front Engine Dragster ran 513 gears in a Spool. The Spool locks both wheels so the torque is distributed evenly with no slippage. The dragster with the big slicks in the rear and skinny motorcycle tires on the front could be a bit touchy trying to make turns. The minor turns going straight down the track were no problem. Trying to turn around to come back down the return lane was a different story. With the spool not letting either tire turn faster, sometimes it would just keep pushing the front tires straight, even when they were turned. That was the fastest car I ever owned, ran the 1/4 mile in 9.6 seconds at 168 MPH, best run.
 
Anybody had experience of Hawthorn? I can't find Density figure although the random ' what firewood is good' tables over the web (which never agree so I usually ignore) all seem to think it's very good. I am told there's some on the pile. The thorns would be already dealt with.
hawthorn or what we call blackthorn is like coal when it's left to dry but needs a year to season, hard to burn anything else when its dry
 
One of the car units was called a stickler, I think. You had to take the wheel off and it bolted to the lugs. You also had to jack one wheel up off the ground, so it was a bit wobbly, and don't try it with a car with "Posi Track". One of those inventions that looks really cool to Harry Homeowner, but is worthless in any kind of production sense. As Neil noted it works best with longer pieces so they lock into the ground when they start spinning. If it's not long enough when the screw grabs it, it will kick a big divot out of the ground and start spinning like Thor's Hammer. The only way to stop it is jump in the car and put the breaks on, or turn the engine off. I don't know how hard they are to unscrew if it doesn't split, like a nasty piece of Elm, Joe.
same page as the other one Joe. this guy has the set up for posi track.:laughing: only $157 for the pair.
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I usually look at the files to do so, then say no, you'll **** it up.

Not that hard, give it a try, worst that can happen is you go back to round.

With square, go from the outside in, not the inside out. Only use on Full Chisel Chain. Make sure the corner of the file is in the corner of the tooth, and swept back 45 degrees, 45 degrees down, and tilted at 45 degrees. (The little flat side will contact the strap on the opposite side to help you get the angles right).

You can also cheat and use a square to check your 45s before you start.

Then, just learn to stroke straight (even if you have to short stroke it).

Don't need to convert it all at once, just give each tooth 3-4 strokes and get the corner, and you will see it work. Each time you do it, more of the tooth will get converted, but the corner is always the most important part.
 

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