McCulloch Chain Saws

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I re-discovered a PM6 I got last summer that I shelved it and immediately forgot about. It has a good, clean p/c so I've decided to tear into it and try to get it running but I need some help. The recoil pulley is cracked so the metal ring that grabs the pawls just spins freely in the plastic casing. Is there a tried and true way to fix this, a stronger replacement I should look for, or should I just jbweld the heck out of it? Also, what goes in the holes in the front of the clutch cover and is the bar/chain 1/4 inch or is it proprietary McCulloch chain? Please pardon the off-brands in the background, only one is mine and the rest help fund my Mac repairs.
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I re-discovered a PM6 I got last summer that I shelved it and immediately forgot about. It has a good, clean p/c so I've decided to tear into it and try to get it running but I need some help. The recoil pulley is cracked so the metal ring that grabs the pawls just spins freely in the plastic casing. Is there a tried and true way to fix this, a stronger replacement I should look for, or should I just jbweld the heck out of it? Also, what goes in the holes in the front of the clutch cover and is the bar/chain 1/4 inch or is it proprietary McCulloch chain? Please pardon the off-brands in the background, only one is mine and the rest help fund my Mac repairs.
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I've fixed a few of the recoil spools successfully with JB Weld and after a few years they are still holding. I rough up the plastic and metal parts with emery paper, clean with acetone (NOT alcohol), and press together with a coating of JB Weld, being careful to not have it ooze down into where the washer has to sit flat and hold it in place.
Also, this Ebay seller has NOS spools that have some hairline cracks in the plastic around the outside of the metal pawl. Every one of these spools I've ever seen have the cracks, but it does not seem to keep them from working. I actually bought one from this seller and other than the crack seems good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362555304545
I think those saws run regular 1/4 chain. And I don't think anything goes in the holes on the clutch cover based on working on Mini Macs.
 
I've fixed a few of the recoil spools successfully with JB Weld and after a few years they are still holding. I rough up the plastic and metal parts with emery paper, clean with acetone (NOT alcohol), and press together with a coating of JB Weld, being careful to not have it ooze down into where the washer has to sit flat and hold it in place.
Also, this Ebay seller has NOS spools that have some hairline cracks in the plastic around the outside of the metal pawl. Every one of these spools I've ever seen have the cracks, but it does not seem to keep them from working. I actually bought one from this seller and other than the crack seems good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362555304545
I think those saws run regular 1/4 chain. And I don't think anything goes in the holes on the clutch cover based on working on Mini Macs.
That's what I was hoping to hear, thanks! I saw those spools but as mine is only cracked and not broken I figured I'd try to fix mine. I actually got two pm6's and sold the other one, but not before I put the recoil with the intact pulley on the chassis my brother got to fire before the recoil began slipping. As it turns out, I ended up with both of the metal inserts so if worst came to worst I would have hired a machinist to make an aluminum pulley and installed the second insert in that.
 
I re-discovered a PM6 I got last summer that I shelved it and immediately forgot about. It has a good, clean p/c so I've decided to tear into it and try to get it running but I need some help. The recoil pulley is cracked so the metal ring that grabs the pawls just spins freely in the plastic casing. Is there a tried and true way to fix this, a stronger replacement I should look for, or should I just jbweld the heck out of it? Also, what goes in the holes in the front of the clutch cover and is the bar/chain 1/4 inch or is it proprietary McCulloch chain? Please pardon the off-brands in the background, only one is mine and the rest help fund my Mac repairs.
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If you have a spare mini mac and want to experiment a bit, this might give you some ideas.
I don't know if this guy is on here, but he does swap and modify the recoil of a Mini Mac 35 to fit a Power Mac 6.
As to how durable it is, I have no idea, but it doesn't seem like it could fail that badly*.

If you want to, skip ahead to about 22:36 for the recoil bit.



Maybe someone can come in and correct me, but I'm thinking that any mini mac recoil and drum will work in the same way as this one. It would just need to be modified, like in the video.

*My only gripe is the starter drum ratchets, I really don't trust them. As you've seen they can sometimes come off (possibly when the saw is running and injure you) and must be JB welded back on. The power and mini macs that have this style drum, will have this problem from time to time or just fail. While the plastic starter drums seemed to be a bit more reliable.
I think the JBweld trick is more of a preventive measure, or when the drum isn't that bad. But if a drum is real bad off or shattered, it's not worth taking a risk with it.

