Husky 36 clutch cover question

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irhunter

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When I mount the bar, and tighten the bar nuts, the aft end of the clutch cover does not contact the case of the saw. This results in the clutch cover feeling kind of wobbly when the chain brake is engaged or disengaged.

I have a clutch cover from both a 36 and 136...they both show the pictured gap. Is this just the way these saws "are," or what?

Thanks,

Roy36.jpg
 
Humm...

Well, I know this is a somewhat cheezy saw...but, the cover flex makes it seem especially cheezy. I have never run the saw...it came to me as a box of mixed 36 and 136 parts.

I have a lower-mileage sprocket that I'll change to, eventually.

Roy
 
My old 41 is the same way, it's what you get with the bottom of the line model, it's not been a problem in the 25 yrs I've had the saw.


It's almost like, when they designed the cover, they did so without considering the thickness of the bar. Without the bar, it fits nice and snug...and, I think the cover would be less floppy.

Like your saw, mine has a lot of miles on it (by the PO).
 
When I mount the bar, and tighten the bar nuts, the aft end of the clutch cover does not contact the case of the saw. This results in the clutch cover feeling kind of wobbly when the chain brake is engaged or disengaged.

I have a clutch cover from both a 36 and 136...they both show the pictured gap. Is this just the way these saws "are," or what?

Thanks,

RoyView attachment 647221
When I mount the bar, and tighten the bar nuts, the aft end of the clutch cover does not contact the case of the saw. This results in the clutch cover feeling kind of wobbly when the chain brake is engaged or disengaged.

I have a clutch cover from both a 36 and 136...they both show the pictured gap. Is this just the way these saws "are," or what?

Thanks,

RoyView attachment 647221
What does that gap look like with the drum/sprocket removed and the bar mounted and tightened ?
 
OK take a look at this picture. See the tab on the top left? It should fit a corresponding slot. If your cover is without the tab or the tab is left outside the slot you will have gaposis. BTW you can buy this one, working chain brake and all, for $18. Anybody that wants it is welcome to it. Mike36 cover.jpg
 
What does that gap look like with the drum/sprocket removed and the bar mounted and tightened ?

OK. I won't get to it until next week...probably.

OK take a look at this picture. See the tab on the top left? It should fit a corresponding slot. If your cover is without the tab or the tab is left outside the slot you will have gaposis. BTW you can buy this one, working chain brake and all, for $18. Anybody that wants it is welcome to it. MikeView attachment 647465

Bing, bing, bing...we may have a winner.

No, I don't have the tab! Not on either the 36 or the 136 covers. I assume there never was a tab on the 36.

As far as the slot...I have two of those pieces, one with and one without the slot.

My deal is slightly complicated by the fact that the saw is a mix-master of 36 and 136 parts. The case is a 36; I am currently using the 136 cover which has been altered by me (and, maybe the PO).

Thanks, Mike.

The saw is actually, mostly, for my GF. While not having run it, she likes the feel/balance better than other alternatives we have. After I get it running, if she likes it in wood, I'll make an effort to make the whole thing as right as I can.

Roy
 
Husky 41 is the same saw. My tab was missing(broken off) on the original cover, which was otherwise screwed up.
I bought a new ebay one that came as " surplus" but was new from a sears warehouse in texas.
The tab makes it very hard to fit then slip over the bar studs. The new one with a tab still fits poorly just like yours.
The 36/41 was was manufactured at poulan. More detail if you look at the husky pix in my gallery
 
The tab makes it very hard to fit then slip over the bar studs.

I could picture this ^^^ being a problem. If I end up liking the saw, I will try to figure something out to firm up/stabilize the aft end of the cover. I just don't like the way it feels now.

If I come up with a solution, I will report back.
 
OK, to wrap this thread up. I made a fiberglass tab, and the cover feels much more "stable" and less floppy. The tab is 4 layers of fiberglass cloth (10 oz). It is part of a big glob-thing of fiberglass on the inside of the cover. I have found such big-glob things stick nicely to saw plastic (I also repair broken Stilh rear handles using this, more or less, methodP_20181212_145322.jpg P_20181212_145322.jpg P_20181212_145338.jpg ).
 
OK, to wrap this thread up. I made a fiberglass tab, and the cover feels much more "stable" and less floppy. The tab is 4 layers of fiberglass cloth (10 oz). It is part of a big glob-thing of fiberglass on the inside of the cover. I have found such big-glob things stick nicely to saw plastic (I also repair broken Stilh rear handles using this, more or less, methodView attachment 689846 View attachment 689846 View attachment 689847 ).
You have just became a "god" to these nuts here...
You need to start a thread with pics detailing your repairs......
 
Ha!

I am just too cheap to buy used OEM parts. For some reason, I hate those cracked rear handles...you know how they crack on the flat/bottom part of a Stihl handle. Maybe guys are dropping saws? I don't know how they get cracked...but, most used Stihls I've bought have cracked handles.
 
Here is a handle that I rednecked. The newer-looking part of the handle is 100% fiberglass...the underside shows my big-glob method of making sure the new part doesn't fall off.P_20181212_163758.jpg P_20181212_163823.jpg
 

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