ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
I may just order an HO pump or 2, regardless.
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
Just ordered 2 HO pumps, so that I have a backup.
ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
So I finished assembly last night of my saw. I originally thought I was going to be short a single M5 screw for the AV mount on the clutch side. I opened the package for the screws to the top cover and figured out that they put the needed screw in that bag. Since I found where everything was, I actually had every part in my kit and actually had an extra M4 screw. I ran pressure and vac test on the crankcase and it passed. Also did the same on the gas tank and it passed. By the time I finished, it was to late for me to try and fire it. It was also time to help the wife get the kids to bed. I am really looking forward to hearing this beast fire up.
Firewood Bandit
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm intrested in a HO oiler do you have the link handy?
ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
This should be it. This is what I ordered atleast.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-Gear-for-Stihl-066-MS660-Replaces-1122-640-3201/112883422544?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160727114228&meid=85bcd511d68c4f2f8bc895fd9c5cd07a&pid=100290&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=112883422544&itm=112883422544&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
Firewood Bandit
ArboristSite Lurker
Link works thank you sir
ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I haven't tuned it. But I have fired my saw and man does it sound and feel good. We will see how it goes as it breaks in, but I am running it without a decomp right now. It isn't bad to start as is. But like said, it also isn't broke in yet, of which may change things for me. I am in "small engine heaven" today. Got the 660 running and also got my fs85r running. Been fighting it for over a month. Love how it is running too. It was another project I have been working on, along side the 660 build.
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Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
Congrats. It's a good feeling when it fires up for the first time isn't it?
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ssm1699
ArboristSite Operative
It is great. And it did the initial pop on the second pull. Full running on about the 5th. It doesn't have high idle, so I need to take care of that issue. But the carb is set almost perfect, by a tach. Pulled to 12k, with the way the carb is set. I may still open up the jet on the carb. But just purrs at idle and pulls right up with the trigger pull.
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I'm thinking mine took 8-9 pulls to pop. No fast idle here either. I don't remember anyone's working unless they modified it.
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Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
All of the Farmertec kits (7) have been a ‘no fast idle’ for me.
They never get the throttle link right. [emoji849]
They never get the throttle link right. [emoji849]
What is the fix to get it working?
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Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Loose zip tie around the trigger/handle.
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
The control lever sets to deep in the groove so it won’t reach the fast idle notch on the trigger.
On one I cut some leather off a old glove and laid it behind the control lever to shim it outward.
I did a write up on the old 660. It’s hard to find now.
On one I cut some leather off a old glove and laid it behind the control lever to shim it outward.
I did a write up on the old 660. It’s hard to find now.
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I saw your original fix "66", how is it holding up? So the "mo" for the fix is to replace the control shaft and trigger with OEM, or shim the control shaft. I tried to put some of that thick ass black gorrilla tape on the face of the shaft cam, it worked on one and didn't work on the other. I'm pondering a "fully modded" felling 660 with a full wrap and will replace both with OEM on this one. For now, they pop on the second pull cold and start about 3 pulls later, so I don't see a big problem. It would have been a problem a year ago when all the pull cord assemblies were flying apart, but I haven't blown one of those in a while.
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
The high idle still works.
On mine it still wouldn’t work swapping oem parts, I had a oem 660 I was swapping parts with.
I think they molded or cut the slots to deep.
On mine it still wouldn’t work swapping oem parts, I had a oem 660 I was swapping parts with.
I think they molded or cut the slots to deep.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Somewhere along the line I saw a thread where somebody cut a spacer out of HDPE or something to put behind the throttle linkage to get the high idle to work.
It was basically a rectangle of plastic with a half-circle cut out where the shaft of the throttle linkage would bear...Might be worth a search...
It was basically a rectangle of plastic with a half-circle cut out where the shaft of the throttle linkage would bear...Might be worth a search...
TheBigGiantPowerHead
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey all, newb here. Getting ready to start my first FT660 build, and totally geeking out on all the great info here.
I have not came across any info on what effect using a big bore piston and cylinder has on the balance of the engine. Is this something that needs to be addressed?
I have not came across any info on what effect using a big bore piston and cylinder has on the balance of the engine. Is this something that needs to be addressed?
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
The BB cylinders seemed to have some Freeport but vibration hasn’t been a issue.
HLsuppy seemed to add the missing screws, correct brake spring, and brake band with pin pressed in on the old kit I got from them. I did have to add my chain adjuster bushing so it would fit tight.
I did the normal upgrades that I did on the previous 660 kits I built I’m just waiting on a oem rope rotor and dawgs so I’ll use these til they split.
HLsuppy seemed to add the missing screws, correct brake spring, and brake band with pin pressed in on the old kit I got from them. I did have to add my chain adjuster bushing so it would fit tight.
I did the normal upgrades that I did on the previous 660 kits I built I’m just waiting on a oem rope rotor and dawgs so I’ll use these til they split.
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
I'm running two BB jugs on my mill saws. They both have almost an entire 36" chain sharpened through them. Haven't had one single issue with either (besides recoil assemblies blowing up about a year ago). Like stated above, you "need" to use the base gasket to minimize the Freeport. With the gaskets installed, I can just make out the bottom of the skirt at top dead center. As far as the parts that have "issues" and "maybe should" be replaced, that is up to you. As you read through the thread, you will see A LOT OF INFO. There really isn't any "right or wrong", except to say that the decomp needs to be replaced with a plug, OEM or Husky, the chain adjuster "needs" to be shimmed no matter wether you use the kit screw or OEM, I "feel" you NEED OEM bar studs, kit carb either works fine or doesn't tune (replace with Walbro if it is a problem). Other than that, the rest is up to you. I run Caber rings, OEM decomp, OEM chain adjuster shimmed, OEM bar studs, Walbro wj76 carb on one and kit carb on another, basic woods port, 1184 on the sealing surfaces, rip out the seals and install new after the cases are pressed together and have 4 recoil assemblies on hand, but haven't blown one in 8 months and run the HO oil pump on both.