Here is the link to what MacAttack did with the JBweld, he explains it in detail in this post:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/favorite-saw-you-own.338285/page-7
 
Like the video showed the only major difference in the recoils is the diameter of the post that the spool rides on. In my case, I will need to drill / ream out the center of the NOS PM 6 spool that i acquired.

That said....now Im wondering if I should save that spool in case I find a PM 6 and try fixing one of my more severely broken Mini Mac spools. I have an idea that i think would work, i just need to find some metal pipe in which the ID is nearly identical to the OD of the metal ratcheting ring.

I wish I had the foresight to take pictures during the repairs, but I have those JB Weld repaired spools in my MM 25 and 30 and both are holding strong.
 
Link
I also saw this, but I got the saw for less than $20 so I can't justify putting $100 into it unless all else fails.

What is $100? The link I shared is a NOS spool for $19, I bought one already.

You must be referring to the upgraded spool kit....who is paying $100 for that??
 
I installed the Lil Red Barn clutch drum and 3/8 8 pin sprocket on the Super 250 tonight and fitted it with this 28 inch Mac bar and chain. Hopefully I can find time to run it a bit this weekend.
I also took the DA to the Homelite bar I put on the PM55 and stripped the lettering off. Looks less out of place now.
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Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
Dan - If your metal insert simply came loose, you can make a reinforcing ring to fit over the plastic, use JB Weld to adhere the insert to the plastic, and add a couple of set screws through the ring (I used 6-32x3/8 set screws) to secure the whole thing together. If you need a visual, I can take some photos of ones that I reinforced that way.

The later Mini Mac models had a one piece plastic starter pulley but you were supposed to change the starter pawls to an upgraded plastic pawl. I am sure you could use the plastic starter pulley (with a suitable bushing) and the steel starter pawls on the PM6 for a while but eventually the dogs on the pulley would be damaged.

Earlier saws without the brake in the clutch cover did not have those holes in the clutch cover. I think they may have been provided for an alternative spike but I don't know for sure.

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The PM6 uses the same clutch and drum as found on many of the Mini Mac models so you have the option of 1/4 or 3/8LP chain depending on the bar you have.

Mark
 

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Well, I jbwelded the ring in this morning so we’ll find out if it works relatively soon. I also drug out my Mac 130 to examine the recoil and ended up re-spooling the recoil rope and I got it to pop by pouring some of the old fuel that was in the tank down the carb but that was as far as I got. Here’s a pic of it re-assembled it though.
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Well, I jbwelded the ring in this morning so we’ll find out if it works relatively soon. I also drug out my Mac 130 to examine the recoil and ended up re-spooling the recoil rope and I got it to pop by pouring some of the old fuel that was in the tank down the carb but that was as far as I got. Here’s a pic of it re-assembled it though.
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Looks good!

It would be cool if I find one of those locally one of these days, since I have a MM 6, 25, 30, 35, and an SP 40, it would round out my collection of small Macs that people love to hate, haha.
 
The PM6 is a totally different saw from the Mini Mac models. The only real problem area is the fuel fitting between the tank and the carburetor.

Mark
I think I have one of those impossible to find fuel lines:

Just in case I come across a PM6! I recall the engines are quite different from a Mini Mac.
 

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Opinions please gang,

The last PM800 I bought has started seaping gas on the tank seam. Should I try and separate the tank halfs and reseal? Or Red Kote the tank inside whole? I have had 50/50 success separating the tanks on the 82CC saws. Never tried Red Kote but have read good things here. Thanks All.
 
Opinions please gang,

The last PM800 I bought has started seaping gas on the tank seam. Should I try and separate the tank halfs and reseal? Or Red Kote the tank inside whole? I have had 50/50 success separating the tanks on the 82CC saws. Never tried Red Kote but have read good things here. Thanks All.
Red Kote worked well for me. Incase you do, plug the fuel line pass through hole and the fill hole so you don't get that stuff in there. It dries like a rock. I used some rubber stoppers.
You don't have the turn it upside down as you're only trying to seal the seam.
 
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