cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Sand with 300-400 grit until all the carbon and aluminum transfer is gone. Finish with scotch brite pad.What would you do to clean it up?
Sand with 300-400 grit until all the carbon and aluminum transfer is gone. Finish with scotch brite pad.What would you do to clean it up?
I've been thinking more about this lately myself Mike(not the leaking oil in the driveway) and wrestling another FW side small Stihl seal out really brought it to the surface. I think because they're cheap and fairly easy to replace people always recommend them. It makes sense to a degree, cheap insurance. But we'll never hear about another leak found later, straight gas, etc, that turned out to be the cause later.Some of you guys tell every saw builder to put in new seals. I wish I could check your driveways. Probably oil leaking down from leaking seals for months. Your wife's car has a dirty air filter and the oil change is 3,000 miles past due but your saw has new seals!
I read your post. I've read lots of your posts. You parrot other guys "squawk; change the seals, change the seals"If you read my post you would see why I think they need to be replaced!
I read your post. I've read lots of your posts. You parrot other guys "squawk; change the seals, change the seals"
It appears the supply has dried up. I literally purchased 10 of them in the last 2 years for anywhere from $13-20 shipped, no pin and one circlip.The bore is 44.7. What's the source of the $25 OEM pistons. I didn't see them on Ebay?
I do plan to test the bottom end for leaks but this saw sure doesn't look like it's had much use for seals to wear out.
I wonder if the saw was run in an over rev'd condition for an extending time? Like from a very dull chain and/or a overly lean carb adjustment? Most of the dust I see has been pretty fine dust vs chips. Would an extended over rev condition cause so much wear on the piston skirt?
I'm also wondering is there was a manufacturing flaw in the OEM piston. There's absolutely no visual signs of the skirt wear. It looks like it was manufactured that way.
TIA
The bore is 44.7. What's the source of the $25 OEM pistons. I didn't see them on Ebay?
I do plan to test the bottom end for leaks but this saw sure doesn't look like it's had much use for seals to wear out.
I wonder if the saw was run in an over rev'd condition for an extending time? Like from a very dull chain and/or a overly lean carb adjustment? Most of the dust I see has been pretty fine dust vs chips. Would an extended over rev condition cause so much wear on the piston skirt?
I'm also wondering is there was a manufacturing flaw in the OEM piston. There's absolutely no visual signs of the skirt wear. It looks like it was manufactured that way.
TIA
You can check all the rubber besides the seals when you do a P/C job, assuming you have a look at carb/fuel line also. Seals are an unknown unless you vac/pres test. So it seems a decent saw here and with a quality piston it should run nearly new. But the seals are ~25 years old.
A base gasket and ex gasket are going to be ~$6, a gasket set w/seals ~$17. So $11 more, and the saw is clean and apart NOW. Why cheap out?
I wouldn't buy a new piston for this saw, especially if I already had one. If the new AM piston measures okay go ahead and try it. I would change the circlips and the rings though..
I thought the OP already had a new piston for the saw. No, I wouldn't put the old piston in the saw. I've had pretty good luck running aftermarket pistons but maybe that's all it is, luck. I don't run anything super lean however. I would measure the piston first as I stated.You'd put the used one back in with 0.0145" clearance, if you didn't have another?
Maybe?, the new one is from one of those $25 p/c kits? You'd run that?
Seems that saw is in decent shape and deserves a quality piston.
I thought the OP already had a new piston for the saw. No, I wouldn't put the old piston in the saw. I've had pretty good luck running aftermarket pistons but maybe that's all it is, luck. I don't run anything super lean however. I would measure the piston first as I stated.
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