Chain cutting to the left

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Cutters can be completely different lengths and still cut straight as no problem IMHO It's the depth gauge that's Important use a husky style gauge that sets them individually for each tooth. Jump on you tube buckin billy has proved it more than once. The gauges that sit on a bunch of cutters are useless.
This. Or a cheap digital angle finder to set the rakers to whatever you like for the timber and cutting you are doing.
 
For fun, I have been trying to use up an old Stihl triple hump .325 chain. Just for fun, I did the rakers, and left the many humps alone.
Talk about a worthless piece of ****!!!!!
I thought about dressing down all of the humps, but slapped on a good chisel chain and cut some wood instead!!!!
 
So the difference between me and Jethro is night and day, but both of us put saws to work. It's crazy, but what works for one guy is poison to the next. The key to this work is to keep at it, and experience will fix you up. Everything about tree work and chainsaws is taught this way and that, but the key is to just do it long enough and you'll make it work.
 
So the difference between me and Jethro is night and day, but both of us put saws to work. It's crazy, but what works for one guy is poison to the next. The key to this work is to keep at it, and experience will fix you up. Everything about tree work and chainsaws is taught this way and that, but the key is to just do it long enough and you'll make it work.

Dead right there keep doing it and enjoy it too, study it, learn all you can. If it's a chore then you'll rush over it and that's never good. Each cutter is it's own thing and different than the one before. Learn what's wrong with a cutter when you're done and get the next better. I'll go pull out an old chain I've filled and look at it n go eww I can do better here and here.

It feels good to hand file it's a skill and job satisfaction is huge when ya throw it in the log and it cuts well you get a buzz and a chain from the shop just doesn't give you that. Like dare I say taking care of a woman your not guna like paying a man for that or a machine lol
 
Kinda looks like you missed the working corner? Tough to see exactly but might need to tilt the file down on handle side or keep some more gullet to keep the file higher in the tooth. Looks like maybe different angles on the cutters as well on the top view photo. Let the masters point you in the right direction.
 
Yea kinda hard to see on round chisel. Yes the top plate angles vary so do the lengths the side plate angle is not bad. Those chains cut straight and self feed nicely yet the cutters are not all identical at all but that progressive gauge gives the same bite of wood. Could they cut faster yea probably but its semi chisel it never cuts properly fast
 
And don't listen to the clowns that state they cut 3 days 30 logs bucking firewood and there chain is still sharp all they are really saying is they don't even know what a sharp chainsaw chain is.
Aren't you from Australia ?
How do you know how long a chain will last in one particular area in Utah..in one particular activity with one particular species that you don't even know he's cutting.

people such as you on the internet that don't know what the f* they are talking about ..get people killed"!! Period! You can go north of Vancouver and cut the same species of Cottonwood and they will 'never' barber chair in all my experience. I could drive down some hours and be be killed in the same day trying to get away with doing the same thing. Yet You are in Australia calling people clowns?
Really buddy? Give your head a shake man. When it comes to the Physics of the felling.. well that's world wide and I'm pretty sure I make the top of an elite list but I have never gone off on here as to be some expert on cutting wood in an area I have not cut in. I am inexperienced as to how long a chain in Australia will last amoung how i would file it.

furthermore bubby.

You know what you did. I posted under a week ago?
Next time have some nuggets and quote me on the post instead of running your whessel mouth.

Per as the felling cuts on the butt of your avitar! Don't ever crack off behind
my back or my face rookie fool.
 
Well now, after Jamies far reaching explanations I see a chain with hammered tie straps where they ride on the bar, one side is badly mushroomed while the opposite side is in fairly good condition. This condition will cause a chain to ride in a sideways tipped over condition thus causing the chain to cut to one side. Discuss.
 
Aren't you from Australia ?
How do you know how long a chain will last in one particular area in Utah..in one particular activity with one particular species that you don't even know he's cutting.

people such as you on the internet that don't know what the f* they are talking about ..get people killed"!! Period! You can go north of Vancouver and cut the same species of Cottonwood and they will 'never' barber chair in all my experience. I could drive down some hours and be be killed in the same day trying to get away with doing the same thing. Yet You are in Australia calling people clowns?
Really buddy? Give your head a shake man. When it comes to the Physics of the felling.. well that's world wide and I'm pretty sure I make the top of an elite list but I have never gone off on here as to be some expert on cutting wood in an area I have not cut in. I am inexperienced as to how long a chain in Australia will last amoung how i would file it.

furthermore bubby.

You know what you did. I posted under a week ago?
Next time have some nuggets and quote me on the post instead of running your whessel mouth.

Per as the felling cuts on the butt of your avitar! Don't ever crack off behind
my back or my face rookie fool.
One reason I don't get into arguments on the web anymore, is you get whistle d**cks that stick the tip of their bar in the dirt after each cut, and say a chain won't stay sharp. I'm a 4th generation climber. When I was a kid my Dad would kick the snot out of anyone that touched his climbing saw. It was virtually never run on the ground, we had ground saws, and it would go a month between sharpenings, because all it ever cut was clean wood up in the tree. He would take the time and use a hatchet to chop all the bark off logs before cutting them on the ground, just a ring, not the whole log. I'm too lazy to do that. I'm retired and the only cutting I do is firewood. I'll hang a snatch block in a tree and pick the log up with a bull line on the truck, put a small log under it and let it down. Saws stay sharp a long time. I use mostly big saws with 404. 404 stays sharp longer than 3/8, and 3/8 stays sharp a little longer than 325. It was a big learning curve for me when I started milling. Milling oak and Hickory I'd only get 4-5 slabs and have to touch up the chain, just a couple strokes. In the Mid Atlantic area where there is little sand and dust, lots of grass to catch it, the bark in trees doesn't get too dirty with wind blown debris. If I was careful and kept the tip out of the dirt, and didn't find someones lost dog chain in the tree, a Super 1050 with 36" 404 would make it through the week and have to be touched up on the weekend. Dad always filed by hand, I still file by hand, and keeping the bar tip out of the dirt is a beg incentive, because sharpening a 36" 404 chain is a pain with arthritis and nerve damage in the hands. Sorry I didn't add any thing to help the OP. It's just that when I've been running saws commercially for almost 50 years, in mostly hardwoods, and know you can keep them sharp for a longer period than Harold Homeowner can. I understand that most homeowners don't know how, don't have the equipment, or the help to lift logs to keep them clean. But, just because they can't do it, doesn't mean it can't be done.
 
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