Help Me Build a Better MS660

[Freudianfloyd]

I'm sure I will get flamed for this, but let me explain...

My dad has a Stihl MS661C that he loves to brag about. Even though my little saws have saved him a few times, but I digress. Anyway, yesterday I pulled the trigger on an MS660 kit, partially because it was cheap, and partially because I want a big saw that will see light use.

But then the more I read about these saws, and the OEM parts people buy for them, I got to thinking....could this saw be built to have more power than the 661?

Obviously this is not going to be a Stihl. I know it isn't as reliable, isn't of the same quality, blah blah blah. but what it is is a large chainsaw I can build myself that if done right could be a useful tool.

So, for those of you saw experts, what can I do to make more power with this saw kit? And has anybody compiled a list of parts and maybe part numbers to swap out for OEM just to make it more reliable?

Again, I am completely understanding that this is NOT A STIHL.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have to ask one simple question. Why on earth would you want to rebuild an MS660 so that it has more power than a stock MS661? I say that you should keep your money in the bank and use your MS660 the same way that I use mine -- whenever I need a saw that can pull a 36" bar and deliver as expected or a 30" bar that cuts like a bandit without breathing hard.

 

[Freudianfloyd]

I have to ask one simple question. Why on earth would you want to rebuild an MS660 so that it has more power than a stock MS661? I say that you should keep your money in the bank and use your MS660 the same way that I use mine -- whenever I need a saw that can pull a 36" bar and deliver as expected or a 30" bar that cuts like a bandit without breathing hard.

To be fair, it's not a real MS660, but a Farmertec knock off. If out if the box they can run with the big dogs, then I might not need to do anything, but if I can build a 661 killer for a few hundred dollars, than why not?

 

[cus_deluxe]

you have to have oem wrist pin bearing and clips. id probably go for a meteor piston as well, though the one in my ft660 is still fine. also, make sure to flush bearings well, as they come installed in case already and many have observed that they have “debris” in them. im not a pro saw builder by any means, but ive done enough to know that youre gonna need machine work and port work on cylinder to be in the same ballpark as a stock 661, assuming the cylinder is decent to start with. seems like 660s always end up with a ton of intake duration after machine work required to get exhaust port height down. many times builders will fill intake port with epoxy to decrease intake duration. helps with throttle response and fuel consumption. but thats all meaningless until you get the cylinder and give it a good look over and are able to time it and see where things stand.

 

[Freudianfloyd]

Do you still have time to back out on the deal? I have been pretty disappointed in any metal AM items I have ever bought to the point I do not buy them anymore. The plastic can be okay, but sometimes you have to do a lot of work on it to get it to work. Since you have bought it I would want an OEM carburetor as if you get it together air tight at least it will run right.

I have heard some people having issues, but I have seen several people loving these saws. For the small investment, it's worth giving a try to me.

 

[drf255]

In short, No.

Trying to make that kit run as well as an OEM 661 will cost you more than buying a new 661.

 

[EngineNoO9]

The test I saw the blue version of the saw was slightly slower than a stock 660. Not bad though. However at about a quarter or less of the price that's where you get the satisfaction. However, reliability has been a concern so real long term no clue where that puts you. I've seen some good deals on used big saws that I'd save my money for vs the kit saw.

 

[jltrent]

The test I saw the blue version of the saw was slightly slower than a stock 660. Not bad though. However at about a quarter or less of the price that's where you get the satisfaction. However, reliability has been a concern so real long term no clue where that puts you. I've seen some good deals on used big saws that I'd save my money for vs the kit saw.

I have seen some mostly OEM 660s sell or OEM in all the right places sell around $500 or less recently. I would take a chance on one of those. The biggest worry IMO, is the lower end solid.

 

[drf255]

I have seen some mostly OEM 660s sell or OEM in all the right places sell around $500 recently.

Exactly. Buy one, open the muffler a bit and be done.

 

[Freudianfloyd]

The test I saw the blue version of the saw was slightly slower than a stock 660. Not bad though. However at about a quarter or less of the price that's where you get the satisfaction. However, reliability has been a concern so real long term no clue where that puts you. I've seen some good deals on used big saws that I'd save my money for vs the kit saw.

Honestly, I watch Marketplace, Craigslist, Letgo, Offer up, and yardsales constantly, and pro saws never pop up. If I ever saw a good deal on a big saw I would jump all over it. In the meantime, I figured the kit would be a fun toy.

 

[cuinrearview]

Honestly, I watch Marketplace, Craigslist, Letgo, Offer up, and yardsales constantly, and pro saws never pop up. If I ever saw a good deal on a big saw I would jump all over it. In the meantime, I figured the kit would be a fun toy.

Where is "my farm"?

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Right down the road from his farm.

 

[mobilemech13]

By the time you get all the updates to a farm tech saw, to be a reliable saw, you could buy a ms660 all oem fresh for $700. #160psi compression

 

[cuinrearview]

By the time you get all the updates to a farm tech saw, to be a reliable saw, you could buy a ms660 all oem fresh for $800

Or used, or ugly and freshened up with all new wear parts. If it's going to sit all the time...

 

[mobilemech13]

Or used, or ugly and freshened up with all new wear parts. If it's going to sit all the time...

All oem Stihl stuff is better than the Chinese blow up stuff. Why do you have to put OEM stuff in a garbage saw to make it last.

 

[cuinrearview]

All oem Stihl stuff is better than the Chinese blow up stuff. Why do you have to put OEM stuff in a garbage saw to make it last.

Because it's NEW

 

[Wood Doctor]

Because it's NEW

Or, it is no intention of the owner to use the saw very much, only on occasion. The saw may never see 200 hours in ten years.

 

[cuinrearview]

Or, it is no intention of the owner to use the saw very much, only on occasion. The saw may never see 200 hours in ten years.

Man, I'd hate to see what happens with the China stuff after sitting around. Even MORE of a reason to get old dirty OEM...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The way I see it, if I were your Dad, I would brag as well. He saved his money and invested it in a late model quality saw. He has the right to brag.
You bought a cheap as chips copy of yesteryears technology, that can never be cheaply (few hundred dollars) rebuilt to match the 661.
If you want to win some kind of pissing contest with your Father, buy an OEM 660- a good near new one and have it worked on by a saw builder with a good reputation of reworking these power heads, then you might stand a slim chance of skimming seconds off the 661 cutting the same log.

You bought a cheap kit for a low use big saw- build it and use it for what it is, a cheap version of an old design that is down on power of the original and will be made from parts of lesser quality, but at least you get to brag about how you built it and didn't just walk in and buy it off the dealers shelf.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Man, I'd hate to see what happens with the China stuff after sitting around. Even MORE of a reason to get old dirty OEM...

Some tree removal companies might not even use a 660 for 20 hours in a year. But, they need one for an occasional biggie to pull a 36" bar. So, paying $1,200 for a saw that sits on the shelf and rarely gets started seems a bit senseless. Just MHO.