034 AV rebuild

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The crank has movement or the rod?....Sideways movement of the rod big end is normal.

The guy said the " crank moves a considerable amount on both sides " and says the problem (after rechecking) was " Crankshaft bearings ".
Nothing mentioned about the big end bearing of the conrod or its sideways movement.
 
That's not the way I took "on both sides"
The guy said the " crank moves a considerable amount on both sides " and says the problem (after rechecking) was " Crankshaft bearings ".
Nothing mentioned about the big end bearing of the conrod or its sideways movement.

I asked it as a question, not an answer!
 
Well, I went back and checked everything that could have caused it to be a problem again. Crankshaft bearings. I checked for play and my crank moves a considerable amount on both sides. So the piston was probably rocking pretty good in the cylinder.
Well, I went back and checked everything that could have caused it to be a problem again. Crankshaft bearings. I checked for play and my crank moves a considerable amount on both sides. So the piston was probably rocking pretty good in the cylinder.
The crank has movement or the rod?....Sideways movement of the rod big end is normal.
Oh my bad. So you were acknowledging the shot main bearings and asking if the rod bearing was done in too? I think I understand now.

It's a question, nothing more!
 
Back to a positive note. Here's my 034 AV that I rebuilt with an 036 top end about six years ago. I have put lots of hours on it, so this year I replaced the fuel and filters. It runs fine today:
Stihl 034--036.jpgThe bar is now a solid gray with all green letters rubbed off. Air filters are getting hard to find.
 
That's not the way I took "on both sides"
Yes sir. You questioning me made me go back and look to check things. Saved me from destroying a new top end. Thanks. At least I admit I was wrong. I’ve got to do a complete tear down and see what all I need now. I’ll inspect the crank and rod. May just trash everything. Seems like a solid saw with relatively low time on it though. I’m surprised at the bearings being gone. I really like the size of it.
 
Yes sir. You questioning me made me go back and look to check things. Saved me from destroying a new top end. Thanks. At least I admit I was wrong. I’ve got to do a complete tear down and see what all I need now. I’ll inspect the crank and rod. May just trash everything. Seems like a solid saw with relatively low time on it though. I’m surprised at the bearings being gone. I really like the size of it.
Good saw, worth rebuilding IMHO. I have a thing for the 1125 series Stihls. Good luck with it, if you decide to give it a go you will find a lot of resources on this site to walk you through. If you decide to move on I, or someone else, would give the old girl a good home.
 
Not in this neck of the woods... However you have to order BOTH halves separately... At least from Bryan.
One thing I discovered is that the typical 036 carb will work OK with the 034 air filter. I simply place a small chunk of foam rubber inside the lower carb opening in the end cover to keep it from being blocked up with sawdust.
 
One thing I discovered is that the typical 036 carb will work OK with the 034 air filter. I simply place a small chunk of foam rubber inside the lower carb opening in the end cover to keep it from being blocked up with sawdust.

Good to know.

If you can find a non-compensator carb just switch out covers.
 
91F74299-819F-44BF-918E-A9A86FA67D10.jpeg91F74299-819F-44BF-918E-A9A86FA67D10.jpeg3F2C7600-383F-4930-92A2-B2A26F8C3DBF.jpegFinally got time to split the cases on my saw. So glad I went back and checked this further on the advice of Culinrearview. This is what I found. The clutch side bearing fell apart and the flywheel had been moving so much it broke a few fins and wore the backside down. The case seems like it is still usable. So I’ll need a new flywheel, bearings and seals. Can someone give me advise on how to get the remaining bearing center piece off the crank? Thanks guys. Trying to get this saw going. I really liked it when it ran good.
 
My bottom end rod bearing has tight spots in it too. Maybe it’s best to just let it go.....,
 
Whole rod looks good, crank looks good. I need to inspect the rod bearing area though for piece of mind. How do I safely knock the pin out of the bottom end?
When you ask about the “top end” I assumed you are asking about the top end of the rod and not the p and c.... cause it’s shot out. Been rocking for a while like a washing machine spinning a load of towels apparently. Don’t know why I didn’t notice it. It ran good until I started having trouble when it got hot a couple months ago. Then last time I needed it, it would shut down on me. Frustrated with it, I ordered a CS 590 which will be in today. But this was my dear Uncles saw who I loved very much and taught me everything I know about fixing things. I’m usually pretty proficient and am sure I can get this running, but I want it “right”.
 
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