Husqvarna 365

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
yeah I would worry about the same thing...I could see it getting erosion of the rivet material due to heat and that would cause the center of the rivet to work lose and possibly fall in the muffler itself....if he were to punch the center out after making it that would alleviate that concern though. that or if he uses the "waterproof" rivets, the back of them are sealed so the center cannot fall out.
Use stainless steel rivets???
 
Use stainless steel rivets???
yeah if you have a riveter that can handle them... I use waterproof rivets on some machines I work on, they have the back enclosed to prevnet water leakage etc. SS if the rivet was designed right would work as well i guess...just the thought of aluminum rivets and how often the back works lose form vibration makes me leery. CZed said he uses tapping screws which would of course negate any worries i had though.
 
that’s a good design that will keep the exhaust off my hands. I can fab up a deflector like that and weld it. Although if I weld it on, I probably will leave out the screen since I wouldn’t be able to clean it. No need for the screen anyways for where I’m cuttin on my own land.
Ok, you inspired me to build another 372 for myself. Here is picture of state saw is in and muffler done today. Waiting for a porter on p/c.:yes: No rush build. :drinkingcoffee:IMG_20191025_123602189.jpg IMG_20191025_150212971.jpg IMG_20191025_132757904_BURST000_COVER.jpg
 
Who's doing the jug? XT or OE?
OE. I forget, bad short term memory. I will show it and give my opinion if they approve. If anyone can use a 362 p/c, take off on that saw, it's good. Always look for why person traded it in. Plugged air filter, could fill with gas and didn't leak. Muffler screen was halfway plugged. Hard to understand how people think cleaning is not ever needed.
 
Ok, you inspired me to build another 372 for myself. Here is picture of state saw is in and muffler done today. Waiting for a porter on p/c.:yes: No rush build. :drinkingcoffee:

lol i look forward to seeing the end results. I’ll probably weld my muff first thing when I get started tomorrow to give the paint time to dru. Need to get the carb soaking tonight for the rebuild tomorrow but man I’m exhausted. Just pulled a 13 hour work day and still got a 1.5 hour drive home from this jobsite.
I did pick up a digital caliper so today so i can figure out the squish.
 
Oh I was looking so forward to going home and having a couple of beers and relaxing. Just got word from the wife that she’s scheduled one more job for tonight. Ugh I’m beat!
 
I forgot to order an impulse line. Can I just use regular fuel line?
When you go to set your cylinder for last time, make sure to have your carb plate in place, attach intake boot, have impulse line in place with an angle cut in end so you can thread it through intake boot, then set cylinder on case. 362,365,371/372/375 series saws are outstanding IMO. Parts readily available at decent prices (not like Stihl crazy high), easy to work on and build. Good luck with your build.
 
When you go to set your cylinder for last time, make sure to have your carb plate in place, attach intake boot, have impulse line in place with an angle cut in end so you can thread it through intake boot, then set cylinder on case. 362,365,371/372/375 series saws are outstanding IMO. Parts readily available at decent prices (not like Stihl crazy high), easy to work on and build. Good luck with your build.

thanks Duce for the info! Will a regular gasket sealer be sufficient for the base gasket delete?
The only solder I was able to find yesterday was a non-lead solder. Hopefully it’s not too hard for the squish test.
 
My daughter’s boyfriend also has a old 550 sitting unused (it’s been well abused too). Although, I don’t recall seeing it say XP on it. I thought about asking him what he wants for it too. He doesn’t even cut wood or have anywhere to cut wood. My daughter bought him a new ms271 last Christmas and he’s never even used it once.
 
thanks Duce for the info! Will a regular gasket sealer be sufficient for the base gasket delete?
The only solder I was able to find yesterday was a non-lead solder. Hopefully it’s not too hard for the squish test.
I would use Motoseal, but others use Yamabond or Hondabond. Motorseal is made by Permatex and available at auto parts stores or others. I would be leery of older abused 550's, some had bearing and AT problems. Auto-tune saws are nice, but you may need a dealer with AT software to trouble shoot or just re-set. I rebuilt my 2018 550xp from case up, saw was used on a log wizzer and running saws at half throttle is hard on them.
 
thanks Duce for the info! Will a regular gasket sealer be sufficient for the base gasket delete?
The only solder I was able to find yesterday was a non-lead solder. Hopefully it’s not too hard for the squish test.
You want solder like one on left. Other is to hard to squish.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20191026_100408643.jpg
    IMG_20191026_100408643.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 11
  • IMG_20191026_100351722.jpg
    IMG_20191026_100351722.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 8

Latest posts

Back
Top