365 special never had a plastic boot clamp.
I've built/rebuilt 30 or more 365/371/372I’m a big boy and can handle whatever is thrown my way. It’s just irks me when someone tries to make it sound like you’re a liar or that you’re bragging when neither is true. I’m not afraid to stand up for myself.
i also am not a dummy when it comes to engines and understand the risks to water penetration. From the get-go I new I’d be tearing this saw completely down so water intrusion wasn’t a concern of mine. I did end up using a heavy degreaser,brushes, rags, and the air compressor to clean it up.
I ordered a new 50mm kit fir it as well as new intake manifold, carb kit, muffler, fuel lines, filter, and seems like something else. All the parts are due in by Friday so hopefully I’ll have a great running saw by Saturday.
I do appreciate the feedback that I’ve received here. We all obviously share the same common interest.
Best get a dial caliper and some lead.I don’t have any way to measure the squish. Will i be safe with a base gasket delete with this new 50mm p&c? Im also planning to try my first port job on this new cylinder. Any words of wisdom?
Thanks! I’m definitely doing the MM on the nee muffler. It made a day:night difference on my new 261cm.Best get a dial caliper and some lead.
They vary in squish from cylinder to cylinder oem also.
@huskihl can give you porty jobbie info.
A good muffler mod helps a stock saw more than anything.
Know anyone that reloads his own ammo? They will most likely have a dial caliper.I don’t have any way to measure the squish. Will i be safe with a base gasket delete with this new 50mm p&c? Im also planning to try my first port job on this new cylinder. Any words of wisdom?
Have you ever had one of those pop-rivet ends drop off?Here's the style i go with
There's a variety of choices.
yeah I would worry about the same thing...I could see it getting erosion of the rivet material due to heat and that would cause the center of the rivet to work lose and possibly fall in the muffler itself....if he were to punch the center out after making it that would alleviate that concern though. that or if he uses the "waterproof" rivets, the back of them are sealed so the center cannot fall out.Have you ever had one of those pop-rivet ends drop off?
Internet pic not mine.Have you ever had one of those pop-rivet ends drop off?
Just me but I'd run it for awhile to make sure there's
No issue's oil pump,clutch,coil etc.
With just a muff mod a 372 is a strong saw.
I ran them stock for 16 year's 24" usually.
The porters can get the comp up
From 150s stock to 190+
My ported 372s are 200+
But require machining the base and squish
That's why i had zoo city saws do it.
I'm not set up to machine cylinders
And they have specific porting tool's
For the transfers.
They pricey those tools are
So for 2-300 i had a few of mine ported.
A well ported 372 is industry standard in these parts
Loggers and pros.
Just me but I'd run it for awhile to make sure there's
No issue's oil pump,clutch,coil etc.
With just a muff mod a 372 is a strong saw.
I ran them stock for 16 year's 24" usually.
The porters can get the comp up
From 150s stock to 190+
My ported 372s are 200+
But require machining the base and squish
That's why i had zoo city saws do it.
I'm not set up to machine cylinders
And they have specific porting tool's
For the transfers.
They pricey those tools are
So for 2-300 i had a few of mine ported.
A well ported 372 is industry standard in these parts
Loggers and pros.
Here's the style i go with
There's a variety of choices.
Enter your email address to join: