Dennis Cahoon
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you're doubling up wedges try putting a small thin layer of dirt in between both wedges.
wedges
- Thread starter VTclimber
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VTclimber
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for all the good responses. I appreciate it.
sawsong
ArboristSite Member
if you're concerned about the tree sitting back, and depending on size of tree, use a split level back cut. make your first cut from the right hand side of the tree, pushing chain, horizontal, no more than an inch above the bottom of the sink cut, and cut across 2/3 of the tree diameter leaving a decent hinge.
due to the 3rd remaining behind the sink/scarf/face/whatever, the tree cannot sit back. you should also be able to get a bar, lever, wedge, etc in the perfect 6 o clock position in the cut so as to get some pressure on in the right direction.
next, make your final cut, from the left of the tree, making sure not to get in your danger zones, pulling chain, with the nose angled down slightly so that it slightly undercuts the original cut, and takes out the remaining 3rd up to the hinge. reason for the undercut being if you use a felling lever, there is no steel object in the same cut as the saw chain.
since the wedge is already in the first cut, the weight can go onto it, but the tree cannot physically sit back. now wedge or lever it over to your heart's content
due to the 3rd remaining behind the sink/scarf/face/whatever, the tree cannot sit back. you should also be able to get a bar, lever, wedge, etc in the perfect 6 o clock position in the cut so as to get some pressure on in the right direction.
next, make your final cut, from the left of the tree, making sure not to get in your danger zones, pulling chain, with the nose angled down slightly so that it slightly undercuts the original cut, and takes out the remaining 3rd up to the hinge. reason for the undercut being if you use a felling lever, there is no steel object in the same cut as the saw chain.
since the wedge is already in the first cut, the weight can go onto it, but the tree cannot physically sit back. now wedge or lever it over to your heart's content
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
if you're concerned about the tree sitting back, and depending on size of tree, use a split level back cut. make your first cut from the right hand side of the tree, pushing chain, horizontal, no more than an inch above the bottom of the sink cut, and cut across 2/3 of the tree diameter leaving a decent hinge.
due to the 3rd remaining behind the sink/scarf/face/whatever, the tree cannot sit back. you should also be able to get a bar, lever, wedge, etc in the perfect 6 o clock position in the cut so as to get some pressure on in the right direction.
next, make your final cut, from the left of the tree, making sure not to get in your danger zones, pulling chain, with the nose angled down slightly so that it slightly undercuts the original cut, and takes out the remaining 3rd up to the hinge. reason for the undercut being if you use a felling lever, there is no steel object in the same cut as the saw chain.
since the wedge is already in the first cut, the weight can go onto it, but the tree cannot physically sit back. now wedge or lever it over to your heart's content
Why not just put in the backcut first, hell of a lot easier.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
VTclimber, you are right about the force of the wedge being spit out. As you wedge the tree over it sways forward and back. This puts pulses of pressure on the wedge. This is easily seen on the psi gauge of a tree jack. The rhythm of the tree swaying can really work for you when advancing wedges. For some reason, especially on small trees, striking the wedge at the wrong time in this rhythm will couse the wedge to spit out with extreme force. I had one spit out and hit my index finger wrapped around the ax handle hard enough that it tore the skin off the back and you could see the tendon in the back of my finger.
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
Clearance,
Ekka has some video of the split level back cut, it works good if you don’t have enough diameter to get the saw back into the cut without hitting the wedge.
And like Treebogan’s two cut technique the broken wood between the two cuts really locks the wedge in place and seems to give some more lift. It’s like the fibers of the broken wood compress when you hit the wedge and then push up a little once the wedge is set in.
I was falling trees on Friday, it was windy. This 14” DBA red or chestnut oak set back hard. I tried to drive a wedge in at the 4 o’clock position, and on my 2nd or 3rd swing that wedge went flying. Good reason to wear a face screen.
Ekka has some video of the split level back cut, it works good if you don’t have enough diameter to get the saw back into the cut without hitting the wedge.
And like Treebogan’s two cut technique the broken wood between the two cuts really locks the wedge in place and seems to give some more lift. It’s like the fibers of the broken wood compress when you hit the wedge and then push up a little once the wedge is set in.
I was falling trees on Friday, it was windy. This 14” DBA red or chestnut oak set back hard. I tried to drive a wedge in at the 4 o’clock position, and on my 2nd or 3rd swing that wedge went flying. Good reason to wear a face screen.
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have seen this video, I just put in the backcut first, tap in a wedge, put in the undercut and drive the wedge, like I said, a hell of a lot easier.
Heres a stupid one. I was helping one of my team buck a log and we were using wedges to keep from pinching. I tapped the wedge in and backed off, but not off line. He finished the cut, the wedge dropped onto the running chain and hit me in the chin. Maybe those full-face shields aren't too silly after all...
sounds like you could appreciate my little peltor display of product
and my little wedge display
kennertree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like everything else on a husky, it fell off.
tawilson
Addicted to ArboristSite
You're just being hurtful now.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Looks like they were replaced by a distanse plate, without teeth - makes perfect sense to me.......:yoyo: :yoyo:
i try and get my customers NOT TO FORCE A DULL CHAIN TO CUT so i remove the dawgs and put on smooth bumpers,EVERYBODY KNOWS dawgs are for the horizontal position,but are loved in the vertical position.
and besides real woodcutters that know how to file a sawchain don't need dawgs
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
i try and get my customers NOT TO FORCE A DULL CHAIN TO CUT so i remove the dawgs and put on smooth bumpers,EVERYBODY KNOWS dawgs are for the horizontal position,but are loved in the vertical position.
and besides real woodcutters that know how to file a sawchain don't need dawgs
Thats one of the craziest things I have heard here. By far, I turfed the lame dogs that came with my 371 and put on some good ones. Dogs are for use wherever they can help, actually.
thanks troll
oh,while i'm here do you think that new saw you got (339) would cut better with 91 vs chain ?
the old ones i got in stock here have 95vp (very clubby)
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
i try and get my customers NOT TO FORCE A DULL CHAIN TO CUT so i remove the dawgs and put on smooth bumpers,EVERYBODY KNOWS dawgs are for the horizontal position,but are loved in the vertical position.
and besides real woodcutters that know how to file a sawchain don't need dawgs
That there is funny... whatever. Tell that to a PNW faller... You have no clue how dogs work then.
Gary
SawTroll
Information Collector
thanks troll
oh,while i'm here do you think that new saw you got (339) would cut better with 91 vs chain ?
the old ones i got in stock here have 95vp (very clubby)
I hardly think so, as there will be fewer teeth working in the relativly small wood it is meant for.
So far, I think the 95VP is just perfect......
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