Yes I have a lathe, but it takes me several hours to set up the cut well. I get my handy dandy file out and just take off about .020 or .030. That way I can use the OEM gasket. My go to is Yamabond. It seems proper to make some measurements first so the the mod is square and reasonably accurate. Thanks
I got a project saw
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What the fancy test determined is what is called vapor lock. Someone paying attention would determine this when opening the fuel cap. Just saying. The sky is the limit on just about anything. I am a guy with basic tools helping out a friend. I appreciate helpful advice. The rest, not so much...
You really have no clue what the vac pressure test is for, and it has nothing to do with vapor loc. If your seals or case has leaks, you will very quickly toast your pretty new piston and cylinder due to lean seizing, but what do I know? Carry on and who knows, maybe you’ll get lucky, probably not, but maybe! The guys on these posts are offering up good info if you’re willing to read and listen, we’re not criticizing just to try and act smart, it’s wise to do the research to avoid costly mistakes. On that note, I out.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Indeed.Making Salami.
If someone posted up about making some, but wanted a sodium free product so they skipped the salt. Or wanted it without the "nasty nitrates", or hung it in their lighted, 70° kitchen, would you pull from your experience and provide advice? If so, would that be considered being critical?
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Don't do it. Everything you described sounds dangerous. There are kits that do the job in the refridgerator, and I believe take less salt. Look at Umai. It might be what you are looking for.
https://www.drybagsteak.com/shop-umai-salumi-kits.php
https://www.drybagsteak.com/shop-umai-salumi-kits.php
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Uhhh... It was a hypothetical. I would NEVER do any of those things. I was just likening the advice I thought you'd (did) give in that situation to the help people attempted to give you in this thread, which you called "criticism". We all want good outcomes for each other brother!
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Okay. And actually, I do listen to advice, consider it, and sometimes the answer is No.
When the advice becomes a flash point to be critical, and the "advice" is repeated as a do or else, and you have been warned, I push back. Sorry if that upsets you, or anybody else.
When the advice becomes a flash point to be critical, and the "advice" is repeated as a do or else, and you have been warned, I push back. Sorry if that upsets you, or anybody else.
Subbed, Way to go there in making friends, I can't wait what the next advice will be telling you what you can do with that saw.
but yer slackin..you didn't threaten to punch em in the nose like you did me.
but yer slackin..you didn't threaten to punch em in the nose like you did me.- Joined
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No Squish. Without the base gasket, using solder wire of 0.032 at front, back and on either side, the solder makes no contact at all.
Just put it together, and see what the results are?
Just put it together, and see what the results are?
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Do you have a choice at this point?
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Very interesting. I put the old piston and cylinder back and did the squish test again with the 0.032 solder, and nothing. I found some solder twice as thick, and I get a squish of 0.039, no base gasket and the top of the piston is coated with carbon residue.
Anybody?
Anybody?
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Probably not. And I'm thinking, reassemble with no base gasket. Worst case -- more compression and with such a large squish there should be no fear of collision at Top-Dead-Center when the saw is at full operating temperature.
Huskitoter
ArboristSite Operative
May be too late, but....
A high squish like that on the oem cyl would lead me to guess the bearing cup needs to be faced. One of the YouTube vids (afleetcommand?) shows where the corners on a cup where higher than between the corners. His simple solution was to face it on a sheet of sandpaper placed on a level table top.
A high squish like that on the oem cyl would lead me to guess the bearing cup needs to be faced. One of the YouTube vids (afleetcommand?) shows where the corners on a cup where higher than between the corners. His simple solution was to face it on a sheet of sandpaper placed on a level table top.
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It is going together now. This saw is a hybrid(?) clamshell, so I did not get at the bearings or it seals. This is not my saw, and my labor is free, but not unlimited.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
The high squish is because it's not an OEM cylinder, at least on the new one.
Huskitoter
ArboristSite Operative
Well, something isn't right if he got those numbers on the old cylinder. Aren't all this oem cyl's consistently close to .020 without the BG? Of course, we don't know if the old one is not AM too.
MR, good luck with it. When doing mine, I noticed that it looks much easier and quicker in those vids.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Stock OEM 350s are lower on compression, but I've never measured one. I always assumed the 125psi came from the dished piston.
I can tell you for sure if an NE P&C had been used squish would have wound up right near the magic .020 gasketless. At least every one I've done has.
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Fired right up. 3 pulls and it idles and revs nicely. I only ran it for a few seconds and the expected smokey oil burn off that I liberally applied to all moving surfaces, was evident.
A PITA to put together. So many tight fitting parts. All in all, not a bad bit of work. I'll know more after I burn a tank of gas in it. Maybe tomorrow. Right now I just want to look at it. Owner should be back from a vacation Monday, he will be pleased.
Oh, and I put the base gasket in. Better safe then sorry. If this was my saw and I had a few hundred saws like so many of you -- I'd say, "yeah, lets see the difference".
A PITA to put together. So many tight fitting parts. All in all, not a bad bit of work. I'll know more after I burn a tank of gas in it. Maybe tomorrow. Right now I just want to look at it. Owner should be back from a vacation Monday, he will be pleased.
Oh, and I put the base gasket in. Better safe then sorry. If this was my saw and I had a few hundred saws like so many of you -- I'd say, "yeah, lets see the difference".
I am not very experienced with making mods to chain saw motors. With race motors that is a different story. The motors that I tuned over the years were a matter of evolving with fairly predictable results. It appears that most guys who are raising the compression for their chain saws are aiming to get the squish area between .020'' to .030''. I do not hear anybody say that the larger bore motors need a completely different ratio or is the purpose just to be the ball park with a increased compression ratio? Race motors some times produce much less HP with an increased compression and some times they will destroy themselves with too much compression. With chain saw motors they seem to be much more forgiving and respond well to a little more compression is this true? Thanks
