Use stainless steel rivets???yeah I would worry about the same thing...I could see it getting erosion of the rivet material due to heat and that would cause the center of the rivet to work lose and possibly fall in the muffler itself....if he were to punch the center out after making it that would alleviate that concern though. that or if he uses the "waterproof" rivets, the back of them are sealed so the center cannot fall out.
yeah if you have a riveter that can handle them... I use waterproof rivets on some machines I work on, they have the back enclosed to prevnet water leakage etc. SS if the rivet was designed right would work as well i guess...just the thought of aluminum rivets and how often the back works lose form vibration makes me leery. CZed said he uses tapping screws which would of course negate any worries i had though.Use stainless steel rivets???
Ok, you inspired me to build another 372 for myself. Here is picture of state saw is in and muffler done today. Waiting for a porter on p/c. No rush build.that’s a good design that will keep the exhaust off my hands. I can fab up a deflector like that and weld it. Although if I weld it on, I probably will leave out the screen since I wouldn’t be able to clean it. No need for the screen anyways for where I’m cuttin on my own land.
Who's doing the jug? XT or OE?Ok, you inspired me to build another 372 for myself. Here is picture of state saw is in and muffler done today. Waiting for a porter on p/c. No rush build. View attachment 768406 View attachment 768407 View attachment 768408
OE. I forget, bad short term memory. I will show it and give my opinion if they approve. If anyone can use a 362 p/c, take off on that saw, it's good. Always look for why person traded it in. Plugged air filter, could fill with gas and didn't leak. Muffler screen was halfway plugged. Hard to understand how people think cleaning is not ever needed.Who's doing the jug? XT or OE?
Ok, you inspired me to build another 372 for myself. Here is picture of state saw is in and muffler done today. Waiting for a porter on p/c. No rush build.
Yes you can. Will take a 550 over a 346.I forgot to order an impulse line. Can I just use regular fuel line?
When you go to set your cylinder for last time, make sure to have your carb plate in place, attach intake boot, have impulse line in place with an angle cut in end so you can thread it through intake boot, then set cylinder on case. 362,365,371/372/375 series saws are outstanding IMO. Parts readily available at decent prices (not like Stihl crazy high), easy to work on and build. Good luck with your build.I forgot to order an impulse line. Can I just use regular fuel line?
When you go to set your cylinder for last time, make sure to have your carb plate in place, attach intake boot, have impulse line in place with an angle cut in end so you can thread it through intake boot, then set cylinder on case. 362,365,371/372/375 series saws are outstanding IMO. Parts readily available at decent prices (not like Stihl crazy high), easy to work on and build. Good luck with your build.
I would use Motoseal, but others use Yamabond or Hondabond. Motorseal is made by Permatex and available at auto parts stores or others. I would be leery of older abused 550's, some had bearing and AT problems. Auto-tune saws are nice, but you may need a dealer with AT software to trouble shoot or just re-set. I rebuilt my 2018 550xp from case up, saw was used on a log wizzer and running saws at half throttle is hard on them.thanks Duce for the info! Will a regular gasket sealer be sufficient for the base gasket delete?
The only solder I was able to find yesterday was a non-lead solder. Hopefully it’s not too hard for the squish test.
You want solder like one on left. Other is to hard to squish.thanks Duce for the info! Will a regular gasket sealer be sufficient for the base gasket delete?
The only solder I was able to find yesterday was a non-lead solder. Hopefully it’s not too hard for the squish test.
Enter your email address to join: